Rotors warped in under 10k miles...what to do?

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exranger06

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A few months ago I replaced the front pads and rotors on my 92 Accord. The pads still had plenty of life left (less than 15k miles old) but the rotors were badly warped, so I replaced the pads and rotors. I used Brembo rotors from Napa, and Napa Adaptive One ceramic pads. Now less than 10k miles later the rotors are warped again. I spent extra on Brembos because they're supposed to have this awesome reputation and should've lasted a long time. Replacing rotors on this car is a huge PITA and I don't want to do it again anytime soon. Could it be the ceramic pads are too hard on the rotors? I'm considering switching to metallic pads. I'd rather replace pads a little more often than have to deal with rotors every time.

And before anyone suspects my driving style, it's about 85% highway with little braking. I didn't have this prblem 2 years ago and had no trouble getting lots of life out of rotors back then. My driving style hasn't changed since then, and if anything, my rotors should be lasting longer because of all the highway driving I do.

Any recommendations on rotors? Should I switch to metallic pads this time?
 
I avoid pads advertised as ceramic, never liked them. I would make sure the lug nuts a torqued equally every time the tires are removed.
 
I thought that ceramic pads were supposed to be easier on rotors?

When you measured your rotors for warp, how much were they out?
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I avoid pads advertised as ceramic, never liked them. I would make sure the lug nuts a torqued equally every time the tires are removed.


I prefer ceramic. The dust is lighter in color and the stopping power is good even when cold. They squeal a bit in the winter but I can tolerate that if it means better braking.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I thought that ceramic pads were supposed to be easier on rotors?

When you measured your rotors for warp, how much were they out?

I didn't measure them, I just have a bad vibration in the steering wheel every time I brake.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I thought that ceramic pads were supposed to be easier on rotors?


I've heard the opposite, which is why I avoid ceramic pads.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I would make sure the lug nuts a torqued equally every time the tires are removed.


Very important. Over tightening is the frequent cause of the 'warp'. You go back to 115 Newton meters or 85 pounds feet evenly, and the 'warp' may even disappear.
 
Go with whatever was OEM material.Some vehicles need the stopping power of metallic(minivans/SUVs/Police...etc),some dont need as much and were oem supplied as ceramic.I wouldnt try to think I knew more than million dollar manufacturers do when designing a vehicle.....so I always recommend sticking with whatever the manufacturer used to begin with....dust,noise or not.For example,a Grand Cherokee is well known for eating pads,imagine substituting ceramics for the OEM metallics....if you can even buy that material for it...you would have less stopping power and shorter pad life (and thats already scary as it is).
 
High priced name brand rotors don't mean jack squat anymore.
Cheap Chinese rotors are what I use, and they are often better - more mass and better finish.
But installer error is also a significant problem.
 
These rotors bolt onto the BACK of the hub. (Which is why I said they're a huge PITA to replace in my first post). The wheel mates to the hub face only. So I don't see how lug nut torque would affect it at all. I had torqued the wheels to 100 ft lbs anyway though.
 
My rotors warped in under 10k on my Saturn too!
frown.gif


I also bought Brembo rotors - never again!
mad.gif
 
you wheel nut torque will prob be 80 ft lbs, same as my '94?
I have always been told to NEVER exceed the rated torque.
 
Originally Posted By: stro_cruiser
you wheel nut torque will prob be 80 ft lbs, same as my '94?
I have always been told to NEVER exceed the rated torque.

Again, I don't see how it's relevant in this case...
 
Not the rotors, its the pads Try Akebono Pro Act Ceramics. They are not cheap ,but reasonable at AAP with coupon codes. Wheel torque and warping an issue on Hondas, so stick to specs and cross tighten. On second thought re-torque and see what happens.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: stro_cruiser
you wheel nut torque will prob be 80 ft lbs, same as my '94?
I have always been told to NEVER exceed the rated torque.

Again, I don't see how it's relevant in this case...


It is extremely relevant.

92 Honda are about the easiest cars to do a front brake job.

BTW - 80 ft/lbs is correct and it matters.

Exotic brands mean little. Slotted and drilled may actually be worse by decreasing mass. Standard $30 rotors from AZ, AA, Pep Boys, etc are fine. Stock Honda pad set is great.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: user52165


It is extremely relevant.

92 Honda are about the easiest cars to do a front brake job.

BTW - 80 ft/lbs is correct and it matters.

Exotic brands mean little. Slotted and drilled may actually be worse by decreasing mass. Standard $30 rotors from AZ, AA, Pep Boys, etc are fine. Stock Honda pad set is great.

Have you actually done a brake job on one of these cars? Removing the steering knuckles and having a shop press the bearings out of the knuckles just to get the rotors off is not what I consider to be an easy brake job.
 
OK guys. I hear so much on what causes rotors to warp. I have a friend who swears its because the rotors get wet in the rain when the rotors are hot. (Not!!)

You can believe what you want, however IMHO, here is why rotors warp.

When you are driving along, at a good speed, and a traffic light changes to red, what do you do? You slam on your brakes, right? OK, when you stop fast and hard, at a light, what do you do next? You sit there at the light, with your foot on the brake, hot pads on hot rotor. That rotor gets "heat soak". That is, the section of the rotor on the pad gets hotter than the rest of the rotor. When you start off again, that part of the rotor that had heat soak, is just very slightly warped because of the temperature difference. Do this often enough, and before you know it, the rotor warps enough that you can feel it when you brake. Having the rotors very hot in itself is not a problem, but having one section of a rotor much hotter than another section of the same rotor IS a problem.

Here is what I do. A pain, but I do it often. When I have to stop fast, while stopped, I either: (1) put car in neutral, and remove my foot from the brake,hot pad not pushing hard on hot rotor] or (2) once I stop, while still in gear, I allow the car to roll (very slightly) forward, very slowly, so the pads cover the whole rotor, being careful not to roll forward enough to get into the crosswalk or cross lanes.
I do this every HARD stop, and I've done it for years. Sometimes I put it in neutral even after easy stops, waiting at a light.
I NEVER GET WARPED ROTORS, and have not had warped rotors in over thirty years. (HOWEVER, my wife does not use my method, and her Lincoln gets warped rotors - no use trying to tell her what to do as that would only lead to an argument - I was born married).
 
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