Rust "Proofing" The Tacoma

Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
2,576
Location
Franklin County, PA
So as the nights and mornings around my parts of the North are getting cooler, it's a sure sign of Winter approaching. Along with that will bring the snow and the salt/brine solution they're using around these parts. So, I believe it is time to do something to help starve off the rust and corrosion on the truck. This truck has seen about 2/3 of a winter uncoated and I don't want to do that anymore. Tacoma's don't have the best track record with their frames and rust, so best to start now in trying to hold it off. In the never-ending quest for the best product I settled on a cosmoline-like product from CRC. I tried Fluid Film on my other truck and was not happy about the washing away in some areas. This product is easily obtainable from Amazon in a 6 pack.

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First I had to remove all skidplates, degrease, scrub, and pressure wash the underneath. This truck has been used in several bad snow storms, farm lanes, and several dirt roads, so it was dirty.

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After that was mostly dry, I started off with the easy (and dry) spots to do. Couple light coats seemed to yield a good looking result.

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Still have to drop the spare and do that area along with a couple more front suspension and differential parts. Overall I like how this product went on. It does have that crayon smell that late 90's and early VW's or Mercedes have, but nothing too obnoxious. Better smelling than Fluid Film that's for sure. Fluid Film is still being used for the spare tire chain and mechanism. It seems to get less salt/water spray so it works great in that area.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2002
Messages
9,060
Location
MI
Looks great!!!!! Are you doing all of the vulnerable pinch weld interior seams - i.e., doors, tailgate, rocker panels, etc.?

I worry about the "inside-out" rust as much or more than the exposed underbelly.
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And, don't forget - rust develops fastest in the summer during warmer temperatures. A post-winter cleaning, inspection, and touch up helps.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 1, 2007
Messages
3,107
Location
Central NY
Yeah those weld points are becoming an issue for me.

Need something clear since my treatment is yellow
 

Delta

Thread starter
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
2,576
Location
Franklin County, PA
Looks great!!!!! Are you doing all of the vulnerable pinch weld interior seams - i.e., doors, tailgate, rocker panels, etc.?

I worry about the "inside-out" rust as much or more than the exposed underbelly.
667-3630-52534.jpg


And, don't forget - rust develops fastest in the summer during warmer temperatures. A post-winter cleaning, inspection, and touch up helps.

Haven't thought about that yet honestly. Those parts on the Tacoma's seem to hold up pretty good, it's the frames that seem to suffer the most. I am looking to do a speaker upgrade so when I pull the door panels I could spray some in that area. Fluid Film would work in those pinch weld seams, I have enough to do that. Might look messy and ugly, but would be protected.
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
18,989
Location
NE,Ohio
There is no best product.. that RP 342 and CRC corrosion inhibitor are cosmoline based. There are advantages and disadvantages.

It dries to a "dry" finish and is great as long as you dont get any chipping action from rocks (or salt chunks etc).. for salt spray it holds up amazing.

Fluid film/woolwax will flow into any chips but get washed away easier and is messy.

Krown can damage seals and other issues if applied improperly* (not from personal experience)

I am interested in the new black woolwax although I'd imagine the brown color will turn black and gunky pretty fast.

The important part is dont use any sort of rubberized or asphalt based product which can actually make rusting worse.. other than that pretty much anything(any product) is better than nothing.

So that all being said I'm leaning towards parking it on a tarp up on 4 ramps and hitting it with half a dozen cans of fluidfilm followed by some woolwax in high spray areas.

The reviews most places around me have are abyssmal or I would seriously consider paying someone to do it.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
485
Location
Minnesota
I really like the Woolwax. I've shot both the clear and black. Stuff goes on easy, very little smell and stays on for a long time. Even when it's washed off a film seems to remain for continued protection.
 
Joined
Feb 18, 2011
Messages
8,068
Location
Hudson, NH
There is no best product.. that RP 342 and CRC corrosion inhibitor are cosmoline based. There are advantages and disadvantages.

It dries to a "dry" finish and is great as long as you dont get any chipping action from rocks (or salt chunks etc).. for salt spray it holds up amazing.

Fluid film/woolwax will flow into any chips but get washed away easier and is messy.

Krown can damage seals and other issues if applied improperly* (not from personal experience)

I am interested in the new black woolwax although I'd imagine the brown color will turn black and gunky pretty fast.

The important part is dont use any sort of rubberized or asphalt based product which can actually make rusting worse.. other than that pretty much anything(any product) is better than nothing.

So that all being said I'm leaning towards parking it on a tarp up on 4 ramps and hitting it with half a dozen cans of fluidfilm followed by some woolwax in high spray areas.

The reviews most places around me have are abyssmal or I would seriously consider paying someone to do it.
Great explanation. They sell woolwax in an aerosol. I wonder how much thicker that's going to be than fluid film aerosol.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2008
Messages
15,988
Location
Central NY
The aerosol fluid film isn't great. It doesn't stick to anything. Great for inside of a door, body panels, trunklid but I wouldn't run it underneath. I've been using kerosene / bar and chain oil the last few winters with pretty good success. That's what I'll be doing the underside of the nissan with this upcoming winter.
 
Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Messages
2,870
Location
SD
I like Corrosion Free. It is clear and odorless. No damage to rubber parts. It says to apply annually, but it seems to hold up for 2 years.
 
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