Leaf spring removal/installation.

[Mustang_Cougar]

I'm in the process of replacing the gas tank on an old Mustang and since I have ample access now to the rear end, I decided to put in new leaf springs and shocks.

That said, I want to make sure I'm doing this right:

1) Chock front wheels.
2) Remove rear tires (for access).
3) Jack up car, place jack stand under frame rail, just ahead of the front of the leaf spring; repeat for other side.
4) Place jack under rear differential and raise until pressure is just released from leaf springs.
5) Put jack stands on either side of pumpkin.
6) Remove u-bolts and plate from axle.
7) Place jack under leaf spring.
8) Remove rear shackle.
9) Remove front leaf spring bolt.
10) Lower jack and wheel away old leaf spring.

Re-install by reversing the order, then repeat process on other side.

Does this look right? Did I miss anything?

Also: The kit I ordered has regular rubber bushings. Do I need to lubricate these (looking to avoid squeaks)? If so, what type of grease?

Thanks.

M_C

 

[Bgallagher]

Looks good to me. In terms of the bushings usually lube them with a red grease to make the installation easier and to prevent initial squeaks.

 

[mechtech2]

I'd jack it up so BOTH sides are free to hang.
It will relieve spring pressure that only one side will not.
[It is a solid axle.]
Then support and start removing things.

 

[440Magnum]

"Remove U-bolts" is a heck of a lot easier said than done. I don't know about the Mustang, but on leaf-sprung Mopars the U-bolt nuts are a deliberate interference fit. Sometimes people have gotten them halfway off and had them gall to the u-bolt permanently. A good trick is to clean the threads below the nut as much as you can, spray down with a good penetrating oil, and then even coat them with anti-seize. Once you start backing the nut off, go in short regular bursts (with an impact wrench) or steady pulls with a hand ratchet. Don't stop partway, and don't just mat the trigger on the air ratchet, or the nuts will get VERY hot and the chance of galling goes way up.

Other than that... you got it.

 

[ag_ghost]

Yes on the approach. Confirmation here in the third comment in this thread (Classic Mustang Forum):
http://fomoco.phpbbnow.com/viewtopic.php?t=9902

Your biggest challenge is likely to be the front bolts.
Read here:
http://fomoco.phpbbnow.com/viewtopic.php?t=6413

Never heard of treating real rubber bushings with red grease... poly yes.

Where are you getting your replacement springs? Compelling advice below to acquire directly from the original OEM supplier who have all the blueprints and specs. I have not needed to replace mine, but that's where I'll call when it has to happen.
http://fomoco.phpbbnow.com/viewtopic.php?t=13223

 

[Mustang_Cougar]

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys.

The removal went off w/out a hitch: I guess a few days of PB Blaster on a west coast car means no seized front bolts (I had my reciprocating saw all ready for combat too). If there was a "hitch" in it, it was that the front bolts didn't want to come out all the way due to clearance issues on the mufflers; worked around it, no problem.

As for the springs I got, I bought a 4-leaf kit from CJ Pony...so it's probably Chinese made and who knows how great of quality. That said, I've got so many projects on this car right now that high-quality springs fell a ways down the list (behind new brakes, new carb, bodywork, paint). If they don't work out for me, I can always resell on Craigslist and find something better. Ultimately, they can't be any worse than the old ones, which were giving off some serious "hyena heiny" vibes.

Thanks again.

M_C

 

[ag_ghost]

Well done sir.
Kevin

 

[mechtech2]

It is often MUCH faster to cut off supporting hardware, and get new parts.
It is often the smarter way to go, for a bunch of reasons.