Anyone ever used that Restore stuff in their crankcase?
Restore?
- Thread starter FiveOBroncO
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1 word: yuck!
I want to know about this too, since I've used it before I found BITOG, without any noticable diferences (good or bad). What's in it that makes it good/bad for your engine? I searched and found nothing on here.
thx
thx
Do you still recall those ad during NASCAR's intermission (TeeVee show) where they would throw in a Restore ad, proportedly claiming that for use in worn/old/tired engine where it would "coat" the cylinder walls to "restore" it's performance.
Well, I got bad news for you: 1> nothing will coat a cylinder wall if it's worn out of shape, scuffed or pitted. That's why in HD trucks dept there's something called "re-sleeving"; 2> combustion pressure and temperature is so great that nothing can stick/adhere on to your combustion chamber or cylinder wall, period. Even motor oil that seeps past the oil control rings get burned resulting in blue smoke.
If, for the rest of the formula, it claimed to carry extra EP additives (such as ZDDP, moly, etc.) then why not go for a bottle of VSOT?
I'm really surprised that Restore is still out in the market, just like those "rat pellets" that you drop into the spark plug holes and it claimed to coat the cylinder walls to restore proper compression.....
Well, I got bad news for you: 1> nothing will coat a cylinder wall if it's worn out of shape, scuffed or pitted. That's why in HD trucks dept there's something called "re-sleeving"; 2> combustion pressure and temperature is so great that nothing can stick/adhere on to your combustion chamber or cylinder wall, period. Even motor oil that seeps past the oil control rings get burned resulting in blue smoke.
If, for the rest of the formula, it claimed to carry extra EP additives (such as ZDDP, moly, etc.) then why not go for a bottle of VSOT?
I'm really surprised that Restore is still out in the market, just like those "rat pellets" that you drop into the spark plug holes and it claimed to coat the cylinder walls to restore proper compression.....
I would be afraid of using it, out of fear it may clog something up. I don't think small bits of metal running around in the engine is a good thing. It would also mess up any UOA. To me its a case of trying to fix a mechanical prob without doing anything mechanical.
The claims they make sound alot like those of Slick 50. The whole idea that having this stuff floating in the engine makes it bond onto things and coat them. Even if it COULD(and it can't), is that a good idea?!? Imagine the uneven coating it would leave on precisely engineered machinery.
The claims they make sound alot like those of Slick 50. The whole idea that having this stuff floating in the engine makes it bond onto things and coat them. Even if it COULD(and it can't), is that a good idea?!? Imagine the uneven coating it would leave on precisely engineered machinery.
My brother had an 86 Fiero with the 2.5 Iron Duke about 8-9 years ago. When he bought it, the poor thing blew huge clouds of blue smoke. He changed the oil, added a can of Restore and the smoking almost completely stopped. I highly doubt that an oil change alone could have had that much of an effect so I'm pretty sure Restore did some benefical in that case.
I had a 1978 Cadillac Elderado(130,000 m) that was using some oil and running "TIRED" , it was a winter beater car, so I put some Restore in it and it made a big difference. The oil usage just about stopped and it ran noticely smoother. I dont endorse any engine additive, Ive tried a few, Slick 50 is garbage and so is Rislone, STP and Motor Honey did nothing but make the engine quiet till it got to the bottom of the pan,just about anything else I tried was a waste, but Iam a true believer if you have a tired high milelage car in Restore.
If you want the bang for your buck
1)rislone
2)CD-2 maxxx
BOTH available to Canadian Tire and WalMart
1)rislone
2)CD-2 maxxx
BOTH available to Canadian Tire and WalMart
This subject has been discussed before. Unfortunately the current forum search function isn't as user friendly as the old one was.
As you can see some have seen short term gains using Restore. Long term the results weren't as glowing.
I've used it myself in the past but would be hesitant to now, especially on any vehicle I intended to keep. If the vehicle is important to you try Auto-Rx instead.
As you can see some have seen short term gains using Restore. Long term the results weren't as glowing.
I've used it myself in the past but would be hesitant to now, especially on any vehicle I intended to keep. If the vehicle is important to you try Auto-Rx instead.
Reminds me, was browsing a forum. Someone was talking about a bad lifter, someone said
rislone, CD-2 OR Auto-Rx.. the people from land of BITOG swear by it"
rislone, CD-2 OR Auto-Rx.. the people from land of BITOG swear by it"
I think it's to engines like Earl Scheib is to paint jobs. Worth a try on a beater.
very popular in the UK with many toyota owner clubs
esp certain V6S .
No question in my mind I'd go Auto-RX if it where mine EVEN with a beater but I do know 3-4 people who have run the stuff past 90,000K additional with excellent results and no complaints .They typically reapply every 40-60K .
esp certain V6S .
No question in my mind I'd go Auto-RX if it where mine EVEN with a beater but I do know 3-4 people who have run the stuff past 90,000K additional with excellent results and no complaints .They typically reapply every 40-60K .
I used it in a 87 ford van with a 5.0, the engine had a cold start knock, it would make noise for about 2 or 3 minutes then quiet down, after adding the restore the knock went away and never came back. I sold it with 180k to a co worker who drove it out to well over 200k. so It works? I guess in some cases. I have not had the urge to use it in any thing else since then.
I used to use this stuff all the time in my old Ford probe and even when I first got my 900. I used it based on the fact that Car Talk's Tom and Ray Maggliozzi recommended it-saying it was the only additive their customers had consistently swore by. Glad I found BITOG!
I used to use it in a 1978 Chevy Van (350) with 230,000
miles on it. The van only burned oil at start up because
the valve guides were shot. After adding restore it would
run in to the #8 Cylinder and foul the plug. When this
stuff burns it leaves a coking like residue on the plugs
so bad that can't even clean them
miles on it. The van only burned oil at start up because
the valve guides were shot. After adding restore it would
run in to the #8 Cylinder and foul the plug. When this
stuff burns it leaves a coking like residue on the plugs
so bad that can't even clean them
was just running through the search function and came across this..
I used restore in my pre-bitog days on my ole rodeo, at that time something like 165,000 miles. It was the only additive at the time that made an IMMEDIATE DRAMATIC effect... I was trying additives to see if anything would quiet down the infamous collapsed hydrolic adjuster ticking. It DID make the engine noise free for awhile. I used it for a few changes, and the ticking returned after about 6000 miles. I think it was my pursuit of a band-aid fix that I found bitog. I ended up ARXing and switching to 0w30 GC. The tick is now a mild reasonable tapping and has been that way for a long time, no complaints...
I thought I would mention though, that I had some oil analysis done several oil changes AFTER restore had been used, and severely high amounts of LEAD and COPPER were coming up in the analysis. I did a follow-up analysis later on and the LEAD and COPPER were reduced some.. I think that stuff sticks around in there a LONG time. Blackstone Labs did the testing, and Dyson analyzed and discussed results with me... He said that Restore is full of lead and copper.
Honestly, I couldn't say whether or not "Restore" is a good things or not. I have heard enough things, and seen things with my own eyes and ears that tell me it definetely changes SOMETHING in a big way. Long term it might be horrible for engines, but maybe trying to get a last year out of an old smoker, trying to pass emissions, this might just be the trick. I don't consider Restore "Snake" oil really, because it does actually DO something, unlike so many like Slick50 that do absolutely nothing.
I used restore in my pre-bitog days on my ole rodeo, at that time something like 165,000 miles. It was the only additive at the time that made an IMMEDIATE DRAMATIC effect... I was trying additives to see if anything would quiet down the infamous collapsed hydrolic adjuster ticking. It DID make the engine noise free for awhile. I used it for a few changes, and the ticking returned after about 6000 miles. I think it was my pursuit of a band-aid fix that I found bitog. I ended up ARXing and switching to 0w30 GC. The tick is now a mild reasonable tapping and has been that way for a long time, no complaints...
I thought I would mention though, that I had some oil analysis done several oil changes AFTER restore had been used, and severely high amounts of LEAD and COPPER were coming up in the analysis. I did a follow-up analysis later on and the LEAD and COPPER were reduced some.. I think that stuff sticks around in there a LONG time. Blackstone Labs did the testing, and Dyson analyzed and discussed results with me... He said that Restore is full of lead and copper.
Honestly, I couldn't say whether or not "Restore" is a good things or not. I have heard enough things, and seen things with my own eyes and ears that tell me it definetely changes SOMETHING in a big way. Long term it might be horrible for engines, but maybe trying to get a last year out of an old smoker, trying to pass emissions, this might just be the trick. I don't consider Restore "Snake" oil really, because it does actually DO something, unlike so many like Slick50 that do absolutely nothing.
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