Rotella Gas Truck - How Synthetic Is It?

Status
Not open for further replies.
You are making judgements based on anecdotal observations.
Color, smell, flakes, etc. are not types of relevant data.
It is synthetic oil. It meets the legal definition of that.
There is no way to answer "how synthetic" it is, since there is no definition of that.
As for the composition of it (GTL, hydrocracked, % of each etc), only SOPUS can answer that.
 
it produces some carbon flakes in the filter
This is the interesting part to me, but without a tear down we can't tell if the carbon was already on the piston crowns and ring lands before the Mobil 3000 was used and the Mobil 3000 is cleaning the sins of another oil. Or, Mobil 3000 is coking what hot, then flaking off later.

We did see an enormous amount of carbon being cleaned from my Durango and don't know what sinned oil , but we do know which oil broke it loose.
 
It is much darker than any of the other synthetics I have used (Castrol, Pennzoil, and Kendall), it produces some carbon flakes in the filter (just like MS5K did) and has somewhat of a burned smell to it.
Thanks for posting. I have observed the exact same thing with RGT. Oil came out nastiest black I've ever seen for a "synthetic" after only 6,000 miles. I've gone over 9,000 with other brands and the oil looked much cleaner.

I don't subscribe to the "oh, it's cleanng" theory. I think it cannot handle the temp cycles and deteriorates fast, much like mineral oils.

I enjoy Project Farm videos but his motor oil testing methods don't simulate typical use in an engine for thousands of miles and hundreds of cold starts.

I still have some RGT in my stash but I won't be using it anytime soon. It may end up in the lawnmower.
 
When they ran their rebate when it first came out I bought probably over 50 quarts of the stuff (it was practically free with the autozone rebate added in). Never had any sort of issues with it in two different vehicles. No issues with “noise”, consumption or color when it came out. I actually kind of liked the oil, except for that bottle...easily the worst looking bottle in the oil industry. IMO.
 
Picked up a couple jugs of RGT when they were practically giving them away. Using in both the 98 and 99 Corolla in my sig. Nothing unusual happening but then again, those Corollas really don’t stress oil that much.
 
Ran it. Mehh. I prefer QSFS this month ...
It's probably the same oil :) :) :)

Also I don't understand the question.

Sort of funny oil world we live in:

Shell GTL is synthesized with very high VI and low pour - but not classified group V.

Hydroisomerized mineral oil is group III and called 'synthetic'.

It appears synthetic is a advertising term.
 
Sort of funny oil world we live in:

Shell GTL is synthesized with very high VI and low pour - but not classified group V.

Hydroisomerized mineral oil is group III and called 'synthetic'.

It appears synthetic is a advertising term.
GTL derived base stocks meet the stated requirements for a Group III in API Annex E, therefore they do not meet the requirement for a Group V. Either way, Annex E is for blenders to use in base stock interchange, not to classify a finished product.
 
While I do not expect anyone to know exactly and though it is marketed as a "full synthetic", after 6 runs of it in my Rubicon (30K miles), I am leaning towards it being a "minimal" synthetic. No, I do not have any scientific data past my UOAs, but it has the same physical observed characteristics after a 5K run as the Mobil Super 5000 that I used in my 2010 FX4 for a number of runs. It is much darker than any of the other synthetics I have used (Castrol, Pennzoil, and Kendall), it produces some carbon flakes in the filter (just like MS5K did) and has somewhat of a burned smell to it.

Yes, naysayers, I know, far from scientific or convincing, but something tells me it has the bare minimum contents to be labeled a synthetic. Has anyone had a similar experience when comparing it to other oils or does anyone know what its composition is?

Really only two options in my opinion. Either the additive package tends to darken more with heat or it is holding more contaminants in suspension. Assuming engine condition and operating condition hasn't changed the first is just a curiosity and the second would be desirable as the other option is to leave more deposited on the engine surfaces.
 
Guys, he compared the RGT to Mobil Super 5k, not Mobil 3000. Just wanted to clarify.
 
Thanks for posting. I have observed the exact same thing with RGT. Oil came out nastiest black I've ever seen for a "synthetic" after only 6,000 miles. I've gone over 9,000 with other brands and the oil looked much cleaner.

I don't subscribe to the "oh, it's cleanng" theory. I think it cannot handle the temp cycles and deteriorates fast, much like mineral oils.

I enjoy Project Farm videos but his motor oil testing methods don't simulate typical use in an engine for thousands of miles and hundreds of cold starts.

I still have some RGT in my stash but I won't be using it anytime soon. It may end up in the lawnmower.
I've observed the same for Mobil 1 EP, it turns very dark very quickly, and it goes back to color, smell, feel, etc, tell you something has happened but it does not tell you what has happened or to what degree, something has happened. The oil is darker - ok, why and what does it mean? It is IMPOSSIBLE to say. The oil smells like it has gasoline in it - ok, but all oil has at least some gasoline in it after some miles and it's in no way quantitative or meaningful. These observations just don't tell you anything meaningful about what has happened.
 
Last edited:
The oil is darker - ok, why and what does it mean? It is IMPOSSIBLE to say.
I disagree. Black oil is likely burnt and/or contains a high concentration of undesirable contaminants. I don't want that stuff running through my engine. I'd rather err on the side of caution and change the oil early.

Of all the oils listed below, only RGT turned pitch black after 5K miles. All others were medium amber at 7-9K+ miles in the same engine.
M1, QSUD, PP, PUP, G-Oil, Castrol Edge, RGT.

Based on my experience I will not use RGT again in my high-revving 2ZZ. YMMV
 
Last edited:
When they ran their rebate when it first came out I bought probably over 50 quarts of the stuff (it was practically free with the autozone rebate added in). Never had any sort of issues with it in two different vehicles. No issues with “noise”, consumption or color when it came out. I actually kind of liked the oil, except for that bottle...easily the worst looking bottle in the oil industry. IMO.
The bottle, who cares?
 
has anyone who has had their used RGT analyzed reported results showing the oil has broken down or no longer protects or is "burnt and/or contains a high concentration of undesirable contaminants"...?

I've not seen that and Shell oil has a good reputation...

your car, your choice but I've seen nothing that shows that Shell RGT is any less a "synthetic" than many other choices out there...I'd sure like to see any evidence if there is any...

Bill
 
I disagree. Black oil is likely burnt and/or contains a high concentration of undesirable contaminants. I don't want that stuff running through my engine. I'd rather err on the side of caution and change the oil early.

Of all the oils listed below, only RGT turned pitch black after 5K miles. All others were medium amber at 7-9K+ miles in the same engine.
M1, QSUD, PP, PUP, G-Oil, Castrol Edge, RGT.

Based on my experience I will not use RGT again in my high-revving 2ZZ. YMMV
No, black oil MAY be burnt but there may be a whole bunch of other explanations and my point is YOU don't KNOW which it is LOOKING at it.

Do you REALLY believe RGT was BURNT while all the others were totally fine over an OCI of 5K? Do you really believe Shell produced oil that meets your manufacturer's requirements and it drastically underperformed to the point where it was fried while all other oils, including other Shell oils, were fine?

Why do scientific instruments exist? Hint, it's because look, smell, feel have very limited value in telling you what's really going on. BITOG needs to get off the idea that look, smell, sound, or feel have any qualitative or quantitative value outside of maybe an engine running with no oil (sound) or an engine full of sludge (look).
 
Last edited:
I'd say run a few more OCIs then switch. for a few more OCIs to see the difference. When I got my new to me minivan, I used Pennzoil platinum ultra in it and the oil turned black almost immediately. my first thought, this stuff is garbage. Then the next OCI it got better, and so no until after the 4th OCI, I was ashamed to change it because it was only pancake syrup colored.

Since you had Mobil oil in there that was what you consider inferior, the RGT might be cleaning out what it left behind. Give it a few OCI to see if it cleans it out completely or if it continues and is actually the oil causing the problem.

You UOA will tell you if the RGT is causing your engine to grind itself into a pile of metal shavings before the next OCIs are done.... 99.9999% chance it isn't. :)
 
This is the interesting part to me, but without a tear down we can't tell if the carbon was already on the piston crowns and ring lands before the Mobil 3000 was used and the Mobil 3000 is cleaning the sins of another oil. Or, Mobil 3000 is coking what hot, then flaking off later.

We did see an enormous amount of carbon being cleaned from my Durango and don't know what sinned oil , but we do know which oil broke it loose.
Wayne - I have not used any Mobil 3000 in it, I was merely comparing the physical characteristics of RGT to the Mobil Super 5000 that I used in my 2010 FX4 thereby suggesting that RGT behaves more like a conventional oil than a synthetic. I have 45K miles on the engine and it has only seen:

Castrol Edge (4 OCs) from 800 to 12,250 miles
Kendall GT-1 (1 OC) from 12,251 to 15,000 miles
Rotella Gas Truck for (6 OCs) from 15,001 to 45,000 miles

I would be hard pressed to believe that I have a carbon or sludging issue given the relatively low mileage and frequent OCIs with nothing but synthetic oils since it was new. While I know (and explicitly stated) that I have no scientific data to substantiate it, I do not think that RGT performs as well as other synthetics. In my engine, it certainly cannot be used as a long drain oil (and I know that it is not marketed to be), but with an average TBN of 2.5 after 5K miles, it is definitely not an oil that I would push much past that.

The 3.6L is a MPI engine and does not suffer from fuel dilution and this is quantified by the UOAs I have done on every OC since it was new. I have not seen the other oils in this engine or in my previous engines be this black/dirty with only 5K miles on it and again, I get that is not a scientific way to determine anything--BUT there is something to it. Despite the large stash of it that I have, I will likely stop using it, but will save some for the outdoor power equipment and sell/donate the rest.
 
I have it in my Silverado 6.6 gasser and just pulled my 13k 5th wheel almost 2500 miles and it didnt blow up. I am thinking thats pretty compelling evidence.
(please view this post with the utmost sarcasm)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top