Replace fuel sending unit or just roll with it?

Joined
Feb 27, 2018
Messages
840
Location
Idaho
My fuel sending unit is screwing up and I want to replace it soon because it is getting annoying.

So the other day I filled up on gas. Every time I get gas I reset the trip-A odometer.

I have since driven 60 miles and my fuel tank was down to ~3/4 according to the gauge. Then I parked on my driveway and the incline caused it to read as full.

I have now driven 100 miles since filling up and the gauge still reads full, and I know its most certainly coming closer to half empty. My gauge is stuck.

It did this a few months ago and I was able to fix it by (and I'm being honest) swerving around like an idiot (with no other cars around of course) to slosh everything around in the fuel tank which knocked the floater loose and corrected the reading. I tried that tonight and this time it did not remedy the issue.

I looked online for a replacement unit and it seems like the fuel pump and level sensor are an all-in-one package and cannot be replaced separately (just my luck, everything on this car has to be a whole ordeal). I have seen ones ranging from $75 all the way to nearly $400.

Is it even worth it to replace the thing or should I just go and fill my gas each time my trip odometer approaches 200 miles?
 
The EVAP system may use the fuel level sensor when it does a self test looking for leaks in the fuel system. If the sender continues to malfunction I wouldn't be surprised if a check engine light pops up. Do you need to pass an emissions test in your state?
 
If you have an older car and intend to " run it into the ground " roll with it. It will need to be fixed if it is a newer one or if you want to sell it of course.

Sorry, didn't see you listed the Honda.
 
Last edited:
do you have an access panel or do you need to cut a hole in the floor?

if the former just pulll it out and clean it up, if the latter keep a pen & paper in the car to work out how much range you have remianing.
 
Looks like it has an access panel.

I think if it were my vehicle, I'd see about getting a name brand replacement like DENSO etc and swap it out. Looks like you can get original Honda fuel pumps from an online Honda parts retailer for under $300, and maybe your local dealer would come close to such a price.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhK7P3xG_-4

The original lasted 13 years and a bunch of miles, so why go cheap on a replacement? If you plan to keep this vehicle another 100k miles, do the job right.
 
How can we answer what it is worth to you to have a properly working fuel gauge?

I don't think whether there is an access panel is really the deciding factor here, dropping a tank isn't fun to do, but not terribly hard either if the vehicle functions so you don't even have to drain the tank & store much gas if at all, can just drive it till near empty.

Am I understanding correctly that you have a 2007 CR-V with 2.4L engine? The fuel pump and sender can be replaced separately (or else they wouldn't sell the pump separate, looks like it uses a standard hose and clamps setup), but that doesn't necessarily mean you can buy the sender separately. Is that a big deal? I mean with 217K mi. on it, it makes sense to go ahead and replace the pump while you're replacing the sending unit, as long as you don't get a low quality generic pump with a short lifespan.

I was going to link to a Delphi $221 sending unit w/pump on Rock Auto, but in this rare case, autozone has it for the same price which can be handy should you ever need to take advantage of the lifetime warranty:
https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/delphi-gasoline-fuel-pump-dfg0923/556198_0

... at least I assumed this is the right part #, as it is what Rock Auto shows for your model year.
 
My mom drove her 99 Alero for several years without a gas gauge, refuelling at 250kms each time. She never had a problem with it. I sold it to a coworker (a mechanic) for his son who drove it a couple more years still with no gas gauge until it rusted out and went to the wreckers. I'd decide based on the price and how much it bothers you.
 
Run the tank till almost empty and then fill it with 94 octane, the additives in the premium gas may gum out whatever is making the sender malfunction.
If that fails I believe you have to remove the back seat to have access to the unit.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
Try this in a full tank of fuel, do it twice. OE manufacturers have specified this product by name for this exact problem in TSB's over the years.

https://www.amazon.com/Chevron-Techron-Concentrate-System-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E


I agree. Sometimes a contact is dirty and Techron will clean off the oxidation. E36 sending units would play up quite often in the ‘90s, the problem being the rotgut that passed for gasoline in the US at that time.
 
In my 89 Sierra the gas gauge was not reading correctly, I would fill up and the gauge would only go to 3/4 and then it would read full when I should of read 3/4, it was really bad when it got down to 1/4. I tried a few tanks of Techron and it didn't help so I double dosed some Star Tron and after a couple tanks it now works like it should. Now I add a regular dose every other time I fill up.

You can get the diesel version which is just more concentrated.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZNZ620/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would try one or the other before I went ripping into it, just might work for you.
 
Originally Posted by Pelican
Run the tank till almost empty and then fill it with 94 octane, the additives in the premium gas may gum out whatever is making the sender malfunction.
If that fails I believe you have to remove the back seat to have access to the unit.

Detergent wise, there's no difference between regular and high test, just a myth.
 
Get a used replacement, should be fine.

Only 1 manufacturer of fuel pump assemblies for my Jeep (96' was a weird year for them) and it's really expensive. Got a used one and it works fine (my gas gauge didn't work).

My Camry has the fuel pump housing crack and it leaked gas. Put in a used one and 30k miles later it works perfect.
 
I had a fuel sending unit issue with my 2000 Olds Intrigue. I used the trip odometer and filled up around 250 miles....of course there are times I stretched that. And I had a time when my car coasted into the gas station. Fun times.

It all comes down to how long do you plan to keep the vehicle; how easy it to repair; and how much will it cost? I was tight on money at the time. If it was the same situation today, I would have repaired it...truthfully I would gotten another car (that car burned oil like crazy).

Since you not sure if this is a permanent problem, I would go another tankful or 2 to confirm the problem then make a decision.
 
Sorry it's taken me so long to reply but I'll try to address everyone at once.

So, yesterday driving on 270 I hit a pothole which fixed the gauge temporarily. There's a 2007 CR-V at a junkyard near me so I'm going to go out there soon and pull the sending unit out of it if they're even open right now.

I will post back if/when I get it in.
 
Originally Posted by Pelican
Run the tank till almost empty and then fill it with 94 octane, the additives in the premium gas may gum out whatever is making the sender malfunction.
If that fails I believe you have to remove the back seat to have access to the unit.

Detergent wise, there's no difference between regular and high test, just a myth.
 
Back
Top