Spent a good part of the day trying to remove rust from frame/undercarriage. I promised myself this trucks innards will look brand new forever. Not a lot of rust yet but removing what it has ain't as easy as I thought. I tried a small sander and it went through paper real quick. I went out and bought wire wheels for a drill. Faster but still tedious. Got half of it done and painted with Rust Bullet (I've read mixed reviews on this). I plan to paint over that then do some kind of oil treatment.
Rust removal bites
- Thread starter stenerson
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I used Rust Bullet on my car, the rust just came right back a month or so later. It probably works better on frame rust than it does outer panel rust.
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
I used Rust Bullet on my car, the rust just came right back a month or so later. It probably works better on frame rust than it does outer panel rust.
I'm curious about how you applied it. Did you sand down to bare metal?
I used Rust Bullet on my car, the rust just came right back a month or so later. It probably works better on frame rust than it does outer panel rust.
I'm curious about how you applied it. Did you sand down to bare metal?
Originally Posted By: stenerson
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
I used Rust Bullet on my car, the rust just came right back a month or so later. It probably works better on frame rust than it does outer panel rust.
I'm curious about how you applied it. Did you sand down to bare metal?
Yes, it was sand blasted/sanded down to the bare metal then applied over with the rust bullet, then that was covered by bondo (as per the instructions with the rust bullet) then repainted. I'm guessing that there may have been minute holes in the metal from the sandblasting that allowed moisture to seep through. Either that, or it just doesn't work good on sheet metal.
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
I used Rust Bullet on my car, the rust just came right back a month or so later. It probably works better on frame rust than it does outer panel rust.
I'm curious about how you applied it. Did you sand down to bare metal?
Yes, it was sand blasted/sanded down to the bare metal then applied over with the rust bullet, then that was covered by bondo (as per the instructions with the rust bullet) then repainted. I'm guessing that there may have been minute holes in the metal from the sandblasting that allowed moisture to seep through. Either that, or it just doesn't work good on sheet metal.
Thanks. Hopefully combined with oil or spray it will work. Though it cracks me up all these products that supposedly attack or stop rust in their tracks. The instructions tell ya to sand to bare metal (removing all rust) first. So that would make it just a preventive undercoating.
Kestas
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That's why 30 years ago I moved all my efforts from rust abatement to rust prevention. It's more time-efficient.
Kestas
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You don't have to go through the rigor of removing all corrosion if you rustproof with a lanolin-based rustproofing agent, such as Fluid Film, Krown, or Texaco Rustproof Compound. This material will seep in around the rust, encapsulate it, and provide a barrier to further corrosion. It's not too late.
I use Eastwoods
They now have a single part aerosol spray on rust conveter, then prime with Rust Encapsulator and top coat with Chasis Black epoxy.
I have done the latter two on my Jeep, Durango and PT. Works awesome, funny having techs at the local Dodge store drool when I bring them in for state inspection. We use the calcium Chloride liquid up in Maine and it rots everything. I also spray eureka FLuid Film inside the frames, doors, hatch etc.
They now have a single part aerosol spray on rust conveter, then prime with Rust Encapsulator and top coat with Chasis Black epoxy.
I have done the latter two on my Jeep, Durango and PT. Works awesome, funny having techs at the local Dodge store drool when I bring them in for state inspection. We use the calcium Chloride liquid up in Maine and it rots everything. I also spray eureka FLuid Film inside the frames, doors, hatch etc.
Prevention, prevention, prevention. Once your vehicle has the cancerous rust you are pretty much screwed.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
You don't have to go through the rigor of removing all corrosion if you rustproof with a lanolin-based rustproofing agent, such as Fluid Film, Krown, or Texaco Rustproof Compound. This material will seep in around the rust, encapsulate it, and provide a barrier to further corrosion. It's not too late.
Thanks for the tip. Couldn't find any Texaco vendors but found a local fluid film vendor.
You don't have to go through the rigor of removing all corrosion if you rustproof with a lanolin-based rustproofing agent, such as Fluid Film, Krown, or Texaco Rustproof Compound. This material will seep in around the rust, encapsulate it, and provide a barrier to further corrosion. It's not too late.
Thanks for the tip. Couldn't find any Texaco vendors but found a local fluid film vendor.
Kestas
Staff member
Try looking for Texaco vendors under "Chevron". You may luck out and get the same compound for cheaper. You may even order it from out-of-state. Each vendor has their own pricing structure.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
You don't have to go through the rigor of removing all corrosion if you rustproof with a lanolin-based rustproofing agent, such as Fluid Film, Krown, or Texaco Rustproof Compound. This material will seep in around the rust, encapsulate it, and provide a barrier to further corrosion. It's not too late.
How does this hold up on bare, semi corroded 1.5 year old truck frame? Do you do it once per year?
You don't have to go through the rigor of removing all corrosion if you rustproof with a lanolin-based rustproofing agent, such as Fluid Film, Krown, or Texaco Rustproof Compound. This material will seep in around the rust, encapsulate it, and provide a barrier to further corrosion. It's not too late.
How does this hold up on bare, semi corroded 1.5 year old truck frame? Do you do it once per year?
Kestas
Staff member
That depends on how thick it's laid on. Some people do it every year. I just inspected my 19-year-old winter car, and it's still okay after three years. I laid it on thick!
Can it be done with a paint brush?
I am trying to source this product in Canada without much luck. Not sure if a Krown dealer would sell the product only. I guess I could say I have an immovable piece of equipment that I want to apply it to.
I am trying to source this product in Canada without much luck. Not sure if a Krown dealer would sell the product only. I guess I could say I have an immovable piece of equipment that I want to apply it to.
Fluid Film is generally available at John Deere dealers. Both Krown and Rust Check are Canadian companies. Google them for dlr locations and home office addresses.
All three of these have the product available in aerosole cans.
BTW Amsoil also has a very good metal protectant product available.
All three of these have the product available in aerosole cans.
BTW Amsoil also has a very good metal protectant product available.
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Kestas
Staff member
The compound has a consistency of grease, and is designed to be cut with mineral spirits, which enables it to be thin enough to spray and to seep into cracks and pores. After spray application the mineral spirits would flash off after a day or so. You can use a paintbrush, but it won't flow into the nooks and crannies where rustproofing is truly needed.
Before I found a dealer for the compound, I used to bring a couple coffee cans and buy some from the local shops. Of course they charged whatever they felt like charging.
Before I found a dealer for the compound, I used to bring a couple coffee cans and buy some from the local shops. Of course they charged whatever they felt like charging.
Kestas
Staff member
One gallon may work, but it would have to be sprayed thin. If anything, it'll be a good introduction to rustproofing. I started with gallons and have moved up to ¼ kegs.
If you want to seriously protect a pickup, including doors and any other blind cavities, a whole bucket could be used up for a thick layer of protection.
If you want to seriously protect a pickup, including doors and any other blind cavities, a whole bucket could be used up for a thick layer of protection.
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