Removing Pressed-In Ball Joint

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Mar 10, 2017
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South Wales, UK
I need to replace the ball joints on the wishbones of my Wifes Dacia Logan MCV. I tore both ball joint boots replacing the clutch earlier in the year which is a failure in our annual testing here in the UK. I did consider just replacing the boots but OE ball joints were £10 a side and as the originals already have 110k or so on them it only seemed wise install new.

The wishbone is a stamped steel affair with the ball joint pressed in. The circumference of the ball joint is splined to stop it spinning and is held in place with a circlip.

I've only ever replaced balljoints that bolt onto the wishbone so this is a new one to me. I'm hoping I can prop up the wishbone with some wood and just hit the balljoint out with a big hammer. But quite how 'stuck' do these tend to be? Alternatively, I was considering using a big G-clamp and some suitably sized sockets to push them out.
 
They have big c clamp style kits for this exact purpose. Plenty of videos on how to use. Depending on your environment, you may be able to smack them out with a big hammer. Did 2 on a Honda last weekend, knocked both out. A Ford crown Vic a while back, 1 came out easy, 1 had to be pressed out.
 
You need a ball joint press. Looks like a big C-clamp but at least ten times heavier and able to put the several tons of force on the joint needed to get it out. I have an Astro Pneumatic (naturally) that was about $75 on Amazon.
 
It's supposed to be a very tight fit. You might be able to smack the old out but that doesn't get the new in without damage. Might be worth a try with the clamp you have if it is very big and well made, and you have the right sized socket or pipe near the same diameter of the new BJ to press in without damage. Take a look at the kits to get an idea of the pieces involved, including a plate or cup on the pipe for even pressure, reducing deformation of the pipe or clamp.

Easier to get the kit, in the US several auto parts stores have them as free loaners with a hefty deposit USD $100-$200+.
 
my friends very good alignment shop used a big hammer mostly, dont forget a proper front end alignment afterward!!
 
You should tap the steel that the joint presses into, not necessarily the joint itself. A bit of pressure and some taps on the hub where the joint presses in will often have it pop out.
 
I’d price replacing the control arm assembly that includes the ball joints as well as control arm bushings. It will cost more but if the old ball joints are rusted in you may find the need to get new control arms anyway.
 
I’d price replacing the control arm assembly that includes the ball joints as well as control arm bushings. It will cost more but if the old ball joints are rusted in you may find the need to get new control arms anyway.

This.

If the ball joint is part of the control arm, you might as well just replace the control arm, and those bushings are probably shot, too :unsure:

Trodo has both control arms for under $100
 
You should tap the steel that the joint presses into, not necessarily the joint itself. A bit of pressure and some taps on the hub where the joint presses in will often have it pop out.
That's not what he's asking

OP, some guys use air hammers here, but I'd only be comfortable doing so on truck knuckles. Stamped or cast control arms tend to be more fragile or brittle and a walking air hammer could damage something
 
This guy driving out with an air hammer, but again: truck knuckles, not passenger car stuff
 
That's not what he's asking

OP, some guys use air hammers here, but I'd only be comfortable doing so on truck knuckles. Stamped or cast control arms tend to be more fragile or brittle and a walking air hammer could damage something
What control arms are you encountering that aren't either stamped or cast? At the same time I'm not advocating an air hammer, why bother when it is not suitable to install the new BJs and whatever is, is most likely also capable of taking the old ones out.

New control arm is certainly an option, but they "usually" don't wear out as fast as the BJ does, even if there is rust making it a little difficult to remove. YMMV but that is usually just rust from captive water between the junction between the two parts, then after the old BJ is removed, just light sanding is needed, then if going the extra mile, put a little lube on the hole for the BJ and it will also press in easier.

The bushings could be shot, but depending on how much of a *ride control freak* you are, the bushings will probably outlast the first BJ replacement. It depends, if you have perfectly paved roads but a lot of hills and curves, maybe not, but if there are also some bumps and potholes, then your BJs will probably fail before the bushings need replaced, especially if there are bumps and potholes and the original BJs are the sealed, plastic bushing type which does not withstand that kind of shock as well.

Even so, considering the topic and alternatives, replacing the control arm is not a bad option if reasonably priced, though reasonable may mean going 1st tier aftermarket rather than OEM.

Some people claim it is easier to press the new BJs in if you put them in a freezer for a few hours to contract the metal. Also, just because the replacements have knurled housings, doesn't necessarily mean the originals did. Some aftermarket do this to strike a balance between needing, and not needing a little larger diameter as the knurling can compress while being pressed in, or not if the control arm hole was corroded and after cleaned, is a slightly larger diameter.

Your options may depend on how much vehicle downtime you can suffer, what parts or tools are available locally, and how much pre-planning, whether you have alternate transportation to solve problems as you go along the repair. You have a few vehicles listed so the latter doesn't seem to be a problem.
 
I'm noticing guys replace the whole arm just to skip the mess w/a jall joint (so wasteful). Some have multi-upper'n lower.
The more I wrk around these vehicles (started @ king pins) the more I'm in wonder (NOT surprise anymore).
 
If you go the ball joint press kit route, an impact wrench is highly recommended and be sure to lubricate the threads.
And from personal experience that will make air tool purists "rabble rabble rabble," a cordless electric impact affords better trigger control, esp when backing out the screw because you don't get that post-trigger "RRRRR!" free spin
 
Press is the right way, but these have been beaten a million times from the steering knuckles on w123 Mercedes cars.

A press makes it much easier. The right press may even let you do it on the car.

Be careful to get/find/make the right adapter and/or remove the boot before install…
 
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