1987 Toyota FJ60 coolant change - all metal radiator

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Jun 13, 2006
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Location
NJ
Hi everyone,

I need to change the coolant in my 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser with an all metal radiator. I posted a similar thread to this one over eleven years ago but I can’t reply in that thread any longer.

I need to pick a coolant to use. It was easier to find traditional green coolant years ago, it is seemingly much harder now; the coolant landscape has changed. I want something that will protect and lengthen the life of my expensive all metal radiator. When my truck was built thirty-eight years ago, it had traditional green.

In my search for “green coolant” I was able to fine Peak Green 50/50 for Asian vehicles. That coolant seems to be the perfect fit, but I don’t know if it will protect the metal radiator. Does anyone have any specific knowledge about this Peak coolant? https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/p...t-50-50-prediluted-for-asian-vehicles---green

What other options might be suitable for my situation? I don’t much care about how long the coolant will last, I just want to protect the metal components with the best product.

Thank you
 
O'Reilly Auto Parts also stocks it in the concentrated form under their house label.

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What’s special about it being all metal? Is it aluminum, or copper?

I like John Deere Cool Gard II personally. Old fashioned green is god in your case if that is what was specified and is used in it. I’d just want to be sure that an “Asian green” wasn’t some dyed dexcool or hinds type II/toyota red/pink clone, just dyed green… I think you’re implying you want fully silicated traditional green coolant…
 
What’s special about it being all metal? Is it aluminum, or copper?

I like John Deere Cool Gard II personally. Old fashioned green is god in your case if that is what was specified and is used in it. I’d just want to be sure that an “Asian green” wasn’t some dyed dexcool or hinds type II/toyota red/pink clone, just dyed green… I think you’re implying you want fully silicated traditional green coolant…
The concern is only with a brass or copper radiator that is soldered together at the joints, not a welded aluminum unit. It is my understanding that the organic acid content in modern OAT, HOAT and PHOAT coolants will attack and compromise the solder joint. As such, I have only run the old school conventional silicated ethylene glycol coolant in my '97 Jeep Wrangler since replacing the OEM plastic/aluminum radiator with an all-brass CSF radiator in '99. Still no leaks after 26 years of daily driving.
 
Just about every auto parts store still has conventional green coolant but some may keep it in the back.
Seemingly none locally have it. The Auto Zone’s and Advance Auto’s no longer have it. I guess I need to try Napa.
 
The concern is only with a brass or copper radiator that is soldered together at the joints, not a welded aluminum unit. It is my understanding that the organic acid content in modern OAT, HOAT and PHOAT coolants will attack and compromise the solder joint. As such, I have only run the old school conventional silicated ethylene glycol coolant in my '97 Jeep Wrangler since replacing the OEM plastic/aluminum radiator with an all-brass CSF radiator in '99. Still no leaks after 26 years of daily driving.
I believe the nitrite is what attacks solders in those older designs. And many of the newer HD coolants specify whether they do or don’t.

Cool Gard II is a HOAT, silicated coolant with extremely low metals shedding.
 
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