Replacing brake fluid?

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According to the dealer, it is suggested every 3 years. Anyone here do this and any tips on how to do this since it looks like the brakes need bled to get it all.
 
I do a brake flush & bleed only when replacing pads. Long ago they recomended every 2 or 3 years but, most modern owners manuals don't even have a change brake fluid interval.
 
I suggest the old fashioned method or pressure bleeding only.

Bleeding seq for that car is LF, RF, RR, LR.

Honda does require it every 3 years, but many people do not perform this service and do not appear to have issues.
 
It seems many don't, and don't have problems.

Used to be though if you had to replace a caliper or master cylinder you'd wind up replacing a lot more parts, as each one would break as you attempted to touch the line attached to it. Internal/external corrosion. Not sure if that is of the past now.

I will say my VW always felt better after changing the fluid--pedal was more stiff.

What would be kinda ideal IMO would be to pressurize the MC and just let out a bit of fluid every tire rotation, or a couple times a year. Might be a waste of the fluid in the open container though.
 
Replacing brake fluid is a good idea, if not 100% vital to do it on schedule.

To do it:
Use a cheap turkey baster to remove all you can from the brake resevoir and refill.
Use a helper to bleed and bleed the RR wheel until the fluid coming out looks new. (Stop every few ounces to refill the reservoir.) Then bleed the remaining wheels, again looking for the fluid coming out to look new.

Did a friends brakes a while back and the fluid coming out was nearly black... old lines I guess.
 
BMW still recommends brake fluid replacement every two years.
Some makes have no specified interval.

Conventional brake fluid is hygroscopic. It will suck water out of the air. It protects against corrosion to about 5% water, then protection falls off a cliff.

In general, fluids that start with higher boiling points (DOT 4) are more hygroscopic, and thus have a shorter useful life.

The order for flushing the wheel cylinders pretty much doesn't matter. If there isn't any other reason to make a choice, start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and move closer. But it really doesn't matter very much. Certainly not enough to put it as a requirement.
 
Old fluid recycles back up to the master cylinder ,Doing a turkey baster empty and refill at the master cylinder only a few times in a reasonable amount of time you won't have to go through the trouble of going through bleeding all your brake lines
 
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air , it's hygroscopic. The moisture will cause rust of the brake parts. It should be replaced ever two years.

I do mine yearly. Using the bleeder screw yearly and it won't snap off from corrosion.
 
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as others said bleeding when changing pads is all you need, unless your break the fluid has been sitting for 3 years or more without change, than i would go ahead.

The smell of fluid and color change is a good indication of of fluid life, it oxidizes quite rapidly if its been contaminated or exposed to too much air.
 
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I replace all brake fluid when I change pads which is usually over 2 or 3 years.

I use the turkey baster and remove most of the fluid from the master cylinder and then start at the farthest bleeder and work up. I use my Mityvak bleeder or one that I have that hooks to my air compressor and suck all of the old fluid out as well as bleed the brakes. Works good for me.

Wayne
 
Originally Posted By: heyu
Old fluid recycles back up to the master cylinder ,Doing a turkey baster empty and refill at the master cylinder only a few times in a reasonable amount of time you won't have to go through the trouble of going through bleeding all your brake lines


How, now?
 
auto school teaches to do it every 2 years, and when doing it, start with the tire furthest away from the master cylinder, and work your way up the the closest tire.
 
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: heyu
Old fluid recycles back up to the master cylinder ,Doing a turkey baster empty and refill at the master cylinder only a few times in a reasonable amount of time you won't have to go through the trouble of going through bleeding all your brake lines


How, now?


Empty the master cylinder with turkey baster and refill with brand new fluid ,Depressing the brake pedal ( stop and go ) circulates the old fluid through the lines , so after replacing with new fluid a few times the lines have new fluid in them also all the way to the bleeders
 
DOT 4 fluid is REQUIRED to be changed every 2 years. Cars that use DOT 4 such as VW and BMW will show brake fluid changes as being mandatory.

DOT 3 fluid is RECOMMENDED to be changed every 3 years. GM sometimes claims their brake fluid never needs to be changed.

If you do a full fluid replacement and 4 wheel bleed every 2-3 years it can save you $$$ in the long run. If you only intend to keep your auto for a short time, don't bother.

Second to absorption of water, dust is a major contaminant, causing the seals to wear. Over time the dust settles to the lowest point in the system, the calipers and cylinders. Just doing a turkey baster change without bleeding will mostly take care of the water problem, but not the dust. American cars used to have elaborate seals on the master cylinder caps to try to keep the dust out every time the brake pedal is depressed, but about 15-20 years ago they gave up and put simpler caps on and some began to recommend brake fluid changes.
 
Originally Posted By: heyu
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: heyu
Old fluid recycles back up to the master cylinder ,Doing a turkey baster empty and refill at the master cylinder only a few times in a reasonable amount of time you won't have to go through the trouble of going through bleeding all your brake lines


How, now?


Empty the master cylinder with turkey baster and refill with brand new fluid ,Depressing the brake pedal ( stop and go ) circulates the old fluid through the lines , so after replacing with new fluid a few times the lines have new fluid in them also all the way to the bleeders



I think he was disagreeing with you about fluid recirculating in the master cylinder. I would probably agree that the turkey baster is not extremely useful for brake fluid since the fluid that you want out is the stuff closest to the wheels where moisture probably is.

At worst your not hurting anything unless you count the opening of the master cylinder cap letting dust in or the baster having contamination on itself, possibly from rolling in the trunk or another fluid change.
 
Originally Posted By: heyu
Empty the master cylinder with turkey baster and refill with brand new fluid ,Depressing the brake pedal ( stop and go ) circulates the old fluid through the lines , so after replacing with new fluid a few times the lines have new fluid in them also all the way to the bleeders


Brake fluid doesn't circulate in the lines. Every time the brake pedal is depressed, a small quantity of fluid is displaced in the lines all the way to the calipers which moves the piston. When the pedal is released, the same amount of fluid is displaced back into the master cylinder.

Even if accounting for the slow painful process of diffusion, having new fluid in the master cylinder only will never result in new fluid in the calipers. The brakes need to be bled to get new fluid everywhere in the system.
 
Originally Posted By: Jakegday
auto school teaches to do it every 2 years, and when doing it, start with the tire furthest away from the master cylinder, and work your way up the the closest tire.


No, you should always consult the factory service manual for the correct bleeding sequence. The sequence varies by car.
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is ABS. I had mine done recently, but let the garage do it. Per the service manual the ABS solenoid pack had to be cycled and I don't have a scanner to access the ABS control computer. Just something to be aware of.
 
To be thorough, yes, you need to find a way to bleed the ABS unit.

The poor man's way to bleed the ABS is to perform the usual brake fluid exchange, then find a stretch of road where you can exercise the ABS.
 
Originally Posted By: chrome
Originally Posted By: heyu
Empty the master cylinder with turkey baster and refill with brand new fluid ,Depressing the brake pedal ( stop and go ) circulates the old fluid through the lines , so after replacing with new fluid a few times the lines have new fluid in them also all the way to the bleeders


Brake fluid doesn't circulate in the lines. Every time the brake pedal is depressed, a small quantity of fluid is displaced in the lines all the way to the calipers which moves the piston. When the pedal is released, the same amount of fluid is displaced back into the master cylinder.



Even if accounting for the slow painful process of diffusion, having new fluid in the master cylinder only will never result in new fluid in the calipers. The brakes need to be bled to get new fluid everywhere in the system.


Brake fluid DOES purge back through the lines ,I have done it in the past 30 years in cars,,,I would not post a message if it was not true ,
 
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