Replacing Toyota Red (2003 Tundra)

[mechanicx]

Originally Posted By: FL-400S
No I didnt get a T flush. I will just fill with hose or distilled and drive around a few miles with the heat on and then drain again (once cooled of course).

I did this with the truck (on 5th flush with distilled now) and this one should come out barely pink or even clear. Then I will fill with Peak.


OK sounds good. After 3-4 refills, warm ups and radiator drains you should have all the old out. I just think the T-flush is easier and quicker, but a series of radiator drains works too.

 

[FL-400S]

I might have to get that T-flush part because I cant seem to get that white plug to open. I put a 1/4" extension in there and twist counter clockwise and it will spin but doesnt back out. Im not very amused with GM right now. It was SOOO easy to change the coolant on the toyota. Every time I open the simple stopcock about 8-9 quarts comes out (out of 10.5) if I wait long enough. And the coolant still looks new after 7 years. The dexcool in the chevy looks like poop. My own fault for not changing it sooner, but we all know about dexcool.

 

[qship1996]

Just remove lower radiator hose and let drain if you cant remove radiator drainplug.

 

[FL-400S]

I pulled the plug out with pliers. Doesn't look like it screws in at all. Now Im trying to clean out the overflow tank as best I can. Its got some greasy poop on the inside and its about impossible to clean other than flushing with hot water and dish soap. Looks like a new one online is about $30. Should I pour some gasoline in it to break down the sludge or just get a new one? Kidding of course.

I put the garden hose into the radiator filler tube and let er rip. Water was spouting everywhere even from the heater hoses!

 

[mechanicx]

Yeah that drain plug is tricky. It has a metal dow pin at 90 degrees that goes through swirl channel in the radiator. It's hard to explain but you have to turn it a little bit to align the dow pin to the channel then pull outward on it. Sounds like you got it lose.

I'd think Dexcool would normally have a longer life than Toyota red. If it looks bad then something was probably being deteriorated. Is this on the '02 Malibu?

 

[FL-400S]

Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Yeah that drain plug is tricky. It has a metal dow pin at 90 degrees that goes through swirl channel in the radiator. It's hard to explain but you have to turn it a little bit to align the dow pin to the channel then pull outward on it. Sounds like you got it lose.

I'd think Dexcool would normally have a longer life than Toyota red. If it looks bad then something was probably being deteriorated. Is this on the '02 Malibu?


Yes 02 malibu.

Sounds to me like I broke it. I better get a new one to see what this dow pin is that your talking about. I tried to unscrew it before I removed it. that might have snapped off the pins of which you speak. Thats why I thought it was a [censored] design, I wasnt sure how the plug was held in!

 

[mechanicx]

I couldn't find a pic of the drain valve and radiator assembly. All I had handy is a pic of a Dorman, it's black and has the thumb wings but fits the application. You can see the metal pin. It slides into a groove and you turn the valve clockwise to lock it in as the groove spirals. The weird thing is the groove goes counter-clockwise some too and I think that makes it easier to break.

 

[mechanicx]

Originally Posted By: FL-400S
I put the garden hose into the radiator filler tube and let er rip. Water was spouting everywhere even from the heater hoses!


Did you unhook the heater hoses? With the T-flush I've mentioned, it's just a simple matter of cutting the heater inlet hose, which aren't hard to cut, and slipping the T-fiting in. Anyway with you mentioning the water going through the heater I was just thinking. If one stuck a water hose on full blast in the reservoir that might flush the block and heater alone? Even with the radiaror drain valve removed it can't drain the water fast enough so the pressure has to go some where. Maybe into the block and heater flushing it out. You could also even start the engine and the pump would help circulate through the heater and block. There are several ways to skin a cat or flush a cooling system lol. I'm just thinking a water hose in the reservoir might be the easiest.

 

[FL-400S]

Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I couldn't find a pic of the drain valve and radiator assembly. All I had handy is a pic of a Dorman, it's black and has the thumb wings but fits the application. You can see the metal pin. It slides into a groove and you turn the valve clockwise to lock it in as the groove spirals. The weird thing is the groove goes counter-clockwise some too and I think that makes it easier to break.

I ended up buying one of those at carquest since I did in fact break the pin off of mine. The dorman is a better part really, with the wing nut IMO. PArt number 61133. I did find the front block drain. Its a 14mm bolt about 2 inches to the right of the oil filter as you are facing the filter.

I dont think the system has nearly as much room as the manual says (13.6 qts). I think its more like 8-10. Anyway, its all done for now. I may drain and refill the radiator one more time in a few months. I think I will also change the oil (even though I just put in castrol syntec) after I change the fuel filter.

 

[mechanicx]

Yeah the thumb wingnut is how the earlier models were any way. It's simplier that way because once you have turned the wing nut to the horizontal you know it's positioned to be pulled striaght out.

The front block drain is the easy one to get to. It's the back one behind the transmission tailshaft that is a bear. I think the system does hold about 13 quarts overall and assuming you displaced most of the old antifreeze with water you want to get about 6.5 qrts of concentrate in there. That may require draining the radiator, opening the bleed screw and topping it after warm up, but you want to try to get close to 6.5 qts concentrate in.