reverse "creep" on incline while in Drive?

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Hi:
So I'm new to using an old set of Rhino Ramps on my 2015 Corolla. There is no way I can get under the car to do oil changes like on previous cars. There doesn't seem to be too much room for error in placement of the ramps relative to the front wheels since last time one tire ended up pretty close to the raised edge on one of the sides of the ramps at the fully elevated level area at the top (hope that makes sense). Today, I was about half way up the ramps and, thinking I could continue to proceed when ready again, put the car in Park with the hand brake on, and got out to check the alignment. When I got back in and put in back in Drive with no gas (just idle), it started to creep down the ramps before I could apply gas. From what I've read on the internet, is this because there is not enough torque to fully engage the CVT transmission at just idle? I guess with experience, I'll learn to get it properly aligned and just get the car up the ramps in one smooth movement.
 
Its not easy but Ive usually done ok..it just takes a steady and gentle foot on the gas and quick brake. Luckily the 07 is a bit higher than ur 2015 so i have recently been doing changes without ramps..they do make the work easier but being as narrow as they are makes it tricky with non stock tires although id imagine regular size tires would likely still be tricky.
 
Here is my process.
I bring the car into the garage
I make sure the wheels are straight ahead
I place the ramps against each front wheel, centered and straight. Just eyeball the ramp against the side of the car to ensure it is straight
Gently give it gas to creep up the ramps
Once you have reached the top, put in neutral
Once the car is on the top and has stopped moving, put in park, firm parking brake is set.
Chock the rear wheels and done.
 
Originally Posted By: Danno
Here is my process.
I bring the car into the garage
I make sure the wheels are straight ahead
I place the ramps against each front wheel, centered and straight. Just eyeball the ramp against the side of the car to ensure it is straight
Gently give it gas to creep up the ramps
Once you have reached the top, put in neutral
Once the car is on the top and has stopped moving, put in park, firm parking brake is set.
Chock the rear wheels and done.


We think alike. I do it exactly the same.
 
Originally Posted By: hpb
Lots of automatic transmissions will allow the vehicle to roll backwards when in drive, whether CVT or traditional automatic.


This.

It is what it is and a careful mix of right foot and left foot or parking brake will get up the ramp without rolling down. Very common on modern cars.
 
^^Everything everyone has said so far^^ and my thought on the subject of "backwards creep".

At a red light pointing uphill I remove my foot from the brake and let the car creep rearward.
I do this occasionally because I believe it may churn the fluid in the torque converter possibly "loosening" dirt.

Thoughts? And if you think I'm off target, just say so. Kira
 
Quote:
At a red light pointing uphill I remove my foot from the brake and let the car creep rearward.
You should only do that when the person next to you is looking at your car. That will give them a good scare!!
 
"Room for error" depends on the ramp type. Until recently for years I exclusively used metal Ultra Ramp with extenders for low profile vehicles. I never had a problem, but they do require a good eyeballing to line up with the line of front and back tires. Yes, experience helps the process over time. Also if unsure about your technique and ability having a helper available outside is beneficial. Always take your time.

The roll back you experienced with alignment check is normal IME. Need to keep foot on the accelerator, enough to keep the car from rolling back when the emergency brake is released after checking. Find it the same for AT and CVT.

A couple years I ago purchased the heavy duty 16k Rhinos on sale. They are significantly wider than my metal Ultra ramps and allow more leeway in vehicle alignment. Still taking time for best lineup first, is best practice.

And perhaps an obvious point, but I always start with the end of the ramps firmly engaged under both tires.
 
I recall sweating it out during the test for my drivers license--for the hill start. Dad's Astrovan didn't have an issue with hill starts. It'd take right off the line, no rolling backwards. Wasn't high idle but a tight convertor, I guess. Got my license anyhow, not sure I did all the steps correct but still got my piece of paper.

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
At a red light pointing uphill I remove my foot from the brake and let the car creep rearward.
You should only do that when the person next to you is looking at your car. That will give them a good scare!!


I recall doing that all the time, driving stick.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
^^Everything everyone has said so far^^ and my thought on the subject of "backwards creep".

At a red light pointing uphill I remove my foot from the brake and let the car creep rearward.
I do this occasionally because I believe it may churn the fluid in the torque converter possibly "loosening" dirt.

Thoughts? And if you think I'm off target, just say so. Kira

I doubt that does anything, if you think about the difference in speed between the front and back of the torque converter when idling at say 750 rpm would be 750. If you're rolling backwards at say 1 mph and the backside of the torque converter is now running backwards at approx 100rpm so the difference between the front and the back is now 850rpm. So no different than holding the brake and giving it a little gas. Not much dirt in there anyway; too much fluid moving around for something to settle out.
 
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