The link to the thread below is my previous thread with details about finding a large amount of metal flakes in the Durango's oil filter. Take a look at how much metal the filter caught:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...al-likely-bad-rocker-chewing-up-a-cam.399622/
Below are details about replacing the rockers and slack adjusters.
After consulting with my friend Bill, the mechanic, I decided to replace all lifters (slack adjusters) and rocker arms. The hope was that I caught a failing rocker before it could ruin the cam. The price of cams locally are > $500 each, this engine has 4, so that drastically increases the price of fixing the engine if any need to be replaced. Total out of pocket cost for this job was $692.07 for parts for 24 lifters, 24 rockers, and a gasket kit.
The book hours for replacing all rockers is 10 and I was able to finish the job in about 8. This job isn't too bad, but shouldn't be attempted without mechanical knowledge and enough patience and creativity to get at several fasteners that are very difficult. The PCV valve on the Durango, which I've complained about here before, is a nightmare and it must be removed and installed to do this job. I highly recommend you throw the torx screws in the PCV as far as you can and get hex head bolts. It will make the reinstall MUCH easier. Hint, how fun do you think it is to work a small close-quarters ratchet with a torx bit into the screw head when you can't see it and have very little room? It's light years easier to keep a hex socket on the hex head than it is to keep the torx bit in the screw head, trust me.
I chose Melling lifters and rockers partially because the price is less than 1/2 the price of OEM at the local Dodge dealer and partially because Autozone had all I needed in stock. The "lifters" are very simple pistons with no moving parts and a leak to squirt the cam lobe. I really don't see the need to replace them unless there is something visibly wrong with them. Mine looked perfect, but got replaced because I had the parts on hand and decided why not? The new Melling rockers were all checked for uniformity and smooth rolling of the bearing. All were uniform in look and function. They appear to be high quality and who knows, maybe they make the OEM for Dodge.
If this is your first time replacing rockers in the 3.2L or 3.6L Pentastar, then watch Motor City Mechanic's how-to video. There are no better videos.
This engine runs HPL engine oil has had 3 oil changes in 85,000 miles. Pretty clean huh?
Rockers, slack adjusters, and cam removed:
Cam, new slack adjusters, and new rockers installed on left. Same parts removed on right:
I found 1 bad rocker on cylinder 6 exhaust. The roller bearings were bad which allowed the roller to move around, but it wasn't bad enough yet for the rocker shoulders to contact the cam. I never would have found the bad rocker without finding the metal in the oil filter. There was no tick yet, so there was no other way to know. My opinion is the rocker bearings are too small for the load. The roller and bearings should have been designed a bit larger with more surface contact. Lubrication isn't the problem. The squirter literally squirts directly onto the cam lobe and rocker.
The failed rocker. Notice the lifter is just a rigid piston with a leak so it can squirt the lifter and cam lobe. The purpose of the lifter is simply to adjust the slack and squirt some oil.
All four cams were good. There were a couple discolored streaks on cam lobes, but no roughness. Bill said the color streaks are common and don't hurt anything. Yes, those look like scratches, but they aren't.
This cam lobe is the one the failed rocker was riding.
Replace all gaskets. The spark plug tube gaskets were very hard and might not have sealed after the valve covers were reinstalled. Use a screw driver to carefully pry the old seal out and use a large socket to gently drive the new seal in. Put some oil on the seals and they will go right in.
More pictures:
Get a metal marking paint pen and make witness marks, or else.
There was no visible wear anywhere on the timing chain, gears, or tensioners.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...al-likely-bad-rocker-chewing-up-a-cam.399622/
Below are details about replacing the rockers and slack adjusters.
After consulting with my friend Bill, the mechanic, I decided to replace all lifters (slack adjusters) and rocker arms. The hope was that I caught a failing rocker before it could ruin the cam. The price of cams locally are > $500 each, this engine has 4, so that drastically increases the price of fixing the engine if any need to be replaced. Total out of pocket cost for this job was $692.07 for parts for 24 lifters, 24 rockers, and a gasket kit.
The book hours for replacing all rockers is 10 and I was able to finish the job in about 8. This job isn't too bad, but shouldn't be attempted without mechanical knowledge and enough patience and creativity to get at several fasteners that are very difficult. The PCV valve on the Durango, which I've complained about here before, is a nightmare and it must be removed and installed to do this job. I highly recommend you throw the torx screws in the PCV as far as you can and get hex head bolts. It will make the reinstall MUCH easier. Hint, how fun do you think it is to work a small close-quarters ratchet with a torx bit into the screw head when you can't see it and have very little room? It's light years easier to keep a hex socket on the hex head than it is to keep the torx bit in the screw head, trust me.
I chose Melling lifters and rockers partially because the price is less than 1/2 the price of OEM at the local Dodge dealer and partially because Autozone had all I needed in stock. The "lifters" are very simple pistons with no moving parts and a leak to squirt the cam lobe. I really don't see the need to replace them unless there is something visibly wrong with them. Mine looked perfect, but got replaced because I had the parts on hand and decided why not? The new Melling rockers were all checked for uniformity and smooth rolling of the bearing. All were uniform in look and function. They appear to be high quality and who knows, maybe they make the OEM for Dodge.
If this is your first time replacing rockers in the 3.2L or 3.6L Pentastar, then watch Motor City Mechanic's how-to video. There are no better videos.
This engine runs HPL engine oil has had 3 oil changes in 85,000 miles. Pretty clean huh?
Rockers, slack adjusters, and cam removed:
Cam, new slack adjusters, and new rockers installed on left. Same parts removed on right:
I found 1 bad rocker on cylinder 6 exhaust. The roller bearings were bad which allowed the roller to move around, but it wasn't bad enough yet for the rocker shoulders to contact the cam. I never would have found the bad rocker without finding the metal in the oil filter. There was no tick yet, so there was no other way to know. My opinion is the rocker bearings are too small for the load. The roller and bearings should have been designed a bit larger with more surface contact. Lubrication isn't the problem. The squirter literally squirts directly onto the cam lobe and rocker.
The failed rocker. Notice the lifter is just a rigid piston with a leak so it can squirt the lifter and cam lobe. The purpose of the lifter is simply to adjust the slack and squirt some oil.
All four cams were good. There were a couple discolored streaks on cam lobes, but no roughness. Bill said the color streaks are common and don't hurt anything. Yes, those look like scratches, but they aren't.
This cam lobe is the one the failed rocker was riding.
Replace all gaskets. The spark plug tube gaskets were very hard and might not have sealed after the valve covers were reinstalled. Use a screw driver to carefully pry the old seal out and use a large socket to gently drive the new seal in. Put some oil on the seals and they will go right in.
More pictures:
Get a metal marking paint pen and make witness marks, or else.
There was no visible wear anywhere on the timing chain, gears, or tensioners.
Last edited:
Have a beer or 2.
