1987 Toyota FJ60 coolant change - all metal radiator

[Zack1978]

Hi everyone,

I need to change the coolant in my 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser with an all metal radiator. I posted a similar thread to this one over eleven years ago but I can’t reply in that thread any longer.

I need to pick a coolant to use. It was easier to find traditional green coolant years ago, it is seemingly much harder now; the coolant landscape has changed. I want something that will protect and lengthen the life of my expensive all metal radiator. When my truck was built thirty-eight years ago, it had traditional green.

In my search for “green coolant” I was able to fine Peak Green 50/50 for Asian vehicles. That coolant seems to be the perfect fit, but I don’t know if it will protect the metal radiator. Does anyone have any specific knowledge about this Peak coolant? https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/p...t-50-50-prediluted-for-asian-vehicles---green

What other options might be suitable for my situation? I don’t much care about how long the coolant will last, I just want to protect the metal components with the best product.

Thank you

 

[wag123]

PEAK® CONVENTIONAL ANTIFREEZE + COOLANT is what you should use. It should be changed fairly often, but this is the disadvantage of using the correct fluid.
https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/p...onal-antifreeze-and-coolant/peak-conventional

 

[Nukeman7]

O'Reilly Auto Parts also stocks it in the concentrated form under their house label.

 

[ripcord]

Just about every auto parts store still has conventional green coolant but some may keep it in the back.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

The old green is still available. Peak and Zerex still make it, and you might still find some house brands, too.

 

[JHZR2]

What’s special about it being all metal? Is it aluminum, or copper?

I like John Deere Cool Gard II personally. Old fashioned green is god in your case if that is what was specified and is used in it. I’d just want to be sure that an “Asian green” wasn’t some dyed dexcool or hinds type II/toyota red/pink clone, just dyed green… I think you’re implying you want fully silicated traditional green coolant…

 

[Nyogtha]

Zerex makes an original green coolant. NAPA might be a place to ask about it.

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/pr...ng3p7FYTMoIvJ2-P0T8r9cgNHpuEymWxmvqk0H5b4bODx

 

[CarlB]

Zerex makes an original green coolant. NAPA might be a place to ask about it.

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/pr...ng3p7FYTMoIvJ2-P0T8r9cgNHpuEymWxmvqk0H5b4bODx

Rockauto is also a good source for Zerex.

 

[Nukeman7]

What’s special about it being all metal? Is it aluminum, or copper?

I like John Deere Cool Gard II personally. Old fashioned green is god in your case if that is what was specified and is used in it. I’d just want to be sure that an “Asian green” wasn’t some dyed dexcool or hinds type II/toyota red/pink clone, just dyed green… I think you’re implying you want fully silicated traditional green coolant…

The concern is only with a brass or copper radiator that is soldered together at the joints, not a welded aluminum unit. It is my understanding that the organic acid content in modern OAT, HOAT and PHOAT coolants will attack and compromise the solder joint. As such, I have only run the old school conventional silicated ethylene glycol coolant in my '97 Jeep Wrangler since replacing the OEM plastic/aluminum radiator with an all-brass CSF radiator in '99. Still no leaks after 26 years of daily driving.

 

[Zack1978]

Just about every auto parts store still has conventional green coolant but some may keep it in the back.

Seemingly none locally have it. The Auto Zone’s and Advance Auto’s no longer have it. I guess I need to try Napa.

 

[Zack1978]

Is the John Deere coolant a good choice?

 

[JHZR2]

The concern is only with a brass or copper radiator that is soldered together at the joints, not a welded aluminum unit. It is my understanding that the organic acid content in modern OAT, HOAT and PHOAT coolants will attack and compromise the solder joint. As such, I have only run the old school conventional silicated ethylene glycol coolant in my '97 Jeep Wrangler since replacing the OEM plastic/aluminum radiator with an all-brass CSF radiator in '99. Still no leaks after 26 years of daily driving.

I believe the nitrite is what attacks solders in those older designs. And many of the newer HD coolants specify whether they do or don’t.

Cool Gard II is a HOAT, silicated coolant with extremely low metals shedding.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

Zerx green or flush it and run G05.

 

[zulf200]

The local napa should have some, or any parts place selling to HD places.

You can probably use final charge too.

 

[Trav]

Coolguard II is perfect for old engines with copper, brass, platic and aluminum components. Flush the cooling system completely (I usually do it with thermostat out).

 

[dlundblad]

JD Coolgard is my pick for older vehicles as well.

 

[Nyogtha]

NAPA has original green in both concentrate and 50/50 mix, and it's on sale right now with free ship-to-store.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/searc...ate concentrate antifreeze/coolant&referer=v2