I have seriously been considering buying my own wheel weights. The Hoffman power weights are super easy to remove. Pull the whole strip at once.That's why I always pull all weights before I get new tires.
I have seriously been considering buying my own wheel weights. The Hoffman power weights are super easy to remove. Pull the whole strip at once.That's why I always pull all weights before I get new tires.
Yes, GM required the numbers for warranty and we printed off a copy for the customers WO.Is it possible, or typical, to get any sort of print-out from the balancer as to the final balance specs on the tires?
I have a pair of tires to mount on rims (215-75-14 on vintage steel magnum rims) and I didn't know about this road force balance so now I'm going to call around but I just don't trust these shops to do this or do it properly if I drop off the tires/rims in the AM and pick them up in the PM. Around here I feel that I need to watch them do it, absolutely zero trust for these places. I'm not a regular garage or dealership customer, I do my own repairs but tire mounting and balancing is something I can't do at home.
You should try that with factory GM stick on weights... especially when it's cold out... I also like those style stick on weightsI have seriously been considering buying my own wheel weights. The Hoffman power weights are super easy to remove. Pull the whole strip at once.
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It's always the tire itself. If it wasn't, regular spin balance would work just fine.Sometimes its just the tire itself. The dudes could balance 3 but 1 was out of round, so he just did his best, it was on the front.
Road force match mounting works best with "slightly bent" wheels, and is not effective with "perfectly round" wheels.TCame out with 7, 12, 13 and 18 lb. and no wheel/tire took more than 25gr. of weight. Took me a bit of time, and some sweat equity, but even with the slightly bent wheels, it runs very smooth.
So you're saying the problem was the wheel wasn't centered on the axle.Much to my surprise and delight, the hub rings seemed to have done the trick.
It appears so. Tire and wheels off the truck multiple times with the same issue. But now it is gone. I will say there is a pretty large size difference, 77.8 mm hub and 106.1 mm opening in the center bore of wheel.So you're saying the problem was the wheel wasn't centered on the axle.
@panthermike - so is this the tundra in your sig? Are the lug nuts acorn, conical or flat? I know Toyota oem is flat while most aftermarket rims are conical or acorn? This is really cool information that the centering rings resolved it. There are plenty of folks who say that conical or acorn lugs will self-center the wheel.
The problem with this is they generally just make up a number. I've had to ask for photos of the computer screen in the past and printouts to accompany the work order. It's all black magic stuff in the end.I think I'm going to bring it in tomorrow and have them force match. I will for sure ask them to write these values down. To be fair, I think the majority of people would not even notice. But us here do notice, it's only right around the 70mph area (which is where i'm at mostly on the interstate). I like a smooth ride and these bad boys were $$$. I feel like if the Westlakes on my Wife's Mazda can be balanced well at walmart, a Michelin certainly can on a RF![]()
Not entirely true. My understanding is that the machine is actually operator dependent. It can be screwed up just the same as an oil change at the same dealership - which happens often.Sort of. They rotate the tire to match the "high" portion of the tire with the "low" portion of the wheel. Road force deals with roundness of everything.
The Hunter screen will actually tell them what to do step by step - you don't need to tell them. However if there under their "failure" value - they will simply stop rather than try to get it better. Time is money.
Haha wow I never even thought of that, but makes perfect sense.Road force match mounting works best with "slightly bent" wheels, and is not effective with "perfectly round" wheels.
The HMI on the ones at my local Discount Tire look like this. There pretty intuitive.Not entirely true. My understanding is that the machine is actually operator dependent. It can be screwed up just the same as an oil change at the same dealership - which happens often.
Google around for the manual to one of these machines, they are not for the faint of heart.
What's intuitive about this? Here's the manual for their premier Elite model. The same people that forget to torque your oil drain plug are the same people operating this machine. I've got three college degrees and this hurts my head to look atThe HMI on the ones at my local Discount Tire look like this. There pretty intuitive.
Possibly there are older or less feature rich versions that are harder?