Removing lower A-arm w/o torsion bar removal tool?

[dlundblad]

Is there a way to do this on my 1997 blazer without the tool (and hassle)?

In a YouTube video, a guy with a suburban just undid the upper and lower ball joints from the steering knuckle while the lower a arm was supported with a jack. After lowering the jack, everything was relaxed and he was able unbolt the a arm.

Looked very simple as opposed to tightening the tool onto the key, unbolting the set bolt and removing the bracket, loosening the tool, fishing the torsion bar out of the frame and a arm while noting the original orientation for reinstallation etc.

 

[Food Scientist]

Are you needing to replace the entire control arm or just the ball joint? Never done this job on a Chevy but on my F150 it uses the same torsion bar setup. I rebuilt the front end (hubs, ball joints, etc.) and I was able to purchase ball joints for the lower control arm and did not remove the control arm, just placed a jack underneath and adjusted it as needed to remove/install other parts.

If you need to replace the control arm then I would have the same concerns with not being to release all of the tension or getting the index correct for the torsion bar.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: SVTCobra
Are you needing to replace the entire control arm or just the ball joint? Never done this job on a Chevy but on my F150 it uses the same torsion bar setup. I rebuilt the front end (hubs, ball joints, etc.) and I was able to purchase ball joints for the lower control arm and did not remove the control arm, just placed a jack underneath and adjusted it as needed to remove/install other parts.

If you need to replace the control arm then I would have the same concerns with not being to release all of the tension or getting the index correct for the torsion bar.


I'm wanting to replace it all.

The new arms will have new non 21 year old bushings too. Lol.

 

[Trav]

Yes you can do it that way without the tool. Loosen the key bolts, disconnect the lower ball joints and drop the lower control arms, let them hang loose with no tension then remove the bolts.
Make sure the key bolts are one piece and full length I see a few broken ones on GM.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Yes you can do it that way without the tool. Loosen the key bolts, disconnect the lower ball joints and drop the lower control arms, let them hang loose with no tension then remove the bolts.
Make sure the key bolts are one piece and full length I see a few broken ones on GM.


The better question is: How would you do it??

 

[clinebarger]

If it has stock torsion keys.....You can usually usually unload the bars by letting the control arm swivel all the way down after backing the torsion adjuster bolts off....Requires the vehicles to be pretty high off the ground!

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
The better question is: How would you do it??

I am happy to do a write up but of the guy has enough skills to do this job aside from one question I doubt he needs it.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
The better question is: How would you do it??

I am happy to do a write up but of the guy has enough skills to do this job aside from one question I doubt he needs it.


I was just curious if you would or would not use the torsion bar tool?

I've done the job before with the tool. Didn't enjoy it one bit.

 

[Trav]

Oh okay, sorry I didn't see you were the OP.

Support the LCA with a jack and mark the key adjusting screw then fully loosen it counting the number of turns so you can get it close later, or just remove the bolt (counting the number of turns) so you can remove the pin that the bolt threads into so it drops even further later if need be.

With the LCA still supported with a jack break the ball joint loose if you are changing the arm and joint a pickle fork and BFH works well.

Support (if possible) the UCA with a block of wood between the arm and frame rail, it will prevent the cv joint from flexing too far and possibly tearing a boot.

Lower the jack and the arm down until there is no more tension on it, just let it hang free.

Remove the LCA bolts and remove it from the mounts then remove the arm from the torsion bar, if its rotten and wont come out time for the BFH again (some even need a smoke wrench in the rust belt).

Reinstall is reverse of taking it apart, connect the ball joint to the knuckle and jack the LCA up, reinstall the adjusting bolt to the original position then you can change the UCA. Tighten both arm mounting bolts to final torque with the weight of the vehicle on them.

 

[dlundblad]

Been a while since I've done the job, but isn't the adjusting key and bolt under a lot of stress?

I didn't think it could be removed without the tool backing the key off the bolt.

 

[Trav]

Sure it is but not as much as when there is no load on it, it will loosen easily. You wont get the pin out till you break the lower ball joint free and lower the LCA.
You must use a tool or 2 arm puller if you are not dissembling the LCA. Here you can see how easy to remove the bolt, they are not removing the LCA so they use a puller. If they had lowered the LCA the bar and key would be loose so you can remove the pin without the puller, the LCA will be way down so jack the truck up high.



Edit: This is another video which is probably better at giving you the idea.

 

[dlundblad]

For those who are curious, apparently the tool does not work for 4 door blazers with the fuel tank on the driver side.

 

[benjy]

i seen my independent pro alignment just smack connections with a BIG hammer!!! it works