Repair it or retire it

If you like giving away your $ on depreciating assets retire it and get something new.
Usually in the rust belt, you can only keep vehicles alive for so long before it becomes a losing battle. Then the vehicle just becomes a constant money pit, which can be way worse than a depreciating asset.
Thank you for all the comments.

Unfortunately, the car is done for. Threw a P0744 code. The mechanic stopped by my place to take a quick drive and suggested to retire it.
Thank you for all the comments.

Unfortunately, the car is done for. Threw a P0744 code. The mechanic stopped by my place to take a quick drive and suggested to retire it.
The question is how did it drive? And how recently has it been driven (prior to discovering the engine mount issue) and how did it drive then?? You need to answer these specific questions, completely, clearly and unequivically.

Is this the same mechanic that wanted you to spent $600 for engine mounts? :eek:

P0744 code means that the torque converter isn't locking up consistently and IMO that may not really affect how the car drives but it will probably slightly decrease your MPG, particularally at high speeds. Someone else here probably knows more about that code than I do and can give you a better opinion. But if the car still drives fine then I wouldn't trash it only because of a P0744 code.

You never mentioned the P0744 code before and I have a hard time believing that that code just suddenly appears after the engine mount issue. If anyone (including that mechanic) has been under the hood or under the car, then you need to go check the wiring, particularally any that is related to the torque convertor lock up circuit. All it would take would be for someone to push a wire out of the way and leave it up against a hot part, such as the exhaust manifold, and the wire insulation melt and you woul get an intermittent short in the wire would could easily make the TD intermittent.

All valid questions.

The vehicle was driving perfectly, had no issues. On 5/11, drove to work, no issues. When I was leaving, I usually roll few feet just to get on the road, but that day, car didn't roll, I accelerated a bit and it jerked like it has never before. Felt odd, got off the road, turned off, waiting for a minute, started again to leave, jerked again, but once on the highway, no problem.

Used like that on 5/12.

Last week, wife took it to work because she works closer than me. Thursday, 5/18, she messages me that the car is jerking violently and she is afraid to drive, she wanted to call a tow-truck. The engine light turned on her way to work. I was busy at work, didn't check her message until late night. She drove home that day with hazard lights on. Since that day, the car is sitting in parking lot.

Yesterday, I called the mechanic to ask him when the mounts will be in, because the car is jerking a lot. Mentioned engine light. I still have not checked the code. He asked me to check the code with my rudimentary code reader. I got the code. He stopped by as he was delivering neighbor's car to check the code. Took a drive and informed me that its not safe to drive it.

Yes, it is the same mechanic. I trust this guy. I find it hard to believe that he will do such a thing on a 16 year old car.
Rock Auto has an entire motor mount kit. $65. How bad can they be? Maybe two years possibly more. Have your mech replace them. Can't be $500 labor cost to jack a motor up and R&R three mounts.

Add $15 worth of polyurethane and they will last 2-3times as long or more.
There just comes a time when throwing more money at it (especially when an expensive transmission repair shows up) isn’t feasible. And then you throw in the towel and let it go. I guess that’s happened…

Time to look for a replacement? 😎
I think it's all about the rust. The aftermarket mounts will get you a few years. That's all you need. Get a Walmart Value battery for $75.

But if the rust takes over then it's time for the bone yard is approaching.

My brother brought a 2004 4Runner in for a oil change and to evaluate the rust condition. The mechanic suggested he get a ride home. The rust was that bad.
Did your brother take any pictures of the rust?

Causes of this DTC may include:
Wiring harness to transmission damaged, loose connection, or intermittent open/short circuit
Torque converter clutch (TCC) solenoid
Transmission control module (TCM)

How do we know that it's isn't bad motor mounts flexing wires that go the torque converter solenoid that's the real problem here?

These all seem like easy enough DIY fixes.
This car sounds like it needs a one way trip to U-Pull & Pay (or whatever similar boneyard they have in your area), that’s too much to be worth fixing. I have a less serious situation with the xB in my sig, a $2500 car that needs $5K+ in work & paint. At some point, just got to throw in the towel…