I've been using up a case of RP grease over the past coupla years. I use a lot of grease on my farming equipment. I can't speak to any issues of lubrication... AFAICT it's doing OK in that regard. The issue is with temperature. If it's even moderately cold, it turns to ice cream and won't pump out of my (manual) grease guns. So, what I have to do is put the grease gun in front of a heater for about 15 minute and I then get about 5-10 minutes worth of happy greasing before it starts to congeal again. Then it's back to the heater. What a PITA when you are trying to get your equipment ready for the farming season. Pretty much any temp under about 40 and it's no-greaseamundo for me with this batch of RP grease.
Royal Purple Grease- Not Great
- Thread starter Jim Allen
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Amsoil has really good grease I've used on the drive shaft of my Toyota for years. If you're paying for top shelf grease I'd go Amsoil or Red Line.
No experience but I hear a lot of downside to RP products as a whole?
No experience but I hear a lot of downside to RP products as a whole?
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ColdCrank: I have some Amsoil grease but I haven't used it in a gun. I've had good, demonstrated, objective results from other RP products, engien oils, gear oils trans oils , assembly lube etc, but I can't recommend the grease.
V8man: I probably looked at the time but I will look again. Thanks for the reminder. Like I said, we're only talking 35-40F here and even the lowly StaLube pumps at that temp for Pete's sake!
V8man: I probably looked at the time but I will look again. Thanks for the reminder. Like I said, we're only talking 35-40F here and even the lowly StaLube pumps at that temp for Pete's sake!
I noticed that the RP grease has a very high Timken OK Load rating of 100. Most dual chassis/bearing greases are in the 50 to 70 range.
I mention this only because a grease FAQ at the Timken site says that too high of Timken EP rating "may" not be ideal for bearing use. But, they didn't elaborate on what is "too high" or what applications. Their auto chassis/bearing grease is 55.
Just a general observation about your grease, without much significance!
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/lubrication/Pages/faq.aspx
I mention this only because a grease FAQ at the Timken site says that too high of Timken EP rating "may" not be ideal for bearing use. But, they didn't elaborate on what is "too high" or what applications. Their auto chassis/bearing grease is 55.
Just a general observation about your grease, without much significance!
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/lubrication/Pages/faq.aspx
Jim, it could be you grease guns. I had several that wouldn't pump at all if there was any resistance. Bought an Alemite with 10,000 psi and it is awesome. Slightly less per stroke than others, but it always delivers the grease. Doesn't get too cold here, so I am not experienced in cold pumping problems.
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Jim, it could be you grease guns. I had several that wouldn't pump at all if there was any resistance. Bought an Alemite with 10,000 psi and it is awesome. Slightly less per stroke than others, but it always delivers the grease. Doesn't get too cold here, so I am not experienced in cold pumping problems.
Thanks. I'll look into that but I want to get a handle on the grease itself before I start throwing a bunch of money into new guns (one of which is new already). I've only had this trouble with RP grease.
Jim, it could be you grease guns. I had several that wouldn't pump at all if there was any resistance. Bought an Alemite with 10,000 psi and it is awesome. Slightly less per stroke than others, but it always delivers the grease. Doesn't get too cold here, so I am not experienced in cold pumping problems.
Thanks. I'll look into that but I want to get a handle on the grease itself before I start throwing a bunch of money into new guns (one of which is new already). I've only had this trouble with RP grease.
Jim, is there any indication that the grease lost some oil? I have had some other brands of grease do that and become "unpumpable".
I used that RP grease on some wheel bearings one time, but never tried putting it through a grease gun.
I used that RP grease on some wheel bearings one time, but never tried putting it through a grease gun.
we use RP in our mold vibrators and has.been excellent. This is per Besser spec.
Which RP grease? They show one consumer grease and several industrial greases.
For winter get the thinner NGLI #1 grease. It flows better both in the gun and in the bearings in cold weather.
How well the grease flows depends partly on the additives the maker puts into the grease. More tackifier makes it protect better in some applications (worse in others) and harder to pump.
For winter get the thinner NGLI #1 grease. It flows better both in the gun and in the bearings in cold weather.
How well the grease flows depends partly on the additives the maker puts into the grease. More tackifier makes it protect better in some applications (worse in others) and harder to pump.
Ken2: It's the consumer grease and thanks for the recommendations on the NGLI#1. The RP grease is NGLI#2. In practical terms, could that be the main contributor to my problem? Rob-Roy... there is no oil leakage from the tubes. When it comes time to lube up my new-to-me- 40 year old combine (only about 30,000 lube fittings or so) I'll try the RP again. It'll be warm by that time.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Ken2: It's the consumer grease and thanks for the recommendations on the NGLI#1. The RP grease is NGLI#2. In practical terms, could that be the main contributor to my problem? Rob-Roy... there is no oil leakage from the tubes. When it comes time to lube up my new-to-me- 40 year old combine (only about 30,000 lube fittings or so) I'll try the RP again. It'll be warm by that time.
Hi Jim, you should use NLGI-2 where necessary for the machine conditions and not change to NLGI-1 just because it will be easier to pump!
Exactly which RP grease is it that you are using ? (what's the grease's 3-digit product # code?)
Then I can shed some better light for you.
Ken2: It's the consumer grease and thanks for the recommendations on the NGLI#1. The RP grease is NGLI#2. In practical terms, could that be the main contributor to my problem? Rob-Roy... there is no oil leakage from the tubes. When it comes time to lube up my new-to-me- 40 year old combine (only about 30,000 lube fittings or so) I'll try the RP again. It'll be warm by that time.
Hi Jim, you should use NLGI-2 where necessary for the machine conditions and not change to NLGI-1 just because it will be easier to pump!
Exactly which RP grease is it that you are using ? (what's the grease's 3-digit product # code?)
Then I can shed some better light for you.
Update on this is that I contacted RP about it and spoke with Jim Morrissey in the technical service department there. He asked some of the same questions asked here and a few more. From that and other research it looks like at temps as low as I was working in, any NLGI-2 grease is on the borderline of being able to pump out of an ordinary grease gun. Some will and some won't. Some of what makes a good grease also makes it harder to pump. Maybe it's time to think about a powered gun.
Still, in the off chance that there is some aging issues with my batch, RP are sending me some more for comparison. Of course the cold is gone (at least I hope it is!) but I can compare consistencies at any temp. I still don't know about the grease 100 percent yet but the company handled my question in a classy way at least.
Still, in the off chance that there is some aging issues with my batch, RP are sending me some more for comparison. Of course the cold is gone (at least I hope it is!) but I can compare consistencies at any temp. I still don't know about the grease 100 percent yet but the company handled my question in a classy way at least.
Good info. Thanks for the update.
I agree that at that temp, most #2 greases will be hard to pump, if you ever need to compare greases, the low temperature torque test (ASTM 4693) is a pretty good indicator if the grease will still pump in the cold. For this test lower numbers are better, but if the grease tech data doesn't give it, then the grease probably sucks in the cold because this test is performed at -40C
I agree that at that temp, most #2 greases will be hard to pump, if you ever need to compare greases, the low temperature torque test (ASTM 4693) is a pretty good indicator if the grease will still pump in the cold. For this test lower numbers are better, but if the grease tech data doesn't give it, then the grease probably sucks in the cold because this test is performed at -40C
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
It's the Ultra Performance Grease. The part number of the box is 10059. The tubes are up at the barn so I don't know the 3 digit code... if that's where it's found.
RP is right and it is on the borderline... but the datasheet is a bit evasive in that it states that this grease is good for Cold Temperature use without showing proper ASTM test results! Nor do they mention what is the lowest outside temperature for easy pumping!
I still will not advise to shift from #2 to #1 or any lower consistency, UNLESS your operators manual (bearings lubrication section) specifically allows it.
What happens is that if you use #1 grease, in the bearing it will be worked up and churned, and thin out more than advisable by the bearing/motor/machine manufacturer.
Most likely this grease contains certain additives that make it harder to pump, and RP is the best source to confirm this.
If they confirm this, then check your grease gun for its pressure rating.
For such heavier to pump greases, use a grease gun with 8000 psi or higher rating.
Good Luck and please update with your final success!
It's the Ultra Performance Grease. The part number of the box is 10059. The tubes are up at the barn so I don't know the 3 digit code... if that's where it's found.
RP is right and it is on the borderline... but the datasheet is a bit evasive in that it states that this grease is good for Cold Temperature use without showing proper ASTM test results! Nor do they mention what is the lowest outside temperature for easy pumping!
I still will not advise to shift from #2 to #1 or any lower consistency, UNLESS your operators manual (bearings lubrication section) specifically allows it.
What happens is that if you use #1 grease, in the bearing it will be worked up and churned, and thin out more than advisable by the bearing/motor/machine manufacturer.
Most likely this grease contains certain additives that make it harder to pump, and RP is the best source to confirm this.
If they confirm this, then check your grease gun for its pressure rating.
For such heavier to pump greases, use a grease gun with 8000 psi or higher rating.
Good Luck and please update with your final success!
Well the new grease came and when I compare the new with the old at the current temps, they appear to be largely the same consistency. With that and all the research I did, it looks like I jumped the gun in starting the high pitched whining about the grease. Note to self: Do the research first! Grease is an area in which I have little experience or knowledge and like many things, it's a more "sticky" ( : < ) subject than it first appears. If I want to continue greasing in cold weather, it looks like I'll have to invest in a much better grease gun. Considering I now have a John Deere combine, with at least 33,000 zerk fittings, I would probably be well advised to get a powered unit. Here is yet another live and learn moment for me!
Jim, we used Lincoln cordless grease guns on the farm...it made greasing the big machines a much easier job.
Do the cordless ones literally push the grease up the tube with a worm gear or something? I have had fits trying to grease with synpower moly grease, it's like it's too tacky to be pushed up by the wimpy spring piston in my manual grease guns. I pop the top off and there is a big air cavity where no grease was pushed up to replace what I was pumping out.
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
Do the cordless ones literally push the grease up the tube with a worm gear or something? I have had fits trying to grease with synpower moly grease, it's like it's too tacky to be pushed up by the wimpy spring piston in my manual grease guns. I pop the top off and there is a big air cavity where no grease was pushed up to replace what I was pumping out.
Does that happen in all weather or just the extreme cold?
I use Valvoline Durablend in a $50 Alemite grease gun and have no problems.
Do the cordless ones literally push the grease up the tube with a worm gear or something? I have had fits trying to grease with synpower moly grease, it's like it's too tacky to be pushed up by the wimpy spring piston in my manual grease guns. I pop the top off and there is a big air cavity where no grease was pushed up to replace what I was pumping out.
Does that happen in all weather or just the extreme cold?
I use Valvoline Durablend in a $50 Alemite grease gun and have no problems.
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