RUST Preventers

[OVERKILL]

Krown was founded by guys who used to work for Rust Check. It is regarded as a superior product by many.

I've used both. IMHO, Krown "sticks around" longer.

 

[jcwit]

Both should be touched up yearly for the best protection.

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: jcwit
RustChex is available in some parts of the U.S. Google it and check. Also If you happen to be in the southern Michigan area South Bend Indiana has a RustChex dealer.


I have considered RustChex in South Bend. It seems like when I googled Krown vs. Rust Check in the past, Krown was the hands down "anecdotal" favorite.

I have seen some wild claims: Rust Check contain more solvents (implied bad), Rust Check turns acidic???, etc..

Comments?


Yup! And Penzoil forms sludge!

 

[cjcride]

+1

 

[rcy]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
Both should be touched up yearly for the best protection.


Krown and Rust Check (here in Canada there's Rust Check, not Chex) are YEARLY applications. They're not touched up yearly, but fully re-applied.

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Both should be touched up yearly for the best protection.


Krown and Rust Check (here in Canada there's Rust Check, not Chex) are YEARLY applications. They're not touched up yearly, but fully re-applied.


OK I'll stand corrected on both counts! But we all knew what I was responding to.

 

[doitmyself]

You are forgiven. We know not to pay attention to people in N. Indiana anyway. It is a good place to be FROM....I know from experience!

I'm off to go see MSU whomp on Notre Dame right now.....if LUCK holds out. 40 yd. line seats.

Take care.

 

[jcwit]

Ya right, take a look at the cost of your no fault auto insurance! lol

I do like to visit No. Mich tho.

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Both should be touched up yearly for the best protection.


Krown and Rust Check (here in Canada there's Rust Check, not Chex) are YEARLY applications. They're not touched up yearly, but fully re-applied.


they charge you MUCH less after the first application.
possibly because of the drilling and plugs.

Why more people don't use rustcheck (or Krown)
I'll never know.

BTW there is a Rustcheck center in Ft Wayne Indiana done through Werner's garage

 

[wiswind]

I have used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.
It is a Paint.....that can be used as a primer or left as the "top coat".
It has held up for me.
For more serious rust......you could use the Eastwood Rust Conveter (kind of like the Extend?) and then spray the Encapsulator over that.
To buy Eastwood products, visit their website.
They also have a catalog that the send out.

 

[KrisZ]

I'm not sure about Rust Check applicators, but Krown charges you the same for the first treatment as any afterwards, also they lock you in that price as long as you own the car, you always pay the same.

 

[rslifkin]

My plan to get the Jeep through the Rochester winter is to buy a 2 gallon garden sprayer, and fill it 50/50 with WD-40 and Fluid Film. The reason for cutting it down is partly cost ($60 to fill it, rather than $80), and because fluid film alone is pretty thick, and I'm not sure I could spray it with one of those otherwise. I figure I'll get the Jeep washed (w/ underbody wash) and spray it down before the first snow, and probably another couple times during nice weather over the winter.

 

[sciphi]

I'd spray it once at the start of winter and let it go until the spring. Trapping salt under any rust preventative will be the worst for corrosion once the coating lets some water in. If you spray it once well, it'll be there all winter. Spring will allow you to rinse the salt off, and re-apply over the summer.

 

[Donald]

As a test, I sprayed the top of a round air filer cover (vehicle has an old TBI) with Amsoil HDMG which should protect the metal from rusting any more. I will let it dry and see what I think. The cover had more surface rust than paint. The Amsoil HDMG seemed to almost soak into the rusty areas and some needed a second spray.

I am looking for something I can spray on the frame. I would need to do this at my home after doing a pressure wash of the area I wanted to treat. Too many dirt roads on the way back from a car wash to make a undercarriage wash make sense.

I will post back when the stuff dries and I can see what I think.

 

[rslifkin]

I would only spray it right after a thorough underbody wash, and allowing it to dry for a few minutes, then spraying in the car wash parking lot. I wouldn't drive it between washing and spraying. Plus, I'd only do it if it was wearing off.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I would only spray it right after a thorough underbody wash, and allowing it to dry for a few minutes, then spraying in the car wash parking lot. I wouldn't drive it between washing and spraying. Plus, I'd only do it if it was wearing off.


Good idea, but they might not like you dripping the rust stuff on their parking lot. Also depending upon how long it takes to dry you might be sleeping in the parking lot, else road dirt would stick to the rust stuff that had not dried.

 

[Kestas]

Right away after washing??... I don't recommend it. Rustproofing right after washing will seal in the water that is still left behind in all the nooks and crannies. The place I used for rustproofing (before DIY) used to put heat lamps on the car for at least 24 hours before rustproofing! I always pick a hot dry day for rustproofing, ideally after a good dry spell. Driving after washing or rustproofing isn't that big a deal. rslifkin has a number of irrational fears.

 

[VNTS]

Eastwoods has about the best stuff

on new cars I buy, they come home and wash the unserside with some simple green and allow to dry.

Then paint the floors and all susepension with the Encapsulator and top coatwith chasis black. I now also apply their heavy duty anti rust on top of that. Interior panels ie doors, hatches etc I use fluid film.

On any used I do what you do and do the converter first then the encapsulator.

They just came out with a interior frame coating in aerosol. Has a penolic resin and zinc, has a nice hose and tip you thread in and spray to get 360 coverage inside the frame. They have some video of it. I just did the inside of the frame and crossmembers and rockers in my Durango as it it the only thing on it not protected. I Will also do my other cars with it before the snow flys.

Originally Posted By: wiswind
I have used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.
It is a Paint.....that can be used as a primer or left as the "top coat".
It has held up for me.
For more serious rust......you could use the Eastwood Rust Conveter (kind of like the Extend?) and then spray the Encapsulator over that.
To buy Eastwood products, visit their website.
They also have a catalog that the send out.

 

[rslifkin]

Fortunately, as far as drying, I'd just try to do it when the roads are pretty clean, it's less than 1/4 mile drive from the car wash back to the college parking lot. I'm not too worried about driving it right after and getting a little crud stuck to it.

Being able to do it right after washing is part of why I like the WD-40 idea. It displaces water when sprayed on, so it doesn't have to be 100% dry. Some other rustproofers are like that as well, but not all. I don't know that I'll end up needing to reapply anyway.

 

[Kestas]

It sounds like you don't have a lot of experience with rustproofing, or you don't keep your cars long. I have one car that has seen winter duty for 20 years. It's rustproofed every three years because it needs it. I use a Krown-type of rustproofing and lay it on thick. After three years, some of it sloughs off and leves the metal unprotected.

My experience spans beyond this one car. Over the 36 years I've owned and rustproofed cars, I've owned about four different winter cars in my family that have seen anywhere from 8 to 15 years salt duty. I can tell you that nothing lasts forever, even with diligent rustproofing.