Royal Purple Roughness?

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Do you drive this car like you stole it? In other words fast and furious.

Just curious seeing words K&N, Magnaflow Dual Cat-Back, 22mm Rear Sway Bar.

2008 Honda Accord Coupe V6
-K&N SRI w/ Heat Shield
-Magnaflow Dual Cat-Back
-Progress 22mm Rear Sway Bar
-Royal Purple SAE 5W-20

Make sure the K&N system is not letting in to much dirt.
 
I`d drain the current fill immediately,head over to Walmart,grab some Pennzoil conventional,refill(oil only,no additives),and carry on as usual. And on the K&N,just by what I`ve read on those things,I`d go back with oem.
 
jtaylor,

After reading your other postings I had thought that you didn't consider Royal Purple oil to be expensive. From my wallet it is very expensive and just use Mobil 1 5w30 as a standard.

I think you going way too crazy using synthetic oil like it was water out of a tap. Buy the "Ultra" if you want and just leave the engine alone. I believe you just need to get oil settle into the engine and don't expect spectacular results right away! I don't know anything about redline oil so I can't say anything about it but all you mentioned is quality so choose and keep one or two and save/keep it in your wallet.

My 08' Impala SS has cylinder deactivation also and it seems fine wether it's on conventional or synthetic. I'm using the ladder now and will keep it that way.

In addition unless you have an sludging issue with the engine stay away from the Sea Foam. It isn't necessary until it's broke.

Durango
 
thank you so much guys, especially NHHEMI and d00df00d. I bought the car brand new, I am the first owner, and it has 15k miles on it, I've only run the seafoam for about 60-70miles to clean out the gunk before I change the oil. I am leaving in ten minutes to pick up the new oil and filter.
 
Glad to hear you're changing the oil today.

I still don't understand how there would be any gunk in a 2008 Honda motor though, assuming oil changes have been performed in reasonable intervals.
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Let us know what oil and filter you end up using.
 
The MSDS for SeaFoam lists 10-20% isopropyl alcohol (Rubbing alcohol). That doesn't sound like 100% petroleum to me.
 
Originally Posted By: GMorg
The MSDS for SeaFoam lists 10-20% isopropyl alcohol (Rubbing alcohol). That doesn't sound like 100% petroleum to me.


Isnt that made up of 90% water.....Like I said watered down. Nothing better then a little 2W-10
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Originally Posted By: D Bone
It's gotta be Royal Purple's fault. As it usually is...........On here anyway.


In everyday life,the people who run RP dont have any issues,problems,but on BITOG,there's all kinds of issues!
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Run it and disregard the hatred towards this oil on here.
 
The Royal Purple crew apparently have their guard up and also have a unique case of selective interpretation.

The only hate I picked up on in this entire thread was towards Seafoam.
 
Is this a new Bimmer V8? Why aren't you using whatever oil they recommend? The signature says you drive a 08 Accord V6 but you talk about the sound of V8 M3. Regardless of what you have, it find it best to stick with Mobil 1, Valvoline, or Pennzoil.
 
i ended up going with pennzoil ultra 5w20 w/ a wix filter. sounds much smoother, feels much smoother, I think maybe i just ran the royal purple a little too hard maybe?
 
Originally Posted By: GMorg
The MSDS for SeaFoam lists 10-20% isopropyl alcohol (Rubbing alcohol). That doesn't sound like 100% petroleum to me.


http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment.html

Originally Posted By: Seafoamsales.com
SEA FOAM Motor Treatment is a 100% pure petroleum product that safely and effectively cleans internal fuel and oil system components, helping your gasoline or diesel engine run cleaner and more efficiently. SEA FOAM is an EPA-registered product, and will not harm engine components, seals, gaskets, catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

SEA FOAM liquefies gum and varnish deposits or internal engine contaminents, removing carbon deposits, freeing sticky valve lifters and rings curing rough idle, pinging and hesitation problems. By using SEA FOAM to eliminate varnish and carbon buildup, mechanics can more accurately diagnose mechanical problems that may exist. That is why Sea Foam has been so popular with professional mechanics for over 65 years.

As a fuel system additive, Sea Foam will clean fuel injectors, clean carbon, gum and varnish deposits, add lubricity to fuel, stabilize fuel for 2 years and control moisture.

As an oil system additive, Sea Foam controls moisture, gum, varnish and residue deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: biodiesel
The Royal Purple crew apparently have their guard up and also have a unique case of selective interpretation.


Wrong. Reread the title!
 
I'm suspicious of the honesty of the original poster. If I'm wrong, I apologize in advance. What's strange is the BMW M3 is not in his signature and he's using 5W-20 oil in it (it calls for 10W-60). What's the deal, jtaylor?
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
1st of all you have hurt NOTHING running the Seafoam in your oil. NOTHING!!!!!! It is 100% safe to do that. It is not a harsh solvent that is going to hurt your gaskets or seals. Yes, it is a type of solvent but it is 100% petroleum based and is 100% safe for use in the crankcase. OMG some people on this site just talk without a clue. I have run Seafoam in my vehicle's crankcases for YEARS for everything from a moisture remover, to freeing stuck lifters, to a flush in dirty engines. It has hurt NOTHING!

I actually use it before every OC in my current vehicle( 2008 5.7L HEMI Ram ). Just so happens that means it is added to RP 5W-20 like you. I do it because it helps remove moisture. The PCV system design on my vehicle stinks and leads to a lot of condensation in the crankcase. Even running it to full operating temp doesn't get it all out( winter anyway ). The Seafoam helps a lot with this issue for me.

Seafoam is an excellent product as is the RP oil. neither by themseleves being added should cause your engine to run rough. Actually, RP is probably the best oil I have ever used for making engines smoother as a rule. How many miles on this vehicle? What kind of maintenance was done on it prior to this fill of RP? Are you the original owner or did you get it used? Is it possible it was not maintaned well and has a lot of miles? If so maybe the RP dissolved a lot of crud in there and has overloaded the oil filter and effected oil flow which can make it feel like the engine is running rough.

About all I can think of. Neither the RP nor Seafoam should be causing a rough condition? I would suggest changing the oil and filter right away however. Not because you have caused harm with the Seafoam or because the RP is a bad oil but because it sounds like it is needed now. Check out the oil real good for any chunks and gobs of goo and compare the weight of the filter you take off( drain what oil you can )to the new one to see if the old filter is really heavy by comparison( which means it is loaded up! ). Try the Ultra you are interested in and see how it does. Sounds like a good plan.

If things still do not smooth out I would look for issues other than oil or additives.


lol, ok, RP with Seafoam, gotcha.

If RP is so great, why do you need to use Seafoam all the time?

Is Seafoam tested for seal compatibility, outside of the ocean?

It's widely known here that solvents, just like fuel, in the engine physically and chemically damages the oil permanently.

The SF you added has long boiled off, spreading any dissloved sludge around. with it.

I can't believe this junk is sold with a labeled use that is so bad for engines.
 
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment.html

Originally Posted By: Seafoamsales.com
SEA FOAM Motor Treatment is a 100% pure petroleum product that safely and effectively cleans internal fuel and oil system components, helping your gasoline or diesel engine run cleaner and more efficiently. SEA FOAM is an EPA-registered product, and will not harm engine components, seals, gaskets, catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

SEA FOAM liquefies gum and varnish deposits or internal engine contaminents, removing carbon deposits, freeing sticky valve lifters and rings curing rough idle, pinging and hesitation problems. By using SEA FOAM to eliminate varnish and carbon buildup, mechanics can more accurately diagnose mechanical problems that may exist. That is why Sea Foam has been so popular with professional mechanics for over 65 years.

As a fuel system additive, Sea Foam will clean fuel injectors, clean carbon, gum and varnish deposits, add lubricity to fuel, stabilize fuel for 2 years and control moisture.

As an oil system additive, Sea Foam controls moisture, gum, varnish and residue deposits.


A 65 year-old product in a new BMW?!?!

Maybe save the $10 and just add some salt water, it's about as good.

Oh wait, don't forget to add some pretty purple dye for extra Seahorsepower.

What happens to all the gum and sludge after it's "liquifies" them, because the Seafoam will boil off after reaching operating temp.

What does that stuff do tot he HT/HS, any reference matterial on that?

lol, how can you trust them to make an effective product if they can't even spell "contaminents"? They only had 65 years to figure that one out.

The best part is that Seafoam figured out exactly what all those stupid oil company engineers forgot to include in motor oil, harsh solvents.
 
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