Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 in LS1 Camaro
- Thread starter Chris B.
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Well, I am sold on Rotella Synthetic and recommend it to everyone! It is the best oil for the money and is a great grade for year round use. You will be very happy with your decision.
I thought only 5W30 and 10w30 were recommended for this engine. 5W40 in Colorado seems a little thick. What does your owners manual recommend?
Trust me, CO gets hot in summer. That 40-weight will come in handy.
I love this oil as well.
In the summer, it's the main fill for my 240 Volvo (b230, 4 cyl).
I've also talked some people into using Rotella-T... most recently, my best friend is running it in his 1200hp Big Block Chevy.
Not to thread jack, and to any who can answer, but is there any issue running Rotella-T in a car with a cat. converter?
Does this oil "poison" the cat.? I have read some posts on BITOG that suggest this.
Also, is this oil being reformulated... thus far, the bottles in my local Sprawl Mart have been the same for the last two years.
In the summer, it's the main fill for my 240 Volvo (b230, 4 cyl).
I've also talked some people into using Rotella-T... most recently, my best friend is running it in his 1200hp Big Block Chevy.
Not to thread jack, and to any who can answer, but is there any issue running Rotella-T in a car with a cat. converter?
Does this oil "poison" the cat.? I have read some posts on BITOG that suggest this.
Also, is this oil being reformulated... thus far, the bottles in my local Sprawl Mart have been the same for the last two years.
IMO, this would only be a concern if the vehicle burned a LOT of oil. RTS 5w40 carries an API SL gas-engine rating. If there was a signifigant issue with this oil harming catalytic converters, I can't imagine that it would ever have been able to achieve the API SL spec. Someone please correct me if I'm all wet.
Over at Saturnfans we think Rotella is great stuff to curb oil consumption in the 1.9s.
Is it worth 4 bucks a quart in my $2000 dollar car?
Probably not but what the heck.........
Is it worth 4 bucks a quart in my $2000 dollar car?
Probably not but what the heck.........
I've never poisoned a cat converter, nor ever known anyone that has. But the converters might be getting smaller to save money and weight, and maybe this will be happening more frequently to those using non specified oils.
Depends on who you want to believe. Domestic manufacturer's research indicated it a big enough issue to have ZDDP reduced over the years to prolong catalytic converter life. Thus the reason SM/GF-4 oils have the ZDDP limitations they do.
And it's not strictly how much oil a vehicle uses, it's how volatile the phosphorus is in the formulation.
The key point to remember is that something like Rotella-T isn't going to immediately "kill your cat". It may, however, reduce it's life as far as it's effectiveness and eventually prolong the time it takes to "light up" even if it continues to pass emission standards.
Personally, if I had a brand new Tier 2 emissions vehicle I'd look for an alternative if possible to hedge my bets if I planned on keeping the vehicle a long time and didn't want to have to replace the converter down the road.
On the other hand, how much is a replacement converter? You could consider it a potential cost of the freedom of running any oil you choose to. Besides, most people will trade-in, sell-off, or total the car before it's an issue. YMMV.
Never knew an oil can kill a Cat converter. My LS1 burns a little oil maybe 1/2 qt in 5,000 miles. This is on German Castrol. Will the Rotella Syn 5w40 stop the oil burning that the engine is burning?
Also what happends if my cat does go out on me? How will it effect the way the car runs? Thanks!
Also what happends if my cat does go out on me? How will it effect the way the car runs? Thanks!
My buddy has been running a baffed out Grand Marquis thats fills the emission testing garage with so much smoke ,from burning oil ,that you can't see the back wall.If anybody should fail an E test it's that car.It just passed again!The owner says the equipment can't see smoke only failed readings and it passes everytime!If any cat should be dead it's that one but it lives on.
That depends on whether or not it is clogged, "blown out" or whatever. If your OBD2 system is functioning properly, you will get an S.E.S. (Service Engine Soon) light on the dash, as well as a code thrown (which will show up in a scan of the system).
BTW; as far as I know ALL years of the LS1 f body were speced (according to the manual) for SJ oils, so the add packs in the Rotella T syn.'s SL rating will still enable you to get a new catcon under GM's TSB/extended cat warranty, EVEN if the oil possibly caused the damage.
Both my 00 and 01 LS1 cars are speced for SJ oils as well as a friend's 07 LS7 Vette. I've been using Amsoil series 2000 0W30.
Anyone see a problem with what I'am using?
Anyone see a problem with what I'am using?
Hmmm...I believe it also has to have the "Starburst" symbol, RTS's SL rating is not enough. However, I don't know if GM checks what type of oil you've been using if the CAT fails to pass emissions tests.
But as I mentioned before, unless I had a brand new vehicle that had to pass the most strigent Tier 2 tests ten years down the road, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Cat issues aside, RTS is a stout oil ..great deposit control in my experience ...even over extended drains and is very reasonably priced. It may be more then you need in terms of vitamins and minerals ..and if you're not going to do (somewhat) extend drains, you can surely get by with less potent add packs. By extended, I would mean something like 6 month in a short trip situation all the way up to 10k+
The 4.3 in my 1995 Blazer loved the stuff. Sold it at 171k and it was running fine. Never had a problem with cat poisoning either.
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The 4.3 in my 1995 Blazer loved the stuff. Sold it at 171k and it was running fine. Never had a problem with cat poisoning either.
Yeah...but it didn't have to pass the Tier 2 emissions standards.
I used it in my '99 Passat 1.8T (modded for about 200hp - 106K when wrecked)and in my current '95 M3 (about 250+ Rwhp - 127K) which I see redline and do 70m everyday...
When I blew the HG on the M3 at 124K....the head bits were spotless and within spec. Nothing needed replacing except gaskets and seals. (I did the timing chain since it was open, the valve keepers cause they Nitraded them for hardness in '96)
The Passat took one Jug, the M3 exactly 2. Bucks but worth it!
When I blew the HG on the M3 at 124K....the head bits were spotless and within spec. Nothing needed replacing except gaskets and seals. (I did the timing chain since it was open, the valve keepers cause they Nitraded them for hardness in '96)
The Passat took one Jug, the M3 exactly 2. Bucks but worth it!
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