Looking for way to easily remove old ball joint

[joegreen]

Went to replace the lower ball joint on my car. I put it in the press and the joint didn’t budge but the whole spindle assembly bent instead. When i get a used assembly in i want to remove the old ball joint easily so as not to damage the new assembly. What are some good ways to relax the ball joints friction fit. Maybe drilling a bunch of holes through the back of the joint?

 

[mattd]

Rent a ball joint press

 

[BituminousCoal]

A good air hammer, heat, fogging oil for lube.

 

[D60]

Yeah I just drove 'em out for the first time with an air hammer, albeit on a 10b/D44 front. Was stupid fast and easy. I had always used a BJ press in the past but setup takes way longer, as does a threaded spindle by nature.

From now on I'm sending 'em across the bench with the air hammer and only using the BJ press for installation

 

[DemoFly]

Yeah I just drove 'em out for the first time with an air hammer, albeit on a 10b/D44 front. Was stupid fast and easy. I had always used a BJ press in the past but setup takes way longer, as does a threaded spindle by nature.

From now on I'm sending 'em across the bench with the air hammer and only using the BJ press for installation

I actually air hammer the new one in, too. Put a socket over it and hammer it home.

 

[B1974]

Just did one two weeks ago on a v6 Mustang. it wouldn't budge until I heated it up and used two pickle forks coming in at 180 degrees from each other and hitting one with a 4 pound hammer. That broke it loose of the spindle. Then I used a ball joint press to push it out of the lower control arm.
Heating the spindle was a must, nothing was working until I put some heat on it and it took about two hits of the hammer to break free once heated.

Didn't try a air hammer as my 5 gallon compressor runs my air hammer for all of 3 seconds! Time for a bigger compressor.

 

[Soft Cars]

A good air hammer, heat, fogging oil for lube.

Fogging oil for men.

 

[Trav]

What car are we talking about?

 

[joegreen]

I do have a ball joint press which i used to put in the new one. Issue is the joint sits in a pocket which doesn’t allow the press to get in there for removal

 

[joegreen]

What car are we talking about?

W123 300D

 

[Number_35]

Didn't try a air hammer as my 5 gallon compressor runs my air hammer for all of 3 seconds! Time for a bigger compressor.

Do you have the little blue one from CT? Very frustrating - I also wish I'd bought a bigger one.

 

[Trav]

I use a large bore air hammer, it knocks them right out. Without that it is hard but can be done by hitting it all abound the joint with a hammer than use the hammer to knock it out, sometimes a torch helps to heat around it.
If you want to do this kind of work in the rust belt on an older car you need a bigger compressor and tools for the job.

 

[joegreen]

I use a large bore air hammer, it knocks them right out. Without that it is hard but can be done by hitting it all abound the joint with a hammer than use the hammer to knock it out, sometimes a torch helps to heat around it.
If you want to do this kind of work in the rust belt on an older car you need a bigger compressor and tools for the job.

I have an air hammer i just never thought about using it considering i have a 20ton press. I have seen people online try buring them in the ground then beating them out with a hammer but the air hammer sounds good.

 

[Trav]

I really should be a larger .498 air hammer for this type of work, many times the common .401 shank hammers don't cut it. This is the least expensive .498 hammer that is good quality. It needs 3/8 air hose and high flow fittings like Milton V.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-4980-Riveter/dp/B01C2RTJZK?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-49803-3-Piece/dp/B01JBO4E34/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_1/143-2072257-7956314?pd_rd_w=vqSg3&content-id=amzn1.sym.43d28dfc-aa4f-4ef6-b591-5ab7095e137f&pf_rd_p=43d28dfc-aa4f-4ef6-b591-5ab7095e137f&pf_rd_r=MHC41MN5PQT04TEENBMT&pd_rd_wg=J8Znx&pd_rd_r=df203f59-0495-465e-a7be-23da0cefc12f&pd_rd_i=B01JBO4E34&psc=1

The difference..

 

[B1974]

Do you have the little blue one from CT? Very frustrating - I also wish I'd bought a bigger one.

I did buy it at CT, but it's the power built hot rod 3hp 5 gallon twin tank.

 

[someonesomewhere]

Air hammer also works fantastic for control arm bushings (on older vehicles, at least). Knocked old one out and new ones in on my 72 Pinto in about 2 minutes.

 

[Number_35]

@joegreen, I can't tell from your photo where the type of tool that ultimately worked for me would help you, but it's linked in Post #15 and shown in Post #22:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/tapered-ball-joint-shaft-seized-in-help.280737/page-2

 

[D60]

@joegreen, I can't tell from your photo where the type of tool that ultimately worked for me would help you, but it's linked in Post #15 and shown in Post #22:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/tapered-ball-joint-shaft-seized-in-help.280737/page-2

I don't think that's the question

 

[joegreen]

Ok yall the air hammer was the ticket. Wish i knew about that but i dont work on cars for a living. Held the arm in the press and then worked it out with the air hammer going around the joint in a circle

 

[boom10ful]

I really should be a larger .498 air hammer for this type of work, many times the common .401 shank hammers don't cut it. This is the least expensive .498 hammer that is good quality. It needs 3/8 air hose and high flow fittings like Milton V.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-4980-Riveter/dp/B01C2RTJZK?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-49803-3-Piece/dp/B01JBO4E34/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_1/143-2072257-7956314?pd_rd_w=vqSg3&content-id=amzn1.sym.43d28dfc-aa4f-4ef6-b591-5ab7095e137f&pf_rd_p=43d28dfc-aa4f-4ef6-b591-5ab7095e137f&pf_rd_r=MHC41MN5PQT04TEENBMT&pd_rd_wg=J8Znx&pd_rd_r=df203f59-0495-465e-a7be-23da0cefc12f&pd_rd_i=B01JBO4E34&psc=1

The difference..

I use the Thor to remove tie rods from buses. Works very well with a Proto air hammer pickle fork bit.