I've had my by-pass on for over 1 year and no leaks. I made sure and used good teflon tape. As well as using quality fittings.
Also have installed several other dual remotes and have not had any complaints of leaks.
Remote mounted Bypass Filters
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Also have installed several other dual remotes and have not had any complaints of leaks.
I was a big fan of teflon tape on all fittings, but now I use Loctite pipe sealant with teflon. If it leaks with this the fittings are bad, but I have never had that happen. Go to any plumbing supply or good hardware store. An 8 1/2 oz tube has lasted over 10 years so far and still 3/4 full.
Spector, I agree with your analysis on the bypass filter. But when I see oil analysis using 100% synthetic and in 3K or less the oil is at the end of it's life, I start to wonder. I have over 6K on my present oil, dino and still going strong as per analysis, listed in the oil analysis section.
A question was asked if the bypass will skew oil analysis, and the answer is "Yes" to a point. The analysis is seeing the particles that the engine does. So you still have wear, but with analitically clean oil circulating in the engine instead of large wear particles. Over 30 posts are dedicated to Full Flow filters and the concensus is that they are worthless with a bypass valve in the filter or engine. So use a $2 FF and a remote bypass and no more worries. The advantage is no problem on the bypass valve in the FF as the remote filter will filter it, clean oil circulating continously and a happy engine and owner. Go back and look at the analysis, don't blame Mobil or Amsoil or whoever, blame the filtration system, the oil is doing it's job.
Spector, I agree with your analysis on the bypass filter. But when I see oil analysis using 100% synthetic and in 3K or less the oil is at the end of it's life, I start to wonder. I have over 6K on my present oil, dino and still going strong as per analysis, listed in the oil analysis section.
A question was asked if the bypass will skew oil analysis, and the answer is "Yes" to a point. The analysis is seeing the particles that the engine does. So you still have wear, but with analitically clean oil circulating in the engine instead of large wear particles. Over 30 posts are dedicated to Full Flow filters and the concensus is that they are worthless with a bypass valve in the filter or engine. So use a $2 FF and a remote bypass and no more worries. The advantage is no problem on the bypass valve in the FF as the remote filter will filter it, clean oil circulating continously and a happy engine and owner. Go back and look at the analysis, don't blame Mobil or Amsoil or whoever, blame the filtration system, the oil is doing it's job.
Somebody educate me - How does the Amsoil Dual Remote Filter mount differ from, say, a PermaCool dual remote filter kit? I assume the PermaCool casting has the filters plumbed in parallel also, so why would it not work with a full flow and bypass filter as well as the Amsoil unit? Are there restriction orifices in the Amsoil unit?
Teflon tape does have the potential to leak more than pipe dope.
In liquid systens, pipe dope has more of a potential to clog filters, ruin servo valves and the like especially when used by numb skull contractors and mechanics who think a little is good and too much is even better.
My preference is to use tape on liquid pipe fittings and dope on gas systems.
In liquid systens, pipe dope has more of a potential to clog filters, ruin servo valves and the like especially when used by numb skull contractors and mechanics who think a little is good and too much is even better.
My preference is to use tape on liquid pipe fittings and dope on gas systems.
MolaKule - Where did the leaks occur on the Amsoil Dual Remote assembly for your '86 Suburban? I am contemplating adding a bypass filter, and the Amsoil unit looked pretty "bulletproof". Just curious why the single remote worked better.
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Glenford, the perma cool is just a remote full flow filter mounting kit. It has not connections for a by-pass filter.
A by-pass filter is a kind of a super filter that is capable of submicron filtration. Most full flow filters can only remove contaminants down to about 30-40 microns.
Most by-pass filters and remove 1-3 microns at 90% or more.
The amsoil dual remote allows for the remote mounting of the full flow filter as well as the by-pass which is right beside the full flow. Only a small portion of the oil flow goes the through by-pass filter(it has a restrictor valve) This way you still get 100% of your oil filter with your full flow and a certian portion that get super filtered.
msparks - The PermaCool unit I was looking at was a dual unit that accommodated two, spin-on filters. You have answered my question, though. The port to the bypass filter needs a restriction of some kind. Thanks.
I'm missing something in your logic. A FF filter bypass valve does not remove the filter from the oil's path...it limits the pressure differential across the filter media. If the oil is hot and the media isn't clogged, won't all or most of the oil pass though the media? Even if the bypass valve opens, it still maintains the specified pressure differential across the media so part of the oil is forced through the media and filtered.
Years ago some cars had only a bypass filter. Were we better off with that arrangement than with a full flow filter? Don't know. I do know that a bypass filter isn't worth the money unless the vehicle owner plans on keeping his rig for many, many years and many hundreds of thousands of miles.
Ken
[ August 29, 2002, 01:41 PM: Message edited by: Ken ]
Where does the output of the bypass element go? It seems to have significant pressure drop passing through the bypass filter and must discharge into a lower pressure area. The oil passing through the full-flow filter has only a few psi pressure drop as it goes into the oily system. The Amsoil single bypass setup discharges into the engine fill tube, or some other convenient place on the engine which has no oil pressure.quote:
Originally posted by msparks:
[QB
.....
The amsoil dual remote allows for the remote mounting of the full flow filter as well as the by-pass which is right beside the full flow. Only a small portion of the oil flow goes the through by-pass filter(it has a restrictor valve) This way you still get 100% of your oil filter with your full flow and a certian portion that get super filtered.
[/QB]
Ken
Ken,
That is precisely the point of my original question, though I did not express it clearly. How does the bypass filter work when hooked up to the same supply and return as the FF filter? How do we know ANY oil is passng through the bypass filter? I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that I don't understand how it works. Does anyone know what the design flow rate and pressure drop are for the Amsoil Bypass filter?
That is precisely the point of my original question, though I did not express it clearly. How does the bypass filter work when hooked up to the same supply and return as the FF filter? How do we know ANY oil is passng through the bypass filter? I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that I don't understand how it works. Does anyone know what the design flow rate and pressure drop are for the Amsoil Bypass filter?
I do know that a bypass filter isn't worth the money unless the vehicle owner plans on keeping his rig for many, many years and many hundreds of thousands of miles.
Ken[/QB][/QUOTE]
Ken,
On most grocery getters I agree, change the oil and FF filter at 3K and the vehicle will be around when most others are finished.
Now look at my situation, 2 trucks, 15 qt. capacity each, 3K severe service, 5K normal service. so 15 quarts of oil and a $10 Motorcraft 1995 FF every 3K miles on each as I do tow heavy with them.
Now using Delo 400 conventional, and over 5.8K on the oil so far and still going strong. Look in the analysis section for the readout, the numbers are good. I did the analysis at 4.5K which was 1.5K past the Ford recommended change and I am close to double that now with only a FF change, 2qts for the filter and 1 qt. makeup. (Uses 1 qt. per 4.5K miles). Was my FF bypass valve stuck open, gasket worn or just not working? I don't know, as the bypass did the job as designed, so the FF is just a 2 qt oil storage, partial cooler and increased oil capacity to me.
In my case, I will more than pay for the cost of the bypass filter in this situation. On my Mazda 626 I don't have a bypass filter, I just change oil at 12 months with a FF change at 6 months. I don't even get it tested, about 4.5K a year. The engine will probably outlast me, but I won't take bets on the auto trans.
Ken[/QB][/QUOTE]
Ken,
On most grocery getters I agree, change the oil and FF filter at 3K and the vehicle will be around when most others are finished.
Now look at my situation, 2 trucks, 15 qt. capacity each, 3K severe service, 5K normal service. so 15 quarts of oil and a $10 Motorcraft 1995 FF every 3K miles on each as I do tow heavy with them.
Now using Delo 400 conventional, and over 5.8K on the oil so far and still going strong. Look in the analysis section for the readout, the numbers are good. I did the analysis at 4.5K which was 1.5K past the Ford recommended change and I am close to double that now with only a FF change, 2qts for the filter and 1 qt. makeup. (Uses 1 qt. per 4.5K miles). Was my FF bypass valve stuck open, gasket worn or just not working? I don't know, as the bypass did the job as designed, so the FF is just a 2 qt oil storage, partial cooler and increased oil capacity to me.
In my case, I will more than pay for the cost of the bypass filter in this situation. On my Mazda 626 I don't have a bypass filter, I just change oil at 12 months with a FF change at 6 months. I don't even get it tested, about 4.5K a year. The engine will probably outlast me, but I won't take bets on the auto trans.
Glenford,
the Amsoil dual remote setup has special workings inside that allow for the full flow of the oil to the engine, then a metering device that allow some oil to go the the by-pass filter.
If you used 2 FF filter, even with a restriction device, it would still only filter at the same micron level.
The reason for the restriction is because the media is so dense that only oil coming though at low pressure will work. High pressure oil would ruin the unit. This is the same with any by-pass filter. They all have some type of restriction.
Just want to make sure you are straight.
msparks
Right, of course. There has to be a restriction in the bypass filter to prevent robbing the oil from the engine. But this restriction causes a pressure reduction. The oil must flow to a lower pressure area, or it won't flow. Where is the lower pressure area to which the oil from the bypass filter flows?
I know, I can tell if it flows by feeling the warmth in the canister. But where does it flow to?...where is that lower pressure area? Or, is the pressure drop in the bypass element almost as low as the pressure drop in the FF element, so the output of the bypass goes on into the engine system?
Ken
[ August 29, 2002, 08:50 PM: Message edited by: Ken ]
Right, of course. There has to be a restriction in the bypass filter to prevent robbing the oil from the engine. But this restriction causes a pressure reduction. The oil must flow to a lower pressure area, or it won't flow. Where is the lower pressure area to which the oil from the bypass filter flows?
I know, I can tell if it flows by feeling the warmth in the canister. But where does it flow to?...where is that lower pressure area? Or, is the pressure drop in the bypass element almost as low as the pressure drop in the FF element, so the output of the bypass goes on into the engine system?
Ken
[ August 29, 2002, 08:50 PM: Message edited by: Ken ]
That is odd, my pressure goes up immediately.
We he sure it was installed correctly?? Also if it was I would send it back to be sure it wasn't defective.
msparks - I don't know if it was or was not installed correctly, but he owns a fleet of trucks and seems pretty knowledgable. He contacted the manufacturer for advice on this problem. He is not "down" on bypass filters, but just did not want the oil pressure decrease he was encountering. I asked the question to find out if the single remote bypass filter arrangement, because of its "tapping" a lower pressure point in the engine, would have less effect on "net engine oil pressure" than a dual remote setup. The dual remote is a more convenient hookup, but I don't want to sacrifice oil pressure for convenience.
MolaKule
Staff member
When I had a dual remote on my '86 Burb, I noticed a delay, but it was caused by oil draining back from the filtering assembly to the engine drain pan, and oil pressure had to build again on start-up through about 12 feet of hose. Otherwise, the oil pressure at idle was the same.
Why did I eventually remove it? At about 30,000 miles it started to leak and I could never get it stopped. Otherwise, it would have still been on there.
Why did I eventually remove it? At about 30,000 miles it started to leak and I could never get it stopped. Otherwise, it would have still been on there.
GlenFord,
The Amsoil Dual Remote bypass filter is an exclusive sold only by Amsoil as far as I know. It is vehicle specific in many cases. And before anybody gets the wrong idea, it is a very good set-up. Now having said that, my preference is a single bypass filter and leave the OEM FF. I tee off the oil pressure switch in most cases for pressure and return in a low pressure area, the oil pan, valve cover, oil filler neck or cap, depends on the vehicle.
The Amsoil single bypass is a cost effective filter and can be transferred from vehicle to vehicle.
The worst case I have ever seen is a 5 psi loss using a bypass filter and that was cured using a smaller in-line restriction at the output. I usually see a 0-3 psi loss. I have no personal experience with the Amsoil Dual bypass other than to help friends hook them up.
I personally use a Gulf Coast PT filter with a 6 quart capacity in the filter cannister on my truck. I would use the 1 quart TP filter on any 10qt and under oil pan capacity.
The Amsoil Dual Remote bypass filter is an exclusive sold only by Amsoil as far as I know. It is vehicle specific in many cases. And before anybody gets the wrong idea, it is a very good set-up. Now having said that, my preference is a single bypass filter and leave the OEM FF. I tee off the oil pressure switch in most cases for pressure and return in a low pressure area, the oil pan, valve cover, oil filler neck or cap, depends on the vehicle.
The Amsoil single bypass is a cost effective filter and can be transferred from vehicle to vehicle.
The worst case I have ever seen is a 5 psi loss using a bypass filter and that was cured using a smaller in-line restriction at the output. I usually see a 0-3 psi loss. I have no personal experience with the Amsoil Dual bypass other than to help friends hook them up.
I personally use a Gulf Coast PT filter with a 6 quart capacity in the filter cannister on my truck. I would use the 1 quart TP filter on any 10qt and under oil pan capacity.
This likely is going to show my ignorance of basic engine design, but so be it. The initial post of this thread mentioned that a bypass filter "usually does not affect oil pressure". My question is which bypass filter arrangement would affect engine oil pressure least; a BF fed from the oil pressure sending unit, or a "dual remote" arrangement where the BF takes a sidestream of the oil comimg from the engine's oil pump?
I ask this because I spoke to someone recently who experienced a delay in attaining oil pressure at engine startup after installing a dual FF/BF system. He eventually removed it.
[ September 09, 2002, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: GlenFord ]
I ask this because I spoke to someone recently who experienced a delay in attaining oil pressure at engine startup after installing a dual FF/BF system. He eventually removed it.
[ September 09, 2002, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: GlenFord ]
Would you still have that preference if your filter say was really small like the one on my F150??
Don't you have a PSD? That filter there is actually bigger than the one you can put on the Dual Remote.
In most cases the dual remote was designed so you can use a larger ff filter. If you feel that 1. the filter location of your stand filter is okay. or 2. your FF filter is of a decent size. Then heck ya a single By-pass makes sense.
For me though, any filter smaller than an SDF 26 is just too small!!
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