rust neutrilization?

[Foch]

My 04 Saab has a rust spot on a rear fender well. An approx 2" x 2" area of paint bubbled and fell off leaving a bare metal rust area.

It looks like just surface rust at this point. What would be the best way to neutralize this rust until spring? The when the weather gets better, attempt a permanent fix...

Thanks, from the Maine rust belt...

 

[2cool]

I have tried Rust Bullet, and if properly applied, is long lasting and VERY tough.

 

[3311]

Ospho or Phospho?

 

[JHZR2]

Por 15 with the right surface prep.

 

[joaks]

If you want something temporary a neutralizer like ospho should work. There are a bunch of products like this that do the same thing

POR 15 or rust bullet you may need to remove for your permanent repair and they may not remove easily. If you will cut out the area later then one of these should be fine and will offer more protection than a neutralizer alone.

 

[Donald]

I would try naval jelly painted on with tiny brush. It will deal with the rust for now and will be fine for a few months until the weather is warm. Then POR 15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

Are you sure there is no rust on the back side of this metal?

One other note is that the products above that encapsulate rust (prevents air/moisture) from getting to the metal, do work well however they cannot or should not be sanded as it will disturb the encapsulation. Naval jelly can be sanded, but these products go over the treated rust/metal.

 

[mechtech2]

Naval jelly is great, but will not prevent more rust.
Seal it until you work on it properly when it gets warm out.
Then naval helly would be great, followed by surface prep, body filler[if any], primer, then paint.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Naval jelly is great, but will not prevent more rust.
Seal it until you work on it properly when it gets warm out.
Then naval helly would be great, followed by surface prep, body filler[if any], primer, then paint.


KrudCutter says their brand of naval jelly provides 18 months.

 

[chevys10]

Originally Posted By: 2cool
I have tried Rust Bullet, and if properly applied, is long lasting and VERY tough.


I have used Rust Bullet and found it not to work well but that might have been because of the prep. Took a needle scaler to my rusty Ranger wheels to get all the rust off then 2 coats of Rust Bullet. Rust is coming through the paint now.

 

[Challenger71]

I use VHT rust-converter. Excellent product.

 

[Donald]

The only single product that deals with rust and protects after is Extend but that is only for minor rust. When its more than minor you need to deal with the rust with one product and protection/prevention with another. And neither Extend nor any paint type of protection product will work when its cold out.

Try the naval jelly on a warm day. You have little to loose. Given warm weather is maybe 6 weeks away, I think the naval jelly will handle it.

 

[Trav]

If you are 100% sure its external only just put some waterproof grease on it for the rest of the winter.
In spring sand/bead blast the spot, fill the pitting if minor with a self etching primer/filler like Metal Loc, paint and clear.

If its in the rear of the panel also cutting it out, blasting the surrounding area and mig welding a piece in is the only way to properly repair.
You can get a small cheap spot blaster that will work for small areas even on a small portable compressor, but its too small for big jobs.