Running 5w-40 oil in B58

If your trips are short and you don't drive long enough to get the engine REALLY warm, and you don't run it hard, I'd run the 0W20 that has the other BMW approvals that your owner's manual states....because at less-than-really warmed-up temps, that oil is always going to be relatively thick. OTOH, if you get it good and hot, and at least periodically let-er-rip, a 0W40 with no Viscosity Index Improvers would be even better than a 5W40 that has VII's. You'll have to do the research, because I have no idea which ones have VII and which ones don't need them because of using base oil that provides such a VI spread. Also, BMW LL01, BMW LL04, and/or Porsche A40 approvals would provide some extra comfort. Without those, I'd change the oil every 5000 miles instead of the 10,000 that your owner's manual probably states. However, I don't know this engine nor its oil specs, nor do I claim to be an expert, but this logic is basically how I operate my vehicles.
 
Yet BMW had so many issues with the recommended 60 grade oil, for many years, who ever would have thought :ROFLMAO:. According to some here those engines should have been indestructible!
Those M3 V8 and M5 V10 engines had factory defects. Plus not a single owner of those cars actually babied them or used as a moderately driven daily. It was mostly weekend warrior or track car, and lived its life at the redline. Some owners also claim that bearing replacements were less common in vehicles where 0W40/5W40 was used instead of recommended 10W60. I'm sure that had to do with climate and usage, but unfortunately many just went by owners manual (10w60) and then wondered why their bearings spun on a cold start in cold months.
 
LL-04 is diesel weight oil tho no?

LL-04 is intended for both gasoline and diesel engines. While LL-04 is mandatory
for diesels equipped with a DPF, which why LL-04 was introduced simultaneously
with DPFs, there's more choice for most gasoline engines (LL-01, LL-01 FE, LL-04,
perhaps LL-12, LL-17 FE etc for newer cars).


If your trips are short and you don't drive long enough to get the engine REALLY warm, and you don't run it hard, I'd run the 0W20 that has the other BMW approvals that your owner's manual states....because at less-than-really warmed-up temps, that oil is always going to be relatively thick.

Short tripping goes hand in hand with fuel dilution which results in thinner oil and
a thinner lubricating film. That doesn't suggest using a thinner oil.


OTOH, if you get it good and hot, and at least periodically let-er-rip, a 0W40 with no Viscosity Index Improvers would be even better than a 5W40 that has VII's. You'll have to do the research, because I have no idea which ones have VII and which ones don't need them because of using base oil that provides such a VI spread.

The reason you have no idea which 0W-40 have no VII is simple: There are no 0W-40
with zero VII existing.
.
 
LL-04 is intended for both gasoline and diesel engines. While LL-04 is mandatory
for diesels equipped with a DPF, which why LL-04 was introduced simultaneously
with DPFs, there's more choice for most gasoline engines (LL-01, LL-01 FE, LL-04,
perhaps LL-12, LL-17 FE etc for newer cars).




Short tripping goes hand in hand with fuel dilution which results in thinner oil and
a thinner lubricating film. That doesn't suggest using a thinner oil.




The reason you have no idea which 0W-40 have no VII is simple: There are no 0W-40
with zero VII existing.
.
I think I'm just going to go with 5W-40. It's BMW LL-01 approved. Don't see how 5W-40 can harm the motor.
 
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I think I'm just going to go with 5W-40. It's BMW LL-01 approved. Don't see how 5W-40 can harm the motor.
It won’t but it is not necessary.
I know how you use your cars, 5W30 is better choice. Motul X-Clean+ 5W30 has HTHS 3.6cP which is same as for example Mobil1 0W40. Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 considering it is GTL oil probably has HTHS around 3.6cP if not higher.
Also, LL04 is basically heavy version of LL17FE 0W20. So, I would stick to LL04. By all means you can use LL01 too.

More importantly, make sure you use OE filter or OEM like MANN. Otherwise you might end up with stuck filter in OFH which is 14hrs job.
 
I recommend that you don't put an XW40 oil in that engine as the tolerances are tight. As has been recommended, an XW30 oil is the best solution. As you're in Chicago I recommend a fully synthetic 0W30 oil. An oil with either the LL01 or LL04 designation is likely your best bet. I just changed the oil in my M240i; put in 6.5l of Ravenol VMP 5W30 and a Mann filter. Be advised that some aftermarket filters have disintegrated in the oil filter housing. This requires the replacement of the housing. I always use an oil filter bought from the dealer or a Mann filter from FCPEuro.
 
I think I'm just going to go with 5W-40. It's BMW LL-01 approved. Don't see how 5W-40 can harm the motor.

A LL-01 approved 5W-40 is absolutely ok. Just don't expect more protection
from LL-01 instead of LL-04 and don't expect more protection from a 5W-40
than from a 5W-30. Many 5W-30 come with similar HTHS just like 0W/5W-40
and some 5W-30 even are made from thicker base oils (and with less VII) than
many if not very most 40s.


I recommend that you don't put an XW40 oil in that engine as the tolerances are tight.

Are you talking about 'tolerances' or 'clearances'?


As you're in Chicago I recommend a fully synthetic 0W30 oil. An oil with either the LL01 or LL04 designation is likely your best bet.

A 0W-30 won't meet either current LL-01 nor LL-04 unfortunately. 😙


I just changed the oil in my M240i; put in 6.5l of Ravenol VMP 5W30 and a Mann filter.

Excellent choice even though one of if not the most expensive LL-04 next
to REP and RUP currently available disregarding European dealership prices.


Be advised that some aftermarket filters have disintegrated in the oil filter housing. This requires the replacement of the housing. I always use an oil filter bought from the dealer or a Mann filter from FCPEuro.

Yes, that's pretty much the consensus.
.
 
I recommend that you don't put an XW40 oil in that engine as the tolerances are tight. As has been recommended, an XW30 oil is the best solution. As you're in Chicago I recommend a fully synthetic 0W30 oil. An oil with either the LL01 or LL04 designation is likely your best bet. I just changed the oil in my M240i; put in 6.5l of Ravenol VMP 5W30 and a Mann filter. Be advised that some aftermarket filters have disintegrated in the oil filter housing. This requires the replacement of the housing. I always use an oil filter bought from the dealer or a Mann filter from FCPEuro.
Please stop with the nonsense.
First of all, there is NO 0W30 that is LL01 and LL04.
Second, 5W40 that is LL01 or LL04 could be only 5% at MOST 10% thicker than LL01 or LL04 5W30.
Third, why the engine does not get damaged during a cold start if clearances are too tight?
Fourth, for 4,591 times, the grade is IRRELEVANT! Approvals matter!

You are using Ravenol which might have higher HTHS than most XW40 oils.
 
.
Ravenol VMP is 5W-30. . 🙃
But yes, it's thicker than most 5W-30, just like any LL-04 will
be thicker compared to the average American & Asian 5W-30.
.
 
Short tripping goes hand in hand with fuel dilution which results in thinner oil and
a thinner lubricating film. That doesn't suggest using a thinner oil.

.
And yet, short-tripping is a recipe for early changes. On those short trips, by definition, the oil doesn't get hot enough so it's always "thicker" than it would be at full operating temp. The early changes address the increased fuel dilution.
 
It really comes down to the old saying "as thin as possible, but as thick as necessary". 10w60 on the M cars was spec'ed assuming the operating parameters they would be used in would favor a thicker oil. 10w60 holds up well on a track, but it takes a heck of a long time to get up to temperature.

LL-01 is a good compromise given its success in other BMW inline-six engines with similar architecture.
 
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