Rotella T6 5w40 with 1 quart MMO

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I may live to regret it, but I wanted the cleaning of the HDEO and MMO to cut it to 30 wt. I have a 12 year old 4.2 ford truck engine that I had to pull the plenum twice for plugged
EGR ports. At 90K I originally replaced the gaskets and isolator bolts, and that took care of a material flaw and lean code through the gaskets. I had to clean the ports again at 132K for rough idle. I changed the PCV valve, and finally put in an oil trap/catch can. (Demarpaint told me to do this years ago.) I manuaully cleaned the valve train and valve covers and reinstalled.

I want to remove and clean what I missed. I am leary of flushes and the solvents in Kreen. I ran 2500 OCI on ST Syn 5W30, with one quart MMO. Now I am giving the 5quart Rotella/1quart MMO a try. All I noticed is the engine is quieter. So much for the always run synthetic from new and you will have no problems. This truck got Motorcraft synblend on 3K OCI from day one, and PP on 5K OCI from 80K on. I will advise if I have problems with it being too heavy a grade.
 
That is a good mix for cleaning. I recommend the same thing for many Jeep 4.0L owners who have tapping lifters. Many have said that after a couple changes it helps a lot.

The Rotella is a good cleaning oil to begin with, but the Marvel Mystery oil helps quite a bit. I run a mix of 5 Quarts Rotella 5w40, 1 quart Marvel Mystery Oil for a 3,000 mile OCI.

I don't have any pics, but I've seen the difference under the valve cover of a few neglected 4.0s after 3 or 4 changes.
 
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
I may live to regret it, but I wanted the cleaning of the HDEO and MMO to cut it to 30 wt. I have a 12 year old 4.2 ford truck engine that I had to pull the plenum twice for plugged
EGR ports. At 90K I originally replaced the gaskets and isolator bolts, and that took care of a material flaw and lean code through the gaskets. I had to clean the ports again at 132K for rough idle. I changed the PCV valve, and finally put in an oil trap/catch can. (Demarpaint told me to do this years ago.) I manuaully cleaned the valve train and valve covers and reinstalled.

I want to remove and clean what I missed. I am leary of flushes and the solvents in Kreen. I ran 2500 OCI on ST Syn 5W30, with one quart MMO. Now I am giving the 5quart Rotella/1quart MMO a try. All I noticed is the engine is quieter. So much for the always run synthetic from new and you will have no problems. This truck got Motorcraft synblend on 3K OCI from day one, and PP on 5K OCI from 80K on. I will advise if I have problems with it being too heavy a grade.


With winter coming in Ohio, you won't live to regret it. You already mentioned the engine is quieter that's a plus already. Wait till it gets cold and see how much easier the engine cranks. Just remember when posting about MMO to have your flame suit on. LOLOL

I like your comment about "So much for the always run synthetic from new and you will have no problems." I showed pictures of 3K Dino OCI's on a vehicle with 85K miles one owner, severe service, they'd make you want to vomit. Some engines just need a little something extra for cleaning. You'll be happy I'm sure. Keep us updated.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
I may live to regret it, but I wanted the cleaning of the HDEO and MMO to cut it to 30 wt. I have a 12 year old 4.2 ford truck engine that I had to pull the plenum twice for plugged
EGR ports. At 90K I originally replaced the gaskets and isolator bolts, and that took care of a material flaw and lean code through the gaskets. I had to clean the ports again at 132K for rough idle. I changed the PCV valve, and finally put in an oil trap/catch can. (Demarpaint told me to do this years ago.) I manuaully cleaned the valve train and valve covers and reinstalled.
I want to remove and clean what I missed. I am leary of flushes and the solvents in Kreen. I ran 2500 OCI on ST Syn 5W30, with one quart MMO. Now I am giving the 5quart Rotella/1quart MMO a try. All I noticed is the engine is quieter. So much for the always run synthetic from new and you will have no problems. This truck got Motorcraft synblend on 3K OCI from day one, and PP on 5K OCI from 80K on. I will advise if I have problems with it being too heavy a grade.


With winter coming in Ohio, you won't live to regret it. You already mentioned
the engine is quieter that's a plus already. Wait till it gets cold and see how much easier the engine cranks. Just remember when posting about MMO to have your flame suit on. LOLOL

I like your comment about "So much for the always run synthetic from new and you will have no problems." I showed pictures of 3K Dino OCI's on a vehicle with 85K miles one owner, severe service, they'd make you want to vomit. Some engines just need a little something extra for cleaning. You'll be happy I'm sure. Keep us updated.


Wadaya mean. Dontcha know that the oil companies spend millions developing a product and as long as you change the oil on time you shouldn't have any problems.
Hogwash. Additives have their place and obviously the oil companies are in business to turn a profit,not offer the best possible product they can. The mud spewing from some members mouths make me laugh. If it's not one guy stating follow the maufacturers instruction,except on the mileage interval,or additives are snake oil,but I use the engine flush bull.
I wish mmo was available here but I cannot find it anywhere. I love the smell.
 
Let us know how it works. I can't see it as out of line unless the MMO flashes off and you see either consumption or deposits from such a great amount in there.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Why foul up a great motor oil.


I am still waiting on a 5w30 synthetic HDEO. The testimonies seem to show MMO in a favorable light. At worst I can find no evidence it does harm. It is my hunting truck, what could possibly go wrong
coffee2.gif
 
MMO is a gentle cleaner and I like you're blend since you have a known issue to address. I've run MMO blends in all of our older vehicles at one time or another for various reasons. It works, albeit slowly and that's the best route anyway.
 
Quote:
obviously the oil companies are in business to turn a profit,not offer the best possible product they can.


/facepalm
 
FWIW: Through first 400 miles, and no change in cold start or milage with heavier oil.(5w40 Rotella with 20% MMO vs. 5w20/5w30 synthetics). Still the same lousy 14/15 in town
cry.gif
! Sorry, I will not pull the valve cover again to check cleaning. I will just hope it cleans a little and I have no additional wear from the higher viscosity.

Of note about a 1/4 in of oil in the bottom of the PVC line oil seperator. (New PVC valve and spereator place in line)
 
Last edited:
[color:#FF0000]
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
I may live to regret it, but I wanted the cleaning of the HDEO and MMO to cut it to 30 wt. I have a 12 year old 4.2 ford truck engine that I had to pull the plenum twice for plugged
EGR ports. At 90K I originally replaced the gaskets and isolator bolts, and that took care of a material flaw and lean code through the gaskets. I had to clean the ports again at 132K for rough idle. I changed the PCV valve, and finally put in an oil trap/catch can. (Demarpaint told me to do this years ago.) I manuaully cleaned the valve train and valve covers and reinstalled.
I want to remove and clean what I missed. I am leary of flushes and the solvents in Kreen. I ran 2500 OCI on ST Syn 5W30, with one quart MMO. Now I am giving the 5quart Rotella/1quart MMO a try. All I noticed is the engine is quieter. So much for the always run synthetic from new and you will have no problems. This truck got Motorcraft synblend on 3K OCI from day one, and PP on 5K OCI from 80K on. I will advise if I have problems with it being too heavy a grade.


With winter coming in Ohio, you won't live to regret it. You already mentioned
the engine is quieter that's a plus already. Wait till it gets cold and see how much easier the engine cranks. Just remember when posting about MMO to have your flame suit on. LOLOL

I like your comment about "So much for the always run synthetic from new and you will have no problems." I showed pictures of 3K Dino OCI's on a vehicle with 85K miles one owner, severe service, they'd make you want to vomit. Some engines just need a little something extra for cleaning. You'll be happy I'm sure. Keep us updated.


Wadaya mean. Dontcha know that the oil companies spend millions developing a product and as long as you change the oil on time you shouldn't have any problems.
Hogwash. Additives have their place and obviously the oil companies are in business to turn a profit,not offer the best possible product they can. The mud spewing from some members mouths make me laugh. If it's not one guy stating follow the maufacturers instruction,except on the mileage interval,or additives are snake oil,but I use the engine flush bull.
I wish mmo was available here but I cannot find it anywhere. I love the smell.


GLUE SNIFFING IS NOT A GREAT IDEA! It causes brain damage to owners of modern vehicles.
Unless your engine manufacturer has approved an oil additive:
DON'T DRIVE AROUND WITH ANY KIND OF SOLVENT FLUSH IN YOUR OIL.
Do yourself a favour and remember that an engine goes real quiet when the oil fails sometimes, assuming it is hot. Other times it starts to rattle before throwing a bearing etc. Cold start rattles are more likely to be bad news, like using 15w40 and not an 0/30 in Canada if you have no pre heater for a modern MAN truck for example.
If your cars engine gets sludged and changing to a shorter OCI with a high detergent oil (HM or fully synthetic) is not enough or the sludge serious, READ THE ENGINE MANUAL, as it should be cleaned in an approved safe manner.
If you are short on cash, just add some can of 10 minutes at idle flush just before an OCI. They are fairly safe (Watch the oil pressure) and won't clog the oil feed pump screen, cyliner head oil galleries or feed line to the turbo.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: skyship
[color:#FF0000]
Clevy said:
demarpaint said:
Cmarti said:
GLUE SNIFFING IS NOT A GREAT IDEA! It causes brain damage to owners of modern vehicles.
Unless your engine manufacturer has approved an oil additive:
DON'T DRIVE AROUND WITH ANY KIND OF SOLVENT FLUSH IN YOUR OIL.
Do yourself a favour and remember that an engine goes real quiet when the oil fails sometimes, assuming it is hot. Other times it starts to rattle before throwing a bearing etc. Cold start rattles are more likely to be bad news, like using 15w40 and not an 0/30 in Canada if you have no pre heater for a modern MAN truck for example.
If your cars engine gets sludged and changing to a shorter OCI with a high detergent oil (HM or fully synthetic) is not enough or the sludge serious, READ THE ENGINE MANUAL, as it should be cleaned in an approved safe manner.
If you are short on cash, just add some can of 10 minutes at idle flush just before an OCI. They are fairly safe (Watch the oil pressure) and won't clog the oil feed pump screen, cyliner head oil galleries or feed line to the turbo.



Have you ever turned a wrench? .....or are you repeating jargon you have read on the internet? I don't know your background that has you speak so strongly. I escape in my out building working on vehicles and equipment. I had the plenum, intake and valve covers off this vehicle to address a problem. You tell me I am going to throw a bearing using MMO with a heavier weight oil? Would the add pack in Rotella t-6 be so diminished by MMO to let that happen?

Short on cash....You must know I have two kids in college and a wedding to pay for! Why am I using Rotella syn at short OCI if this was the case? What I am trying to acieve is a little more cleaning following a maunal cleaning of the valve train .......as slop in the valve train was clogging the EGR ports in the plenum by blowing through the PCV system and mixing with hot EGR gasses, wich are directed to a small port in the intake....... and hoping I do not increase incremental wear due to a decrease in oil flow from the heavier viscosity. Short OCI with PP synthetic did not resolve, nor did solvents through a vacuum line. The manual cleaning of the ports and valve train may be the only real solution, but getting an intake off by having to reach under the firewall cowl is no picinic.

This combination may increase wear for the 2500 mile oci, and offer no additional cleaning, but I do not expect catastrophic failure. I can find no evidence of such in my reading, and would ask you to point me to a specific example.
 
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Originally Posted By: skyship
[color:#FF0000]
Clevy said:
demarpaint said:
Cmarti said:
GLUE SNIFFING IS NOT A GREAT IDEA! It causes brain damage to owners of modern vehicles.
Unless your engine manufacturer has approved an oil additive:
DON'T DRIVE AROUND WITH ANY KIND OF SOLVENT FLUSH IN YOUR OIL.
Do yourself a favour and remember that an engine goes real quiet when the oil fails sometimes, assuming it is hot. Other times it starts to rattle before throwing a bearing etc. Cold start rattles are more likely to be bad news, like using 15w40 and not an 0/30 in Canada if you have no pre heater for a modern MAN truck for example.
If your cars engine gets sludged and changing to a shorter OCI with a high detergent oil (HM or fully synthetic) is not enough or the sludge serious, READ THE ENGINE MANUAL, as it should be cleaned in an approved safe manner.
If you are short on cash, just add some can of 10 minutes at idle flush just before an OCI. They are fairly safe (Watch the oil pressure) and won't clog the oil feed pump screen, cyliner head oil galleries or feed line to the turbo.



Have you ever turned a wrench? .....or are you repeating jargon you have read on the internet? I don't know your background that has you speak so strongly. I escape in my out building working on vehicles and equipment. I had the plenum, intake and valve covers off this vehicle to address a problem. You tell me I am going to throw a bearing using MMO with a heavier weight oil? Would the add pack in Rotella t-6 be so diminished by MMO to let that happen?

Short on cash....You must know I have two kids in college and a wedding to pay for! Why am I using Rotella syn at short OCI if this was the case? What I am trying to acieve is a little more cleaning following a maunal cleaning of the valve train .......as slop in the valve train was clogging the EGR ports in the plenum by blowing through the PCV system and mixing with hot EGR gasses, wich are directed to a small port in the intake....... and hoping I do not increase incremental wear due to a decrease in oil flow from the heavier viscosity. Short OCI with PP synthetic did not resolve, nor did solvents through a vacuum line. The manual cleaning of the ports and valve train may be the only real solution, but getting an intake off by having to reach under the firewall cowl is no picinic.

This combination may increase wear for the 2500 mile oci, and offer no additional cleaning, but I do not expect catastrophic failure. I can find no evidence of such in my reading, and would ask you to point me to a specific example.


I didn't see you have cleaned the engine, but thought it was another throw the can in and hope for the best. If the engine has been cleaned then the risk factors from solvents are far lower, although once cleaned just using a high Ca content oil (Major brand HM or full synthetic?) will take care of the remaining deposits.
I have about 20 years of wrench turning for marine diesels, about 5 with classic sports cars and about 5 as an inspector for the insurance industry. I get to read a lot of reports about expensive blown car engines (Porsche, Volvo and BMW) that failed under extended warranty in Germany or the UK. Most of the oil related failures that were not caused by silly things like the wrong oil, filter or lunatic OCI are caused by some fool of an owner using additives. Oddly enough I get to inspect failed classic car engines several times a year where a serious claim against the company that restored the engine has resulted. If the failure occurs within OCI limits, then the most common reason is US made snake oil additives. I have yet to see a failure from Liqui Moly additives as they do test them fully, but I would still avoid their use and simply look for a better oil.

The Germans are good at reading instructions, so don't use additives very often and most of the expensive Porsche engines that are damaged are owned by non German nationals that read too much advertising. Modern engines won't last as long as some of the older ones due to reverse quality control (If a part lasts a lot longer than the extended warranty, the manufacturer replaces it with a cheaper part when the next production line specs review takes place). That makes my main part time job of checking bearing or cylinder wear reports very difficult because the manufacturers change the company and quality of the bearings fairly often these days, although Porsche, BMW and Merc don't change specs in the wrong direction for their cars as regards engines. VW are not so good as they have to reduce unit costs.
We are rapidly heading to a new car era where you have around a 10 year warranty and then would be best advised to scrap the car through some dealer scheme. They will be worth peanuts after warranty period because everything will start to fail.
 
Last edited:
An update. I finished a 2500 OCI with the 5 quarts Rotella and MMO. My engine did not implode. Hopefully it cleaned, but I am not pulling the valve covers. Truck ran like a champ in the cold due to the new intake gaskets, isolator bolts and cleaning the EGR ports.
Dumped 1.5 oz of stuff from the oil catch can.

I changed oil to 6 quarts Mobil 0W-20. The negative of the experiment with heavier HDEO/MMO seems to be a drop in cold weather milage from 14 in town to 13.5. Hopefully no added wear. The positive, the engine had less valve train noise than the 5w-20 or 0W-20. Again hopefully some cleaning and it is nice to have it run well in cold weather!
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Originally Posted By: skyship
[color:#FF0000]
Clevy said:
demarpaint said:
Cmarti said:
GLUE SNIFFING IS NOT A GREAT IDEA! It causes brain damage to owners of modern vehicles.
Unless your engine manufacturer has approved an oil additive:
DON'T DRIVE AROUND WITH ANY KIND OF SOLVENT FLUSH IN YOUR OIL.
Do yourself a favour and remember that an engine goes real quiet when the oil fails sometimes, assuming it is hot. Other times it starts to rattle before throwing a bearing etc. Cold start rattles are more likely to be bad news, like using 15w40 and not an 0/30 in Canada if you have no pre heater for a modern MAN truck for example.
If your cars engine gets sludged and changing to a shorter OCI with a high detergent oil (HM or fully synthetic) is not enough or the sludge serious, READ THE ENGINE MANUAL, as it should be cleaned in an approved safe manner.
If you are short on cash, just add some can of 10 minutes at idle flush just before an OCI. They are fairly safe (Watch the oil pressure) and won't clog the oil feed pump screen, cyliner head oil galleries or feed line to the turbo.



Have you ever turned a wrench? .....or are you repeating jargon you have read on the internet? I don't know your background that has you speak so strongly. I escape in my out building working on vehicles and equipment. I had the plenum, intake and valve covers off this vehicle to address a problem. You tell me I am going to throw a bearing using MMO with a heavier weight oil? Would the add pack in Rotella t-6 be so diminished by MMO to let that happen?

Short on cash....You must know I have two kids in college and a wedding to pay for! Why am I using Rotella syn at short OCI if this was the case? What I am trying to acieve is a little more cleaning following a maunal cleaning of the valve train .......as slop in the valve train was clogging the EGR ports in the plenum by blowing through the PCV system and mixing with hot EGR gasses, wich are directed to a small port in the intake....... and hoping I do not increase incremental wear due to a decrease in oil flow from the heavier viscosity. Short OCI with PP synthetic did not resolve, nor did solvents through a vacuum line. The manual cleaning of the ports and valve train may be the only real solution, but getting an intake off by having to reach under the firewall cowl is no picinic.

This combination may increase wear for the 2500 mile oci, and offer no additional cleaning, but I do not expect catastrophic failure. I can find no evidence of such in my reading, and would ask you to point me to a specific example.


I didn't see you have cleaned the engine, but thought it was another throw the can in and hope for the best. If the engine has been cleaned then the risk factors from solvents are far lower, although once cleaned just using a high Ca content oil (Major brand HM or full synthetic?) will take care of the remaining deposits.
I have about 20 years of wrench turning for marine diesels, about 5 with classic sports cars and about 5 as an inspector for the insurance industry. I get to read a lot of reports about expensive blown car engines (Porsche, Volvo and BMW) that failed under extended warranty in Germany or the UK. Most of the oil related failures that were not caused by silly things like the wrong oil, filter or lunatic OCI are caused by some fool of an owner using additives. Oddly enough I get to inspect failed classic car engines several times a year where a serious claim against the company that restored the engine has resulted. If the failure occurs within OCI limits, then the most common reason is US made snake oil additives. I have yet to see a failure from Liqui Moly additives as they do test them fully, but I would still avoid their use and simply look for a better oil.

The Germans are good at reading instructions, so don't use additives very often and most of the expensive Porsche engines that are damaged are owned by non German nationals that read too much advertising. Modern engines won't last as long as some of the older ones due to reverse quality control (If a part lasts a lot longer than the extended warranty, the manufacturer replaces it with a cheaper part when the next production line specs review takes place). That makes my main part time job of checking bearing or cylinder wear reports very difficult because the manufacturers change the company and quality of the bearings fairly often these days, although Porsche, BMW and Merc don't change specs in the wrong direction for their cars as regards engines. VW are not so good as they have to reduce unit costs.
We are rapidly heading to a new car era where you have around a 10 year warranty and then would be best advised to scrap the car through some dealer scheme. They will be worth peanuts after warranty period because everything will start to fail.


So you post about glue sniffing because I post that oil companies don't put out the best possible product they can,but automakers get parts that last too long and they revise it for a weaker one.
So automakers do it,but oil companies don't?
More insight from the resident expert skyship.
Im a carpenter,I don't claim to be an engineer nor in the auto field whatsoever,you imply your some kind of expert,yet your advice and expertise have been disproved countless times,flip flopping about additive use and admittedly not even reading the posts but replying anyways.
Your are better than tv as far as entertainment value.
 
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