Right hydro on zero turn weaker Maybe?

[MountainManDan]

I Just would like to Ask as I have never Owned Used or New Zero Turn - just Picked a nice Zero Turn with 2.6 Hrs -
I Believe it to be more 18 hours , but I'm still Checking into all that !

Anyhow slightly weaker on right side Hydro - Shop Adjusted it as it went back after 1 Hr of Testing . .

Weird thing they Never gave Me any Paper work .. Odd has a Warranty so I was Told ..
Well We'll have to Demand that ..


MY Question is Why do I see & Read about all these Mower Guys changing Hydro Gear Oil in First 5-10 hrs
On Zero Turn Mowers as Hydro-Gear Transmission on Tractors - i do not see anything about Early Hydro Gear Oil being Changed Out ?

It is Just a Break In Thing that some Oil Corps. Started ?
Oil Filter Organizations Pushing this or Has there Been Real Proof that this is a Big Plus & Extends Life
or Either Oil or Trans-Axles ?

As I have Not seen any Proof - I've searched & Read 40 Places . .

New Zero Turn Owner with ZT-3200 Commercial Rated Units .. Runs Good 9 + Mph
I did Mow 10 min. - In Tall Grass after doing My Yard - as near by wasn't done for 3+ weeks

Thank You for all Replies . .

PS:
Next Time I'm IR Temperature Testing everything . . ADDING PICTURE OF OIL
AS I HAVE NO IDEA - COLOR of Hydro-Gear Oil - Factory Oil

 

[doitmyself]

Mostly I see manuals recommending an early break in change at 75 to 100 hours, then going to a 400 +/- hour interval and/or sometimes annually. I'm not aware of 5 to 10 hour changes.

 

[martinq]

Mostly I see manuals recommending an early break in change at 75 to 100 hours, then going to a 400 +/- hour interval and/or sometimes annually. I'm not aware of 5 to 10 hour changes.

I've seen several hydro / hydraulic service manuals that call for a break in fluid change at 50 hrs. In most cases I would recommend a change at 5-10 hrs and then again at 50-100 hrs.

The sooner you get the contamination out of the system (metal wear, mfg debris, etc) the less damage is created by it. Add magnets where you can as they will clean 24hrs a day, not just when running.

TLDR : A clean system will shed less wear particles, live longer and fail less. Magnets are helpful.

 

[JavierH19]

Check to make sure it's not those silly little things that limit handlebar range that are on a long threaded shaft. Even the littlest bit of limit can have a big effect on the speed at least when close to the max not close to resting position. I removed them entirely since the stupid nuts would keep loosening themselves from the vibration no matter how much I tightened them so they'd limit themselves with time.

 

[JTK]

I can't tell much from the pic, but it looks OK to me. Could you try operating another identical machine to see if it behaves the same way?

As much as I like to maintain my transmissions, hydraulic systems and gear boxes, doing a drain/fill at 5-10hrs seems too early.

ZT-3200's must be the deluxe models if they'll run ~10mph. I owned a machine with ZT-2800's the first year they came out. Nice drives.

 

[User_19876]

Be sure to lubricate all of the joints in the control linkage. It’s easy for one joint to be stiff and simulate poor propulsion, dragging, or misadjustment of the proportioning. I’ve also had fasteners overtightened and nylon washers omitted.

Depending on your hydro system, it may or may not need a very early fluid change. On my Schiller/Bobcat WB, the first change is at five hours. Every one hundred hours after that. My machine has independent wheel motors, but they are Hydro-Gear, not Parker.

 

[oldcodger]

How are you determining weaker? Does the machine have steering dampers? I have seen mowers with different feeling steering levers and it was the difference in the dampers. When new my mower had slightly different feel between lt. and rt, steering. After 14 years I replaced each damper and have a slightly different feeI now. Would go with 50 hours to the first hydro fluid change. Those things are not subjected to combustion contamination.

 

[MountainManDan]

I can't tell much from the pic, but it looks OK to me. Could you try operating another identical machine to see if it behaves the same way?

As much as I like to maintain my transmissions, hydraulic systems and gear boxes, doing a drain/fill at 5-10hrs seems too early.

ZT-3200's must be the deluxe models if they'll run ~10mph. I owned a machine with ZT-2800's the first year they came out. Nice drives.

Yeah after I posted that Up - & Looked at it ~ I ~ through well it's OK But Not Great Pic seeing Reflection in it also ..

So I'll Try again on Pic - & - Checking on Magnets - in - ( Mean Time I'll Ad I Believe I Mentioned ) - we did taken
It back to Dealer : They
spent some time doing Proper Inspection & adjusting this Time & Testing it's approx 60% Better & Called Warranty House
to Make sure They Noted any Issues ( It's on File )

Originally when backing up Mid RPM Unit would Drift Firmly to My Left & Going Forward Unit Drifted to My Right - that's
When I Returned It ..

Now on low grade 7% in Low RPM If Backing Full On - Unit will Drift to My Right - showing Right Unit has been adjusted ..
Mid RPM Unit Backs Much straighter - some - Drift to My Right , so I believe Right Hydro is only slightly weaker ..

I'm Going to Test by Changing Out Filter on Right Unit from Factory to Higher Flowing Filter ..

I did some Research on Topic & Made some List of Filters - Please Let Me Know what Your True Experience is
As I have None in Actual Application Applied :

First Chart is Based on Flow Numbers :

Second Chart is Based on Better Ability to Filter :

Third List Gallon/Min. Rating on those Filters so We all May see Actual Values so These Number Used For Your
Application : Normalized Mean at 100 Degree C @ Normal Temps

 

[MountainManDan]

Here's Better Pic of - 6-7 hr. Factory Hydro-Gear Oil in ZT-3200 . .
They say 9.5Mph , but Mowing is more like 6Mph - My Tractor Rated @ 5.5 Mph K-66 is does more like ( 4 Mph Maybe )

Two Machines are within 25lbs of Each Other . .

Better Pic of Oil - which I Find - Strange - Do to Fact of It's Smell ?

Smelling : Factory Oil Smells ( Medical ) like it has ~ Killing Agent in it for ~ Algae
I have at Least 5 other Oils in Metal Cabinet in Cottage ( We call it that just Deluxe Shed ) - None Smell like this . .

Trans-axle Volvo Oil = No
Hydraulic Tractor Oil = No
Gear Oil 75W-90 = No
Motor Oil 5W-30 = No
Automatic Oil ATF = No

 

[MountainManDan]

Be sure to lubricate all of the joints in the control linkage. It’s easy for one joint to be stiff and simulate poor propulsion, dragging, or misadjustment of the proportioning. I’ve also had fasteners overtightened and nylon washers omitted.

Depending on your hydro system, it may or may not need a very early fluid change. On my Schiller/Bobcat WB, the first change is at five hours. Every one hundred hours after that. My machine has independent wheel motors, but they are Hydro-Gear, not Parker.

Looking for those Washers - I found few - but not everywhere . . Good Eye

 

[JTK]

I did some Research on Topic & Made some List of Filters - Please Let Me Know what Your True Experience is
As I have None in Actual Application Applied...

I never did change the fluid or filters on my ZT2800s. I didn't own my Cub Z-Force 44. long enough to. Sold the home at the time and the mower went with it. I'm all for quality aftermarket fluids and filters, but I don't see that as being your solution here.

Sorry if I missed it, but differences in tire inflation, tire condition, etc will effect the machine's tracking as well.

 

[MountainManDan]

Good Items I did Air Pressure test as Ride wasn't as Good as I though it should - Fronts were 22 psi & rears were 16 psi
Maybe that's why is seems so Fast .. Rears are Now 11 Psi & fronts at 18 psi .. I was Informed By Tech @ Dealer to Run Fronts Harder If You have some Hills - have 5-7 Degree entire Place and 2 Area's 14 Degrees with short 20 Degree Area Drop Down . .

I did more Looking & Called about Oil Smell ~ this is what I Found on that : Wow that's Long List !