30 year old tow dolly. Already have the hubs off to replace the bearings so it would be easy to replace the bolts now. It took some effort to get the nuts off the bolts with an impact, as the nuts had to ride through some rust on the ends of the studs. Should I replace them? They are 1/2-20 thread. Spline diameter and length are 0.54" Thread length 1.25" Overall length 2.10" Where do I find replacements that aren't made in China that won't rust faster in 3 years than these did after 30?
Replace these trailer wheel studs?
- Thread starter atikovi
- Start date
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
They don’t look too bad as long as they aren’t too rusty like all the way through. I’d wire wheel them and put them back in. Good luck finding any quality studs. When we have to replace studs at work we use what the parts store has I think it’s usually Dorman I personally would not use them by choice but that’s just me.
They look rough but likely serviceable. I would replace them and use new lug nuts if inexpensive.
Edit: Dorman 610-390 looks like the equivalent. Amazon has them for $20/10. Old-school part stores might have them for individually for about the same price.
Edit: Dorman 610-390 looks like the equivalent. Amazon has them for $20/10. Old-school part stores might have them for individually for about the same price.
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
I'd replace the studs and lug nuts, wire wheel the hub and give it a coat of paint.
I wouldn't replace them, just clean them up and you're good to go.
They're not stretched or worn from a possible loose wheel.
They can be reused.
They can be reused.
They look OK.
Anti seize on the studs. Decades of snowmobile trailering and it's a must do as it's spending a lot of time out in the salt and winter roadside flat tires are bad enough.
Anti-seize is on all 4 of the trailers I have, even the ones that do not see salted road use, and zero issues with lug nuts or studs and hub flanges.
Anti seize on the studs. Decades of snowmobile trailering and it's a must do as it's spending a lot of time out in the salt and winter roadside flat tires are bad enough.
Anti-seize is on all 4 of the trailers I have, even the ones that do not see salted road use, and zero issues with lug nuts or studs and hub flanges.
I use grease on my automotive studs, and a smidge on the lugnut cone surfaces. I suppose I could use Neverseize, as an alternative. I also don't go to full torque values, as a result. Many would suggest this is folly. It has always served me well.
I would avoid anti-seize on the studs, hub yes. I will admit I have done it mildly before and, if some gets on the studs I leave it be, but it can be frowned upon but it's never been a problem for me.
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The classic advice of using a wire wheel or wire brush is simpler and better.
Electrolysis cleans the surface to bright metal, but leaves embedded hydrogen. That's bad on a stressed stud -- you don't to risk crack formation
Use a thread chaser or wire brush to clean em up and reuse. Nothing wrong with a dab of anti seize. I would suggest that if you add up all the time messing around with the studs you can get a complete new hub for probably $25-$35 online. Oh and clean it and shoot some Krylon on that thing lol.
^ I second that, find out the price of a new hub.
JHZR2
Staff member
Remove, soak in ospho. Let ospho clean all but the races on the hub. Put all back together, pint with cold galvanizing paint.
Agree. These units are not high tech precision steel when new, you might be able to find two hubs with studs for the price of studs alone.
that said, wire wheel, spray paint and anti-seize, yep.
Be careful with any grease or anti seize. It will effect the torque needed to tighten the wheel nuts.
Soak in EvapoRust. Its great stuff if the item can be soaked for a few days.
Soak in EvapoRust. Its great stuff if the item can be soaked for a few days.
I saw on a TV show where they used White Vinegar to remove rust.
Soak it overnight.
It contains Acetic Acid.
I'm waiting to find something rusty, but every thing on my vehicle has oil undercoating.
Soak it overnight.
It contains Acetic Acid.
I'm waiting to find something rusty, but every thing on my vehicle has oil undercoating.
I use about 75% of the recommended torque... It hasn't resulted in prbs for me yet. Using grease, some of the "light-ends" in the grease soon flashes-off and it becomes stickier, but lugnuts come off when loosened, NP.
Not scientific I know.
