Replaced strut mount. Still binding

[lairdwd]

Strut mounts are a common failure point on the MKIV VW Jetta, so after getting some binding noise recently, I decided to replace the bushing and bearing. I left the spring in place, and used a spring compressor to give me enough clearance to pull off the old mount and replace it.

First time I put it back together, the binding improved somewhat. I disassembled and reassembled and applied some grease and re-torqued. That almost got the binding gone, except to max right where it still pops a little on low speed turns.

The new bearing I put in is Sachs (OEM) from rockauto. It's a sealed unit, so no grease is needed there. I'm hoping it just needs some strategic grease, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where to grease. These are the choices:

* Between the bearing and the bushing
* Between the bushing and the spring perch
* Between spring perch and the spring
* Between the strut tower and the spring (bottom)

 

[Trav]

You are wasting your time with those bushings, I do a lot of these and the OE style rubber are nothing but trouble and always have been, they bind and stick when new, collapse and pogo when old but there is a solution.
These are expensive but its a one time deal, you can even reuse them they do not deform, the ride is permanently improved and does not deteriorate in time, they are also quiet, I will not use anything else in the Golf, Jetta, Beetle cars that use the donut.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerFlex-Polyurethane-Front-Bushings-PFF85-430/dp/B00BGF83NY

The Sachs bearing is good, lube the top and bottom of the mount and the bottom or the bearing (helps protect against moisture ingress) and the upper sides of the mount.

Edit: The guy who says they don't fit right in the review most likely did not get the parts assembled properly, I never had one that didn't fit properly, there is very little gap from the top washer to the mount, in fact it may appear these is none but with the weight of the car on them after a few bounces the gap is enough that there is no binding whatsoever.

 

[lairdwd]

Hi Trav. Thanks for your feedback. Basically, I want to get the car back together and sell it at the end of summer. I know the poly stuff is definitely the way to go for the long term, but it doesn't make sense in this application.

I've got two beaters, and I've been holding on to one of them for a bit too long. The VW got to go, and it's worth hardly $1k. Gonna miss that ice cold air , especially on weekends like this. I want to have the next owner in a good place and the OE bearing/bushing I got I hope can get the job done. It was $25 shipped for both sides.

Otherwise, one way or another, I'm gonna have to go much more in on this repair.

 

[Trav]

Then just make sure to lube over and under the bearing, top nut and top sides of the donut. Also look for and remove any sort of rubber flashing that may be left on the surfaces the bearing comes in contact with.

 

[lairdwd]

Originally Posted by Trav
Then just make sure to lube over and under the bearing, top nut and top sides of the donut. Also look for and remove any sort of rubber flashing that may be left on the surfaces the bearing comes in contact with.


Trav - thanks so much dude. After assembling, re-assembling and adjusting, probably six more times, I think I finally got it solved. Your wisdom was very helpful here.

I did not in fact trim the rubber flash and had pieces that were breaking away. I pulled all that out. Also the nut was slightly off center to the bearing, and I think that certainly wasn't doing anything good. I also added grease just about everywhere, and soaked everywhere I could with silicon spray.

Gave both nuts a best guess torque to 44fltbs, although I'm probably only really getting 35 to 40 on it. It popped once, but I think some lubricant must have finally gotten to the binding spot, because it seems good now. We'll see if it holds up.