Rotella vs Rotella T5 10w-30

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How does one interpret the ccs numbers when they are at different temps.?

The T6 is 6000 at -30C while the T5 is 6000 at -25C. So, I would think that the T6 flows better at low temps..
 
I've been stocking up on the T5. You can find it on sale for about the same price as the TP at regular price. Still have a fair bit of the TP on hand too, which I will use up in things like breaking in a diesel engine I've just rebuilt and for the small engines. Been cranking the hours on the small tractor this year, so I might reach the hours OCI this fall (about 6 months ahead of schedule), The T-5 is going in and it will be interesting to see if I can notice a difference in cold starting from the TP 10W30.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
How does one interpret the ccs numbers when they are at different temps.?

The T6 is 6000 at -30C while the T5 is 6000 at -25C. So, I would think that the T6 flows better at low temps..


You are correct. I don't know of a way to directly compare (e.g. what would the T6 be @ -25 rather than -30) but you know it's going to flow better. BUT if you graph them both on the Widman temp/viscosity calculator, they look more even (30 grade vs 40 grade accounting for the difference). IIRC he T5 flows better in those "cool" temps between a serious cold start and full warmup.
 
ok,
So I guess what you guys are really saying is, as far as the add pak there is no real diff. ?

it just comes down to cost per OCI, much like any other syn/dinno debate??

as far as temps i'm in PA so we don 't have a severe winter or summer.
 
I'm sure there's a significant difference in the add packs.

For one thing, the 5w-40 gets a HUGE slug of VII to make it spread so far, where the 10w30 needs far less. I believe that's one reason that T6 can tend to shear at times. All that VII has got to monopolize (or at least compromise) the ability to suspend other additive components in the oil. I would suspect that there are other differences as well. I've used the RTS (predecessor to T6) and been very pleased with it, but frankly I couldn't get the "value" out of it for my circumstances.

However, I wish people would quit fretting so much over inputs and focus on the outputs. VOAs mean far less than used oil analysis. I, for one, am to a point where I don't even look at virgin oil PDS anymore. Most all of today's oils perform admirably.

As for the slight difference in CCS ratings: how many times does it get down to -30C (-22F) in PA anyway? For guys in uber-cold temps, I can see the logic of having a full PAO syn. But that's not the case here, is it?

If you're so concerned about starting your tractor when it's cold, I can solve that problem for you for $35. Get a Battery Tender (or some other brand of electronic battery conditioner). I would take this over a block or pan heater any day of the week. Solid, strong cranking amps are what turn that compression-ignition engine over with enough voracity to start. I own 7 (seven) of these little devices and they are on every piece of incidental-use (non-daily) equipment I have. They will help your tractor start in winter, and they will help make your batteries last longer, especially those in semi-storage.

"it just comes down to cost per OCI, much like any other syn/dinno debate??"

EXACTLY!
 
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I've been trying to simplify oil purchasing, and have been switching everything over to T5. Putting 10w30 in our '92 Chev pickup (2k p/yr) and '04 PT (10k p/yr). The '79 Cadillac (2k p/yr) will be getting some 10w-40, as it does better with a heavier weight. I don't need a syn, and like the idea of a blend. I know I don't need a HDEO in the PT, but what the hey (OCI's every 5K).
 
the whole cold debate was among you guys, and frankly of no concern to me, although I guess this is the only diff. between the two other than the T5's ability to carry it's add pak further.I was asking about 10-30 only,
My concerns are a healthy dose of ZDDP, keeping my motor clean and free of sludge, keeping my seals in good shape and being on the heavy side of a 30wt as the 4.0's seem to work well with heavier oils, keeping my 4.0 quiet and smooth and the T5 seemingly does all of this very well. my OCI's will be the same no matter what roughly 4k with a P1 filter or WIX if they are on sale, I was just curious to know if the dinno will do this aswell as the T5 or not as good, either way it was a great deal and I got the bucket.
 
Originally Posted By: wsar10
the whole cold debate was among you guys, and frankly of no concern to me, although I guess this is the only diff. between the two other than the T5's ability to carry it's add pak further.I was asking about 10-30 only,
My concerns are a healthy dose of ZDDP, keeping my motor clean and free of sludge, keeping my seals in good shape and being on the heavy side of a 30wt as the 4.0's seem to work well with heavier oils, keeping my 4.0 quiet and smooth and the T5 seemingly does all of this very well. my OCI's will be the same no matter what roughly 4k with a P1 filter or WIX if they are on sale, I was just curious to know if the dinno will do this aswell as the T5 or not as good, either way it was a great deal and I got the bucket.


so you like the T5 for your 4.0L, what benefic are u getting out off T5, just want your though.
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: wsar10
the whole cold debate was among you guys, and frankly of no concern to me, although I guess this is the only diff. between the two other than the T5's ability to carry it's add pak further.I was asking about 10-30 only,
My concerns are a healthy dose of ZDDP, keeping my motor clean and free of sludge, keeping my seals in good shape and being on the heavy side of a 30wt as the 4.0's seem to work well with heavier oils, keeping my 4.0 quiet and smooth and the T5 seemingly does all of this very well. my OCI's will be the same no matter what roughly 4k with a P1 filter or WIX if they are on sale, I was just curious to know if the dinno will do this aswell as the T5 or not as good, either way it was a great deal and I got the bucket.


so you like the T5 for your 4.0L, what benefic are u getting out off T5, just want your though.

pretty well stated that above!
plus I have seen avg 1-1.5 mpg increase.

No used oil analysis yet for this oil in this jeep, but when the time comes I'll post it and let you guys have at it.
 
Am I using it for the wrong reasons ??

Ive been around jeeps my whole life and my dad used to use Rotella in some of them cuz we had it around for bobcats and tractors.
My 4.0 has NEVER ran smoother and quieter, even the "infamous" lifter sound at startup is pretty much gone (i'm sure it will be back) I figure anything that helps my motor last longer "I'm in". from looking at tons of info on here the 4.0 is said to show very good wear numbers with HDEO.
I did not want something like 15-40 (I know guys that run it) that just seems TOO HEAVY at starup, I guess. Seems like 15 would create a "dry start" issue in the long wrong (maybe i'm wrong). I ran T5 for 2k mi and drained it as I read on here that using a deisel oil could break build up free inside my motor and there is a chance the filter would not catch it,the oil came out black as coal, the new oil seems to be maintaning it's golden color. I used to use ML and I read about formula changes and saw a comment in a VOA post on here that exclaimed "where's the good stuff" so that was it, I jumped on the "4.0 has better results with a HDEO" boat.
since my switch I've avg 1-1.5mpg increase, I was also told on here that the T5 add pak is very similar to that of a High Mileage oil, that includes "seal conditioners" and jeeps are know for oil leaks, I have none.
I'm also stuck on 4k OCI with P1 or wix filter I used to use K&N but i'm tired of paying for two letters when the P1 seems to work aswell. I know I know I have seen th science behind the facts of extended OCI's and I know I can go longer or I could save money by going with dinno, but i'm ok with it.I also wanted an oil that I could run in my lawn equipment and pretty much anything else in my garage.

I guess these are my thoughts, am I way off or ok ?
I'm far from knowing everything about oil or understanding alot of this. but thats why i'm here.
 
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Originally Posted By: wsar10
Am I using it for the wrong reasons ??

Ive been around jeeps my whole life and my dad used to use Rotella in some of them cuz we had it around for bobcats and tractors.
My 4.0 has NEVER ran smoother and quieter, even the "infamous" lifter sound at startup is pretty much gone (i'm sure it will be back) I figure anything that helps my motor last longer "I'm in". from looking at tons of info on here the 4.0 is said to show very good wear numbers with HDEO.
I did not want something like 15-40 (I know guys that run it) that just seems TOO HEAVY at starup, I guess. Seems like 15 would create a "dry start" issue in the long wrong (maybe i'm wrong). I ran T5 for 2k mi and drained it as I read on here that using a deisel oil could break build up free inside my motor and there is a chance the filter would not catch it,the oil came out black as coal, the new oil seems to be maintaning it's golden color. I used to use ML and I read about formula changes and saw a comment in a VOA post on here that exclaimed "where's the good stuff" so that was it, I jumped on the "4.0 has better results with a HDEO" boat.
since my switch I've avg 1-1.5mpg increase, I was also told on here that the T5 add pak is very similar to that of a High Mileage oil, that includes "seal conditioners" and jeeps are know for oil leaks, I have none.
I'm also stuck on 4k OCI with P1 or wix filter I used to use K&N but i'm tired of paying for two letters when the P1 seems to work aswell. I know I know I have seen th science behind the facts of extended OCI's and I know I can go longer or I could save money by going with dinno, but i'm ok with it.I also wanted an oil that I could run in my lawn equipment and pretty much anything else in my garage.

I guess these are my thoughts, am I way off or ok ?
I'm far from knowing everything about oil or understanding alot of this. but thats why i'm here.


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I prefer the 10w30 HDEO's as well which pretty much means Rotella (my favorite anyway), but I'm currently running 15w40 Delo and being summer I can't tell the least bit of difference, and there's no noticable indication my 4.0 can either. Since the 15w40's are more readily available and can be caught on sale for absolute steals, I consider them a good option for the warmer months anyway.
 
MPG ? or harder to turn over ?

This would be an interrsting fact to include in your MMO post over on JF
 
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Good point, I was referring to running and turning over, I can't tell a whit of difference in the summer. No start up noise difference. I've not checked the mpg since I put the 15w40 in now 900 miles ago, that would be a good thing to do. My observations posted on that MMO thread you mentioned were on Rotella 10w30 conventional, which I'll soon be returning to anyway.

Probably not very good economics to save $3 on Delo over Rotella if it costs me a mpg...but I don't know that yet.
 
I'm going to try the T5 to see if my mileage gets any better than the sucky mpg's I get now. I am going to change the o2 sensor soon after it comes in from rockauto.com. Maybe something other than my foot is contributing to 16mpgs.
frown.gif
yuck.

I'm just testing ideas. My jeep has been a brute for me for 12yrs.

running Valvoline's maxlife 10w30 for many years.
 
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Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
I'm going to try the T5 to see if my mileage gets any better than the sucky mpg's I get now. I am going to change the o2 sensor soon after it comes in from rockauto.com. Maybe something other than my foot is contributing to 16mpgs.
frown.gif
yuck.

I'm just testing ideas. My jeep has been a brute for me for 12yrs.

running Valvoline's maxlife 10w30 for many years.


16 is what I get average with my 2000 with a 2" lift and 30" tires. I've seen 22 highway though. I'd definitely change the O2 sensors and check your alignment too. My friend's Cherokee got much better mpg after his alignment got fixed. It was so bad that the front passenger tire was much more worn than the others.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
I'm going to try the T5 to see if my mileage gets any better than the sucky mpg's I get now. I am going to change the o2 sensor soon after it comes in from rockauto.com. Maybe something other than my foot is contributing to 16mpgs.
frown.gif
yuck.

I'm just testing ideas. My jeep has been a brute for me for 12yrs.

running Valvoline's maxlife 10w30 for many years.


16 is what I get average with my 2000 with a 2" lift and 30" tires. I've seen 22 highway though. I'd definitely change the O2 sensors and check your alignment too. My friend's Cherokee got much better mpg after his alignment got fixed. It was so bad that the front passenger tire was much more worn than the others.


I'll try to get an alignment done this week. But I know that any pothole will knock it off again.

I, too, have a 2" lift as well, but I have just LT235/75 tires. A lowering kit for the cross-member to keep the driveline vibes down.

thanks for the that advice jeepman.
 
Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
I'm going to try the T5 to see if my mileage gets any better than the sucky mpg's I get now. I am going to change the o2 sensor soon after it comes in from rockauto.com. Maybe something other than my foot is contributing to 16mpgs.
frown.gif
yuck.

I'm just testing ideas. My jeep has been a brute for me for 12yrs.

running Valvoline's maxlife 10w30 for many years.


My MPG improved some going to HDEO, but more important;y I would be doing all the other maint. like diff fluids, TC fluids, trans filter anf fluid, fuel filter, plugs...things of this nature.
 
^I agree...also, I understand if the poster from MS has doubts whereas some roads there are MURDER!!! on alignment.

Sorry, just a fact.
 
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