Rings stuck in grooves

[Winger4647]

I just completed a head gasket change on a Ford 400 engine. I noticed the tops of the pistons were well carboned up when the heads were off. The engine sat for close to 2 months open BUT I did spray the walls down with wd40. After finishing I attempted to start and found I have no compression.

I was told by a Ford guy here that the rings have stuck into the grooves and is caused by the bad gas we are sold. He advised me to set the #1 piston 1/2 way down (the rest will then be about the same) and cover the tops of the pistons with a homemade cleaner he told me how to make. Is there a commercial product that will definitely work like B12 Chemtool or Miracle Mystery oil or a combination of something?

He tells me this is a real common problem yet I find very little information on the net regarding and the process to complete. Appreciate any feedback you might have or where to look next.

 

[Astro14]

B12 chem tool seems to be a favorite.

I have to wonder at the role of WD-40 in this problem - I have seen month old WD-40 turn into hard, sticky goo. Absolute junk. I use it to clean off tools, but I wipe it off right then and there.

If you spray WD-40 onto a mechanism - and let it sit, it gums right up. Horrible stuff.

My choice for cylinder walls, or other steel automotive parts, is a spray oil. Remoil is available at Lowe’s, as is Liquid Wrench lubricating oil. Lots of good spray oils exist.

 

[Winger4647]

Frankly I wondered about the WD40 myself but nobody made issue of it I spoke to. Have any idea the procedure for using the Chemtool?

Thanks for responding.

 

[jetman]

I just completed a head gasket change on a Ford 400 engine. I noticed the tops of the pistons were well carboned up when the heads were off. The engine sat for close to 2 months open BUT I did spray the walls down with wd40. After finishing I attempted to start and found I have no compression.

I was told by a Ford guy here that the rings have stuck into the grooves and is caused by the bad gas we are sold. He advised me to set the #1 piston 1/2 way down (the rest will then be about the same) and cover the tops of the pistons with a homemade cleaner he told me how to make. Is there a commercial product that will definitely work like B12 Chemtool or Miracle Mystery oil or a combination of something?

He tells me this is a real common problem yet I find very little information on the net regarding and the process to complete. Appreciate any feedback you might have or where to look next.

Used this on 2 of my vehicles:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/20-oil-consumption-fix-success-story.373196/#post-6616005

 

[Astro14]

Understanding that I’ve not done it, because I have not faced your problem, if it were me - two bottles of B12, with 1/4 bottle in each cylinder though the sparkplug hole, with the engine as you describe, and let it sit overnight. Then drain the oil, to get rid of any solvent that drained down, refill, crank it with the plugs out (to get rid of any in the cylinder itself, and minimize the chances of hydrolock) install the plugs, start it, and see what you’ve got.

 

[dnewton3]

The WD40 is most likely the culprit. It dries and leaves behind a slightly tacky film barrier which retards oxidation and corrosion. Ironically, you may well be able to use WD40 again to loosen the rings; typically, any product similar to this can dissolve itself. Though other choices may do a better job. I cannot imagine that it's the gasoline; it hasn't sat long enough to do what you describe.

We shouldn't be too hard on WD40; it did exactly what it's supposed to do. Can't really blame the product for that. I use it often on my firearms when I want to store them long term; realizing that I'm going to have to clean them well before the next use.

 

[Jetronic]

B12 chem tool seems to be a favorite.

I have to wonder at the role of WD-40 in this problem - I have seen month old WD-40 turn into hard, sticky goo. Absolute junk. I use it to clean off tools, but I wipe it off right then and there.

If you spray WD-40 onto a mechanism - and let it sit, it gums right up. Horrible stuff.

My choice for cylinder walls, or other steel automotive parts, is a spray oil. Remoil is available at Lowe’s, as is Liquid Wrench lubricating oil. Lots of good spray oils exist.

It does look a bit like spray-on wax doesn't it?

 

[Boomer]

WD-40 is made to displace water (WD = Water Displacing). It is not intended as a lubricant, long term rust protector , etc. It does what it is supposed to do very well but folks seem to think it is good for all kinds of other stuff.

 

[JohnnyG]

Highly unlikely that this can be blamed on gasoline.
FWIW, GM used to sell a product for the "piston soak" process to free stuck rings.

On another note, there is a spray oil product for winterizing outboard motors. In the future I'd use that instead of WD40.

 

[Rand]

Backup a little...
wd-40 caused "no compression"?

I use wd-40 a ton(but not for this).. what mechanism is causing 0 compression

 

[Winger4647]

Backup a little...
wd-40 caused "no compression"?

I use wd-40 a ton(but not for this).. what mechanism is causing 0 compression

According to a backyard mechanic here that buys a lot of Ford Motors from the junk yard he sees this all the time. Usually though the piston itself is stuck. But he claims the carbon buildup I saw on the top of the pistons is also on the rings and it hardened, especially sitting open for a couple of months. He suggested his "mix" of 1 qt diesel fuel to 3 qts ATF. Works for him every time I would rather buy something made for this issue if possible.

 

[Rand]

According to a backyard mechanic here that buys a lot of Ford Motors from the junk yard he sees this all the time. Usually though the piston itself is stuck. But he claims the carbon buildup I saw on the top of the pistons is also on the rings and it hardened, especially sitting open for a couple of months. He suggested his "mix" of 1 qt diesel fuel to 3 qts ATF. Works for him every time I would rather buy something made for this issue if possible.

so in the initial post . You wrote "no compression" but you meant no crank?

Did I miss something?

I would use berryman b12 as its cheap and available.
@Astro14 had some good advice.

 

[Winger4647]

so in the initial post . You wrote "no compression" but you meant no crank?

Did I miss something?

I would use berryman b12 as its cheap and available.
@Astro14 had some good advice.

Actually it tried to start the first time I turned it over but the dizzy was 30 advanced. It backfired and then nothing. Checked compression and was zero on 1, 2. and 3 before my hands froze.

 

[Rand]

Actually it tried to start the first time I turned it over but the dizzy was 30 advanced. It backfired and then nothing. Checked compression and was zero on 1, 2. and 3 before my hands froze.

so how did the logic jump occur that it was the rings or wd 40 giving you 0 compression?
I'm missing something.. getting a "does not compute" in my head.

 

[Jdeere562]

I would think even with the rings removed and pistons alone, there would be *some* compression. But you have zero?
Does not seem possible if it is cranking over and everything is moving.

 

[PontiacHO]

Personally have seen the Ford 351 & 400 M shuck a timing gear when starting. Cylinders where the valves are open will have zero compression. Some 289, 302 & 351 W engines would also bend the open valves when that happened.

 

[Winger4647]

I would think even with the rings removed and pistons alone, there would be *some* compression. But you have zero?
Does not seem possible if it is cranking over and everything is moving.

I thought maybe something wrong with the compression gauge but holding my finger over the holes feels nothing. It spins over like there are no spark plugs in it.

 

[awguy]

I'd use Marvel Mystery oil.

 

[Winger4647]

Personally have seen the Ford 351 & 400 M shuck a timing gear when starting. Cylinders where the valves are open will have zero compression. Some 289, 302 & 351 W engines would also bend the open valves when that happened.

When the valves are closed on #1 she is close to TDC as best as I can tell. I should have removed the gauge and stuck a wire down the spark hole to see if the piston was up, was not thinking at the time.

 

[Jdeere562]

Have you verified the camshaft is rotating and the valves are opening and closing?