Removing wheels/tires on 2003 2500 Chevrolet

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Hmm, battery acid, do i just find an old batter then hand pump/siphon it out then pour it on?


Messin' with battery acid is a good way to end up in the emergency room. I like to use a piece of 2x4 placed against the OD of the wheel and pound it with a 3 lb hammer (from the inside, of course). Sometimes the wood shatters before the wheel breaks loose but the wheel will always lose, eventually.

 

[Olas]

I've always used wd40 between the wheel and hub, along with a bit of wood rested against the bottom of the wheel which I *wallop* with a big hammer

 

[Traction]

I made myself a "battering ram". Took a 8 foot landscaping timber, mounted a couple cheap lawnmower wheels to it a couple feet from the end. With the tire a inch off the ground I can get on the opposite side of the vehicle and roll it into the backside near the outer edge of tire with a lot of force, and not have to crawl under the vehicle to hit it. Works really well with the wheels on the timber. You can get a pretty good run at it, and much easier than wailing on it with a hammer. I have used it over a hundred times, and it always knocks them loose. The really tight ones, it helps to roll the tire around and hit it in different spots too.

 

[Rand]

I have a 5lb deadblow mallet, I apply directly to wheel. if that doesnt work, it gets kroil and I take a beverage break.

My jack also drops fast. so I'll put a couple lugnuts on it and drop the corner from 6" up usually it will pop out that 1/8 to 1/4" and you know its free. If neither of those work

farther options include sledgehammer and board or kicking it

If its up on jackstands that might not be the best idea. you could end up knocking it off the stands

you may need put all the tires lugs back on.. on the ground and work on 1 corner at a time until they are loose.

Usually a few good kicks with the bottom of the boot (not the toe) work for most stuck car tires. I do have some really heavy steeltoe/full shank boots.

Also alternating sides and top bottom can help.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28

Can anyone elaborate on hitting wood with a hammer? Hate to frustrate ya, but I just cannot imagine the geometry of it. Was eljefino talking about using the four by four as a fulcrum/lever to pry the wheel off, as in a crow bar?


No like a real clumsy baseball bat.

It'd throw your back out doing it all day, but a few good whacks ought to shake it loose.

 

[hattaresguy]

Smack it with a sledge, for very stubborn wheels or brake drums put a torch on them. As the metal heats up it will expand breaking the rust bond.

Penetrating oils are a waste in this application.

When you get it off wire brush the surfaces really well and put some anti seize or grease on them, next time the wheel will come off.

 

[Traction]

Smacking a nice aluminum wheel with a sledge I would never do. Hit the tire. Only problem with that, just a couple days ago I had to change a flat tire on a family members Ram that was flat. Pretty hard to kick or hit a flat tire with the wheel frozen to the hub. Since I didn't have anything with to hit it with, I used the spare tire, and rolled it into the edge of the wheel multiple times. Finally knocked it loose and avoided a 18 mile round trip to get more tools.

 

[hattaresguy]

Just have someone hold a block of wood against the wheel and hit that, no marking. Unless were talking about a super high end wheel, but in that case it shouldn't be rusted on to begin with.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Just have someone hold a block of wood against the wheel


That is why I use a 2x4 and 3 lb hammer. Takes a few more blows but I can hold lumber with one hand and strike with the other. Been married 41 years and still can't get my wife to help me in the garage!

 

[BrewCity]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28

Can anyone elaborate on hitting wood with a hammer? Hate to frustrate ya, but I just cannot imagine the geometry of it. Was eljefino talking about using the four by four as a fulcrum/lever to pry the wheel off, as in a crow bar?


I used to have a Corolla with steelies that would rust on to the hubs every winter. To get them off I'd take of the lug nuts, jack up the car, and give the rim/tire a big old donkey kick with a pair of work boots. the leverage of kicking the outside of the wheel/tire always provided enough leverage to break the rust and pop the wheel loose.

I think people are suggesting to hit it with a hammer because you'll need more force than a foot to pop that big rim off. The wood is just so you don't damage the rim.

 

[FL-400S]

What about carefully wedging a bottle jack between the frame and wheel? I did this to pop out an "oopsie" dent in a 5mph modern bumper.

Id be be careful about slamming a sledge into the tire...the rebound to the head/leg/body part would be brutal.

Vinegar would probably eat the rust and be safer. but I wouldnt leave it on too long and dont get it on stuff you dont want it to eat.

 

[Kira]

Hello, Boils down to "work 'em off". Loved reading the descriptions of force apps.

WOAH!-----HANG ON....Thought coming through.........Why not lube 'em up in the first place? Kira

 

[supton]

Yeah, bit of antisieze ought to go a long ways. I forgot to apply on my Camry, and regretted it. Another month and I'll see if t made a difference.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Success! My Dad got each one removed with one hit each to the inside of the tire with a sledge.


Thanks all for your suggestions..........moving on now