I have been thinking of installing a remote trans oil filter on my 05 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed auto. I am looking a the unit Summit racing has that uses a spin on oil filter.It installs on the return line, and I was going to mount it in the engine compartment on the fender. Is it a good idea? And will it be to much of a restriction, I also have a trans cooler. I flushed the trans, and want to keep the fluid clean.
Remote transmission filter 05 Tacoma
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It looks like your transmission makes some decent line pressure.
I would think that it would be ok. Have you ever through about just adding a magnefine?
I would think that it would be ok. Have you ever through about just adding a magnefine?
I just looked it up. That is pretty cool that it uses an FL1A filter. Nice and big and super common.
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Yeah, I just don't want to starve the trans for oil with a restriction on the return. These are the specs on the FL1A
Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 5.190 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.780 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve Yes
Relief Valve Open (psi) 11-14 psi
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 20 microns
Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 5.190 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.780 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve Yes
Relief Valve Open (psi) 11-14 psi
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 20 microns
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It won't starve. Thin ATF will flow a lot better then motor oil in the same filter. And, the built in bypass will take care of any 'incidents'.
Its similar to the Permacool, Transdapt, B&M... and other ATF kits that also use the same PH8a sized filter. You can also use the double sized Ph977 or short PH16, or even the smaller ph3600/ph3614.... depending on room.
A filtermag or equivalent, will make up for the lack of magnetic filtration.
For those that like to 'show', Trasko and Stilko have pretty aluminum filters.
Its similar to the Permacool, Transdapt, B&M... and other ATF kits that also use the same PH8a sized filter. You can also use the double sized Ph977 or short PH16, or even the smaller ph3600/ph3614.... depending on room.
A filtermag or equivalent, will make up for the lack of magnetic filtration.
For those that like to 'show', Trasko and Stilko have pretty aluminum filters.
Go for it. Cheap insurance for a very expensive component. If you do though, replace the first filter at like 100 miles, the second at around 500 or so and then extend from there. The filters are cheap enough not to. Pictures I've seen of them cut open after as little as 100 or so miles show that within about that time is when most of the junk flowing through is going to be caught and then it tapers off.
One thing I was thinking about was pressure... Under drive conditions, wouldn't it throw that filter into bypass quite a bit?
I wish I had something with an auto that would be worth using one of those kits =)
I wish I had something with an auto that would be worth using one of those kits =)
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Originally Posted By: Jdblya
One thing I was thinking about was pressure... Under drive conditions, wouldn't it throw that filter into bypass quite a bit?
I wish I had something with an auto that would be worth using one of those kits =)
No. The pressure differential should be non-existent in a static sense (by that I mean "clean" and not unusually loaded). The line is so skinny and long that it should be responsible for all of the pressure you see at the filter. The filter should be a radical slow down for the fluid compared to the screaming velocity through a 5/16" tube. Think of a shop vac collection chamber. High velocity in ...lots of dead space ..high velocity out. You should see fractional inches of W.C. to note the velocity change.
Edit: A fellow member, who's a testing engineer at PALL Filtration, used a 3um Beta 1000 hydraulic filter with an electrically switched bypass mechanism. He wired it to an unused dash indicator. Over a very long time span he never saw it work. I forget the threshold pressure. His user name was Schultz if you want to search it.
One thing I was thinking about was pressure... Under drive conditions, wouldn't it throw that filter into bypass quite a bit?
I wish I had something with an auto that would be worth using one of those kits =)
No. The pressure differential should be non-existent in a static sense (by that I mean "clean" and not unusually loaded). The line is so skinny and long that it should be responsible for all of the pressure you see at the filter. The filter should be a radical slow down for the fluid compared to the screaming velocity through a 5/16" tube. Think of a shop vac collection chamber. High velocity in ...lots of dead space ..high velocity out. You should see fractional inches of W.C. to note the velocity change.
Edit: A fellow member, who's a testing engineer at PALL Filtration, used a 3um Beta 1000 hydraulic filter with an electrically switched bypass mechanism. He wired it to an unused dash indicator. Over a very long time span he never saw it work. I forget the threshold pressure. His user name was Schultz if you want to search it.
Im running a bypass filter from Amsoil on my 06 tacoma. Im very happy with it thus far. Gary turned me onto the setup which was done by a member on here who owned a taxi fleet several years ago.
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The way you have it setup, Az, will produce the cleanest fluid.
I looked back and found you post with pics of your setup azfireguy79. I am not sure exactly what you did. Is your set up tee'd into the supply and return side of the cooler lines? And what .030 reducer. Could you elaborate on your set up, or point me in the direction of the setup done by the taxi fleet owner?
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