Rings stuck in grooves

I'm not a fan of wd-40 in general, but when I had to store my boat for any amount of time, I went to my local marine store and picked up Fogging oil. With the engine running, you spray it into the intake. It starts smoking like it's on fire, but it coats the entire intake track. You do this until it stalls. Then I would spray it into each cylinder plug hole. The film that's left doesn't run off the cylinder walls, so you won't have dry rusty metal even after years of storage. It will keep rings from becoming set or stuck. This stuff really works. The old guy who owned the marina next to where I kept my boat, fogged several motors that he kept outdoors in his parking lot under tarps. I saw him fire one up that had been fogged over 10 years ago. It started and ran, while smoking out the whole neighborhood for a few minutes. Then ran like a champ once it cleared up. He sold it after the guy saw it run. Use a product that is made for what you want to do with it.,,
 
I would get a quart of HPL's EC and squirt about 4 ounces on top of each piston and turn the crank occasionally.
I have a potential ring stuck as well.
I injected some HPL EC in my diesel to support a compression test.
I’m curious if for unsticking the rings, if this is the best agent - don’t we want something lower viscosity ?
Like maybe EC or ATF cut with B-12 or acetone ?
If it’s rust, grease, or carbon, will the EC solve them to get the ring moving ?
If its carbon sticking the rings (and it usually is) the HPL EC should at least soften the carbon and allow it to be carried away by its own oil film.
HPL EC is a 20/30 grade oil with a diesel addpack to provide all of the AW, etc stuff to prevent any bore wear.
I think it is thin enough to work itself into the ringpack.
Is the EC solely a diesel add pack, or does the base oil or other adds aid in freeing and “dissolving” (maybe really dispersing ? )
carbon beyond what an HDEO add pack can do ?
I put EC into the cylinder recently when I did a wet compression and leakdown.
I ran the engine at idle less than a minute before I pulled the prechamber.
Can you guys explain what all the abbreviations above mean ?
( English is not my native language. )
I have a Petrol/Gasoline engine where all the oil scraper rings are stuck/stuck together
and I'm trying to find a solution that will at least help a little and dissolves the coke/carbon deposits and washes them away.
The problem is far too narrow oil scraper rings with too small holes ( but I won't open the engine ).
( The engine has only 150,000 Km / 93 200 Miles. )
 
Can you guys explain what all the abbreviations above mean ?
( English is not my native language. )
I have a Petrol/Gasoline engine where all the oil scraper rings are stuck/stuck together
and I'm trying to find a solution that will at least help a little and dissolves the coke/carbon deposits and washes them away.
The problem is far too narrow oil scraper rings with too small holes ( but I won't open the engine ).
( The engine has only 150,000 Km / 93 200 Miles. )
HPL = High Performance Lubricants
EC = Engine Cleaner
ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid
B-12 = Berryman’s B-12 chemool solvent
AW = Anti-wear
HDEO = Heavy Duty Engine Oil (generally diesel truck oil)

The theory is to get the right cleaning/lubing components down there to dissolve/disperse the deposits or rust and lubricate the rings so they can move.
 
...Is the EC solely a diesel add pack, or does the base oil or other adds aid in freeing and “dissolving” (maybe really dispersing?) carbon beyond what an HDEO add pack can do?
One of the base oils is a cleaning ester which is effective at softening and solving carbon.
 
Last edited:
The WD40 is most likely the culprit. It dries and leaves behind a slightly tacky film barrier which retards oxidation and corrosion. Ironically, you may well be able to use WD40 again to loosen the rings; typically, any product similar to this can dissolve itself. Though other choices may do a better job. I cannot imagine that it's the gasoline; it hasn't sat long enough to do what you describe.

We shouldn't be too hard on WD40; it did exactly what it's supposed to do. Can't really blame the product for that. I use it often on my firearms when I want to store them long term; realizing that I'm going to have to clean them well before the next use.
I’d repeat the “like dissolves like” sentiments - we apply this in industrial cleaning. Clean oil to remove oil with solids - surfactants to remove the clean oil in preparation for coating etc …
 
Back
Top Bottom