Rust treatments and body fillers

[Bronco1]

I'm working on a 96 Bronco that has some rust issues (Surprise!). I was reading in another thread about using POR-15 but was wondering if fiberglass or bonds will properly adhere to metal that has been treated with the product. I was reminded of something from my high school days (back before the discovery of fire) a buddy had prepped his car with paint primer instead of metal primer, then applied bondo. He sanded his repair, primed and painted and was proudly showing off his repair when "someone" tapped it with his knuckle and the piece of bondo popped off. Needless to say, I don't want to repeat his situation. He chased me for two blocks

 

[pandus13]

user Trav would be one of the most knowledgeable in body working/painting/matching (Pro level)
and is the injectors guru also...

 

[old1]

I am not sure what "paint primer" is. Primer for house paint?

 

[Bronco1]

Originally Posted By: old1
I am not sure what "paint primer" is. Primer for house paint?


Same idea, rustoleum and lots of others make primer for auto paint.

 

[Trav]

Tell us about your experience and what equipment you have access to, can you use a mig welder or oxy acetylene torch? Compressor, angle grinder, sanders, etc.
You can fix rut but not by covering it over with fiberglass or stuffing it with rags or fiberglass and bondo, those measures are so so temporary they are not worth doing.

Cutting out the bad metal up to the good and replacing it with a metal patch then covering the weld seam and the rest of the repair with a skim coat of filler and rustproofing it from behind is the only sure way to cure it.
I have done repair that are over 10 years old on daily drivers that remain rust free today so it can be done, it takes patience and time but doesn't cost a lot of money in materials. Its mostly labor.

 

[Bronco1]

No experience welding. I'm a retired IT guy who picked this Bronco up to use for bad weather and back roads to the lakes. I did some minor body work back in the dark ages, mostly hammering stuff out in sand bags, skim coats of bondo sanding and painting. That was in a desert climate where rust wasn't an issue. I'm retired and have time to work on vehicles now. I mostly have hand tools and a few power tools. I'd be buying an angle grinder, sander and such. I don't have the knowledge or skills to weld patches or panels. I had seen some videos where they had ground away rust and treated areas with the rust treatment stuff that's supposed convert it to ferrite compounds and used short fiber fiberglass and bondo. So, from what you are saying that would be a waste of time and effort, Trav?

 

[Kestas]

I bought a sandblaster chiefly for these projects. There is nothing more healthy for such a repair than removing all traces of rust.

 

[Trav]

Yes total waste of time doing it that way, it will return in no time with a vengeance with even more damage as the bondo has a bad habit of trapping moisture that weeps in from behind.
If your interested in getting a mig welder there are some 120v units out there that wont cost a fortune and will get the job done, they are easy to learn and with a little practice you will have no trouble welding it up like a pro. You do not need 220v for sheet metal.

This welder with a gas bottle and regulator is a good unit made by Miller, the price of this is less than half of having one repair done by a shop and will last for years in the sort of use you will be doing. If you have the time and want to get into this I highly recommend you start off with a mig unit.
I can help you through the entire process with no trouble. Once you have done one you will be doing these repairs with confidence in no time.

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/93...CFY-KswodO88KJQ

The 140 cost a little more but includes regulator. Shop for best price.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/p...CFQ9LDQodsqkHFQ

You can get regulators online cheap enough and a small bottle locally, HF, or airgas or even a good used CO2 bottle.

 

[Bronco1]

Thanks Trav!