GON
$175 Site Donor 2026
Do you concur or non-concur with this rivet "tip" on a hinge?
I non-concur for about six reasons:
I non-concur for about six reasons:
Rivet "tip" on a hinge- do you concur or non-concur?
- Thread starter GON
- Start date
Mine have been taken off to do other things. If needed some small pieces of wood, toothpicks, I've even cut a small dowel in 1/2, 1/4's and used wood glue. Most I have done always had enough wood deeper or behind to just use a longer screw.
Rivets into wood? I'll pass.
Rivets into wood? I'll pass.
dnewton3
Staff member
AI garbage.
If the wood strips, you have a few much better options (in my order of preference):
- use a longer screw
- use a larger diameter screw
- use a plastic insert (the type you'd use to hang a picture)
- use a hard-set wood putty
- etc ...
If the wood strips, you have a few much better options (in my order of preference):
- use a longer screw
- use a larger diameter screw
- use a plastic insert (the type you'd use to hang a picture)
- use a hard-set wood putty
- etc ...
slo town
$200 Site Donor 2026
You can also insert a wooden toothpick coated with Elmer's glue. Let is set up before re-inserting the screw. Works every time for me.
Scott
Is this the new default? Anything we find dumb is "AI"?
While this video is slop, it is not AI slop. Those are some actual grubby human fingernails.
People have been doing dumb things long before AI and they'll keep doing dumb things long after our robot overloards have us breaking rocks because they've taken all the other jobs.
Me, I'd drill the hole oversize, glue an in appropriately sized dowel, cut it flush, and completely re-drill the screwhole. No "creative repairs", just the correct one.
That works well.
If it's really bad, I've drilled the holes to a known dowel size and used polyurethane glue and a dampened oak dowel. Pound it in.
Next day saw it off level and drill new correct size pilot holes for the screws.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
Just dumb internet stuff. Sadly people who don't know better will do it.
etc ...
I like to use a 1/4" drill and glue in a wooden dowel .... and then start over.
This works well, that or a broken off wooden match stick.
I've done both and both work well.
dnewton3
Staff member
Anything? No. But this video in question, yes.
The voice and script are indeed AI garbage. Just because human hands are in the video does not mean it isn't AI content.
True; that doesn't change the content in this video though.
Yet another decent option to anything but using a rivet in wood.
Putting a pop rivet into wood works surprisingly well. As I've said before we're restoring a WWII era Lancaster bomber. It has a few bits of wood here and there. We found one small wooden piece that had been pop riveted to an aluminum panel. It's a really strong joint.
So pop riveting into wood isn't a new idea. But I wouldn't attach a hinge that way. Far better to drill out the loose area, glue in a wooden dowel, cut flush and drill a new screw hole.
So pop riveting into wood isn't a new idea. But I wouldn't attach a hinge that way. Far better to drill out the loose area, glue in a wooden dowel, cut flush and drill a new screw hole.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2024
- Messages
- 1,599
I remember helping my dad install kitchen cabinets back in the old country in the mid-80's.
The process included knocking perfectly shaped cubical holes in the (brick) wall - about 3x3x3 inches, cementing perfectly fitting wooden blocks in, waiting for the whole thing to dry, smoothing over, painting, then remembering where it was, then positioning the cabinets and then driving screws or hammering nails in it. Can't remember. It looked like the paragon of worksmanship to me...
Decades later I reminded him about this, how he used to do things "the right way". He looked at me strange and went "Kid, we simply didn't have dowels and anchors in the hardware store back then. We had nothing but nails. We had to reinvent the wheel for EVERYTHING to get things done, while the rest of the world was running by. These wooden blocks were a pain to install correctly, they had to be tight to not pop out, they were way less efficient than any anchor. It's just that they were all we had."
The process included knocking perfectly shaped cubical holes in the (brick) wall - about 3x3x3 inches, cementing perfectly fitting wooden blocks in, waiting for the whole thing to dry, smoothing over, painting, then remembering where it was, then positioning the cabinets and then driving screws or hammering nails in it. Can't remember. It looked like the paragon of worksmanship to me...
Decades later I reminded him about this, how he used to do things "the right way". He looked at me strange and went "Kid, we simply didn't have dowels and anchors in the hardware store back then. We had nothing but nails. We had to reinvent the wheel for EVERYTHING to get things done, while the rest of the world was running by. These wooden blocks were a pain to install correctly, they had to be tight to not pop out, they were way less efficient than any anchor. It's just that they were all we had."
What a horrible idea, chances are all the psi/load would just be in the small area of the of the expanded rivet head. And if in a pine wood hole it would not take much to to move around with any form of load. Then to get out the dumb move you just did, you would have to pull the hinge to drill out the rivet. I use bamboo toothpicks or drill for an interference hardwood dowel and exterior wood glue.
It doesn't have to shut, this video is all about securing the hinge. One step at a time here...quit trying to de-rail the discussion /sarc
There is a lazy landlord out there that lives for this stuff. Not concerned about the function, only that he's got 1 hour to satisfy the complaining tenant before his tee off time.
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