Replacing shocks with vehicle on the ground

[rationull]

I think it’s time for me to stop being lazy about it and replace the shocks in a 1999 Suburban 2500. The truck has about 170k miles on it, no idea if the shocks are original but I’d guess they are either original or otherwise pretty old. There’s evidence of leaking on one of the fronts, the rest look old but OK. The damping isn’t THAT bad but it could be better and I’m looking for a little better stability while towing.

So, just as a sanity check: the dampers and springs are separated both front and rear (leaf springs in back, torsion bars up front) so I won’t have to mess with the springs at all. Is there any reason I shouldn’t be able to just swap the dampers with the truck sitting on the ground, no jack involved? Ground clearance looks good enough for wrenching positions although I will need to double check. Seems like it should work out but I wanted to make sure there’s nothing stupid I’m missing.

 

[ls1mike]

I did that in my 02 Silverado. No jacking.

 

[eljefino]

+2 go for it

 

[The Critic]

You may still need a jack. After unbolting the shocks from the bottom bushing, you may find that the bolt is "bound up" inside of the mounting location. A jack may be needed to either lift the shock or the mounting point itself, in order to remove the bolt.

 

[rationull]

Nice, that'll make it easy!


Critic: Good tip. I'll have my jacks etc. in the garage with me. Just looking forward to not having to lift and support the vehicle to work on it. That's my favorite part about working on this truck.

 

[JHZR2]

Ive done it on my Mercedes cars on the ground. Sometimes bolts are harder to access that way, but with the right tools it will go. My shocks had 8 or 10 point bolts or something like that...

 

[rationull]

While I'm at it, any pointers on components to avoid? I haven't really done any research yet but my inclination is to go to Napa (since they tend to have better parts than the other chain stores IME) and see what "levels" they offer.

I figure anything new is going to be much better than what's on it now, and this vehicle only gets about 1500 miles a year, max. Just need something strong enough to deal with towing, but I assume that any non-bottom of the barrel product spec'd for a 3/4 ton truck would be OK. Naive?

 

[rationull]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Ive done it on my Mercedes cars on the ground. Sometimes bolts are harder to access that way, but with the right tools it will go. My shocks had 8 or 10 point bolts or something like that...


Impressive. Not sure I could do this on the ground with either of our other vehicles. My DD's got shocks in the springs front and back anyway so that rules that out!

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted By: rationull
While I'm at it, any pointers on components to avoid? I haven't really done any research yet but my inclination is to go to Napa (since they tend to have better parts than the other chain stores IME) and see what "levels" they offer.

I figure anything new is going to be much better than what's on it now, and this vehicle only gets about 1500 miles a year, max. Just need something strong enough to deal with towing, but I assume that any non-bottom of the barrel product spec'd for a 3/4 ton truck would be OK. Naive?


I've ran all kinds of different brand shocks On my C20 Suburban & 2500HD....Monroe, Gabriel, KYB, Rancho, Bilstein & different "House Brands".

As far as a GOOD heavy duty shock for a heavy truck that tow's, Bilstein heavy duty shocks are the Best, The 5100's are really good also (Better "unladen" ride)

I use these guys http://www.eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?Model_Index=7Q88&Manf=Bilstein&SubChar=Q
Decent prices & free shipping.

 

[rationull]

Those prices are much cheaper than what I think I can get at local parts stores. I was planning to buy something local to make for easier returns just in case but, hmm...

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I will go with something from Bilstein.

 

[JHZR2]

I just bought my bilsteins for my saab from BMA, but I almost bought from tire rack because the prices for bilstens was really good there!

 

[rationull]

I'm debating going with Monroe Reflex to save a little $$ since the vehicle is in slightly rough shape and doesn't get driven much. Something that lasts a lot longer is not as much of a priority as just getting better ride control. And ride control is higher priority over ride quality as well. I don't want to cheap out and then regret it though. Seems like I hear a lot here that Monroes aren't so great.

clinebarger: Have you run Monroe Reflex before?

 

[hattaresguy]

Trucks are easy to do on the ground, especially the rears.

 

[camelCase]

Helped my buddy replace shocks on a 1989-ish 1500 pickup. The only time we needed a jack was when the bolts would jam up a bit when removing them. Some of the shocks we could hand compress, but other times a little help from the jack was needed. Very straight forward job, but there are areas that will require some muscle and quick-wit decisions.

 

[rationull]

The Bilstein HDs got delivered today. Nice looking shocks.

They came loaded with bushings of course. Should I be looking to replace the through-bolts or just reuse the ones that are on the truck?

 

[SteveSRT8]

^^^The bolts are reusable...

 

[rationull]

Swapped the shocks today. It went really well. Didn't have any trouble loosening any of the bolts (I soaked them with PB Blaster last night though). Details:

- I thought the rears would be much easier than the fronts, but they were about the same. Wrench angles for final torquing are better on the rears but in general wrench angles on the front were better. The top of the rears are held on with some "ears" and little 13mm bolts which are tucked way up there.

- I did in fact need the jack (since I lack in gorilla strength and didn't have a helper). In the rear, I used a small jack to compress the shock until I could line it up with the mount. In the front I just jacked the truck up a bit to drop the mount (on the control arm) relative to the fully extended shock.


Hard to trust my own opinion on the test drive after but it does feel more planted and corners better now. It'll have to wait a while for a towing test.


The shocks that came off were stamped "PLIACELL" which from some googling I take to be a Delco product -- maybe they are the originals. They still had some damping left but were much easier to compress and expand than the new Bilstein HDs. Also, if inverted, they compress themselves under their own weight, and they do not expand themselves at all, unlike the new ones. Not sure if that's because the Bilsteins are gas shocks and maybe the old ones aren't, or because they were just worn out.


Thanks for all the input!