Annoyed at my LoadRite boat trailer

Seems plausible. I would take it down to a local hardware store and find one about the same size.
Local Ace that has a lot of the pull out bins of nuts and bolts has only threaded Zerks.

Local NAPA has only one size of press in Zerk on their rack.

It probably does not help that some of the trailer part companies have sold parts of their business. Tie Down Engineering sold at least the surge brake actuator business to Dexter.
 
Was reading about the pressed.in Zerk fittings I see that they do not recommend using a pneumatic grease gun. So they know they are not in there as strong as a threaded fitting.

I don't get it. The trailer is top of the line aluminum trailer, high quality hubs and surge brake actuator.

When go cheap on Zerk fittings.
 
Local Ace that has a lot of the pull out bins of nuts and bolts has only threaded Zerks.

Local NAPA has only one size of press in Zerk on their rack.

It probably does not help that some of the trailer part companies have sold parts of their business. Tie Down Engineering sold at least the surge brake actuator business to Dexter.
I would replace it with a self tapping zerk. Sorry I wasn’t clear. I would use the existing one to estimate the size of the new zerk you need.
Was reading about the pressed.in Zerk fittings I see that they do not recommend using a pneumatic grease gun. So they know they are not in there as strong as a threaded fitting.

I don't get it. The trailer is top of the line aluminum trailer, high quality hubs and surge brake actuator.

When go cheap on Zerk fittings.
The pneumatic gun is because they are ez lube axles. You will push the seal out on the back side if you use anything but a hand grease gun.

In my RV I use to jack the axle up and rotate the tire while greasing the hub. This helped ensure the grease was spread around and wasn’t pushing the seal out.
 
I would replace it with a self tapping zerk. Sorry I wasn’t clear. I would use the existing one to estimate the size of the new zerk you need.

The pneumatic gun is because they are ez lube axles. You will push the seal out on the back side if you use anything but a hand grease gun.

In my RV I use to jack the axle up and rotate the tire while greasing the hub. This helped ensure the grease was spread around and wasn’t pushing the seal out.
Are all threaded Zerks self tapping or only some?

I think the hub maybe cast iron. Will the self tapping work there or too hard a material.

This is a Knott hub. The grease from the Zerk goes through the center on the spindle to the back where it is routed to push the old grease through the bearings and out the front and the old grease comes out around the front perimeter of the hub behind the dust cap.
 
You could forget those fittings ever existed and tear down the hub to repack the bearings manually the old-fashioned way. Since you don't put the trailer in water or drive a lot of miles it's not going to need regreasing often, or perhaps ever.
 
Are all threaded Zerks self tapping or only some?

I think the hub maybe cast iron. Will the self tapping work there or too hard a material.

This is a Knott hub. The grease from the Zerk goes through the center on the spindle to the back where it is routed to push the old grease through the bearings and out the front and the old grease comes out around the front perimeter of the hub behind the dust cap.
No, not all zerks are self tapping, but the self tapping will work. We use them at work in steel forgings, castings and plate steel.

your axles are similar to the EZ Lube. Just a differnt manufacturer.
 
No, not all zerks are self tapping, but the self tapping will work. We use them at work in steel forgings, castings and plate steel.

your axles are similar to the EZ Lube. Just a differnt manufacturer.
I looked at the specs for self taping Zerk you posted previously in this thread. It does not mention the size hole you must drill.
 
I looked at the specs for self taping Zerk you posted previously in this thread. It does not mention the size hole you must drill.
The suppler said the hole needs to be 7/32" inch for 1/4-28 self tapping.. A would guess the hole for 1/4" press in grease fitting is 1/4"

Not looking to drill a larger hole for a 3/16 self tapping Zerk as now I would need to clean the hub from metal chips from drilling.
 
So I have emailed LoadRite company (no response). They have no number to call for retail customers. Email a few companies on the web that sell trailer parts. Either no response or they don't have the part listed or out of stock.

But Knott AutoFlex the manufacturer the hubs did respond and has the press-in grease fittings and rubber caps for the dust cover that covers the Zerk. The guy seem to say the press-in Zerk fitting do pop off very occasionally and he was not sure if they were never properly pressed in or people yanked the grease gun off the Zerk pulling the Zerk off with the grease gun. So thumbs up to Knott AutoFlex. They had an email for the president of the company and customer service. I emailed both.
 
There's a relatively new type of grease gun fitting called Lock N Load that is more secure but also easier to remove. I used it on my trailer and it's worth the slightly greater cost.
On my trailer which is a Load Rite, I found that they did have a pretty good on line catalog, I was able to order a lot stuff they use on their trailers when I rebuilt and modified my old Load Rite. Not sure if that is still true though. Most mass market trailers do use cheaper than desirable fittings (Ubolts, nuts, etc) and jacks/winches. The nice thing about rebuilding your old trailer is you get to buy what you like instead of the cheapest bottom of the barrel stuff. I had a custom made 6000 lb axle made for mine by Champion Trailers down in Louisiana and it was excellent quality and allowed me to upgrade to 12" surge brakes which stops the trailer very well. A relative bought a new Venture trailer and it was kind of the same thing, some of the add ons could have been of better quality. You have to move up to the semi-custom trailer companies to get the good stuff, unless you do it yourself.
 
There's a relatively new type of grease gun fitting called Lock N Load that is more secure but also easier to remove. I used it on my trailer and it's worth the slightly greater cost.
On my trailer which is a Load Rite, I found that they did have a pretty good on line catalog, I was able to order a lot stuff they use on their trailers when I rebuilt and modified my old Load Rite. Not sure if that is still true though. Most mass market trailers do use cheaper than desirable fittings (Ubolts, nuts, etc) and jacks/winches. The nice thing about rebuilding your old trailer is you get to buy what you like instead of the cheapest bottom of the barrel stuff. I had a custom made 6000 lb axle made for mine by Champion Trailers down in Louisiana and it was excellent quality and allowed me to upgrade to 12" surge brakes which stops the trailer very well. A relative bought a new Venture trailer and it was kind of the same thing, some of the add ons could have been of better quality. You have to move up to the semi-custom trailer companies to get the good stuff, unless you do it yourself.
Look at the trailer jack. And coupler. Cheap galvanizing.

PXL_20241214_151855438.webp


PXL_20250601_175450978.webp
 
Yep looks like they missed those 2 parts, I'd sand em and paint with cold galvanizing paint.
Dutton Lawson makes good jacks and winches
Believe it or not I have a 21 year old Tie Down 66 actuator that still works fine. 12" galvanized free backing drum brakes with galvanized drums.
6000 axle and drum brakes.webp
 
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