Remote/Auxiliary Spin-On Filter for Auto-Trans

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natenkiki2004

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Little background: I have a 1991 Ford Explorer with the automatic A4LD transmission with factory auxiliary cooler. I recently replaced the rubber hoses on the aux cooler and noticed the ATF that drained out was darker than I had expected. It was closer to black/brown than it was to fresh, clear ATF. I will be dropping the pan in a few months to replace some seals and the internal filter (which I hear is just a screen?) and will put in fresh fluid after that.

In the mean time, I've been reading about remote filters like this:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...8429_0101899816
I've seen all kinds of praise and smoother shifting claims after 100-200 miles and I'm tempted to get one installed because... what could it hurt?

My main question is; what about the bypass? The transmission fluid will be at a pretty good pressure and even though it's thinner than a motor oil, would it even pass through the filter element or would it all end up being bypassed through the filter's valve? I see specs on filters saying they should withstand the potential PSI of the fluid (burst pressure?) but they all seem to have a low bypass pressure rating.

I currently use the Motorcraft FL-1A for oil and it would be a treat to use the same for the transmission fluid. Would this even work or would it be best to get a hydraulic-rated filter?
 
Yep it works, I have one that is almost identical on my 1998 Ford F-150.

I change the full flow FL-1A filter every year. I only go around 5,000 miles a year on it, typically closer to 3,500 miles.

It gets one oil change a year, and I change both filters out then. I figure it keeps the ATF cooler, as there is an added quart to the capacity, and that the regular change keep the ATF very fresh.

It sees mostly moves. Friends and family that need something that wont fit in a car or SUV.

I haven't had a problem in the 4 years that I've had it installed.
 
Running the B&M 80277 kit in my work beater. Accepts the standard 3/4-16 threaded filters. Have had it for the past 19,560 miles. Can't say I noticed any difference in shifting, even during that polar vortex. If you want hydraulic filters to get the great beta ratios then you'll likely need a different kit as, for the most part, the threads are different.

Pretty sure the pressure in that cooling loop is pretty low. I remember my truck blowing a return line from the trans and after retracing my ATF crumb trail I measured that I drove 3/4 of a mile at 40mph before all 13qts dumped out and the pump ran dry...

Since I managed to stuff my kit forward of the drivers side wheel well, in the bumper, I ran a rather large filter the Fleetguard microglass LF3487. Holds a quart just by itself.

19,560 miles on the filter so far, will be interesting to see the guts after I cut it open at 25K.
 
The Racor LFS 22825 kit is specifically designed for Automatic Transmissions. The filter used has a 10 micron absolute rating. Recommended change interval is 30000.
Its pretty large and expensive, though. But, you could easily move it to another machine.
 
I would go with a Magnefine. The bulk of the wear metals is iron which at any size will be picked by by the magnet in the Magnefine. The media part of the Magnefine will pick up non ferrous metal and clutch wear. If you had a F250 or F350 then I would say maybe. But for a 1991 Explorer, the Magnefine is just what you need.
 
Originally Posted By: natenkiki2004
Little background: I have a 1991 Ford Explorer with the automatic A4LD transmission with factory auxiliary cooler. I recently replaced the rubber hoses on the aux cooler and noticed the ATF that drained out was darker than I had expected. It was closer to black/brown than it was to fresh, clear ATF. I will be dropping the pan in a few months to replace some seals and the internal filter (which I hear is just a screen?) and will put in fresh fluid after that.

In the mean time, I've been reading about remote filters like this:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...8429_0101899816
I've seen all kinds of praise and smoother shifting claims after 100-200 miles and I'm tempted to get one installed because... what could it hurt?

My main question is; what about the bypass? The transmission fluid will be at a pretty good pressure and even though it's thinner than a motor oil, would it even pass through the filter element or would it all end up being bypassed through the filter's valve? I see specs on filters saying they should withstand the potential PSI of the fluid (burst pressure?) but they all seem to have a low bypass pressure rating.

I currently use the Motorcraft FL-1A for oil and it would be a treat to use the same for the transmission fluid. Would this even work or would it be best to get a hydraulic-rated filter?


You could intall the system and use a synthetic like stratapore or even a bypass filter, and if you want both you can have it too, it is called Microgreen, it is full flow and bypass in one cartridge. IMHO.
 
It's good to see more info from people that use it themselves. I definitely haven't seen any negative effects reported with a setup like this.

Donald, I've thought about the Magnefine and my concern is the less surface area for filtering means it would clog faster. The plastic hose barbs and cost per-replacement are also a concern.

I realize the spin-on setup is likely overkill but once it's purchased, replacing the filter is $3.50 (Motorcraft FL-1A, Walmart) where the Magnefine is $12 (Amazon.com).

You can bet that whatever I install, it will be clogged up quick since my fluid is quite dirty.

The spin-on filter is definitely overkill for a power steering system so I might be tempted to throw a Magnefine on there but there's a lot of fluid and a lot more cost associated with contaminants and wear with a trans. I'd rather be over-cautious in that scenario. Also, I'm not too concerned about space, there's plenty of it to mount a full-size spin-on filter. Being in the computer trade, I have access to quite a few magnets from hard drives, they are VERY powerful. I'd stick some on the outside of the filter housing to capture magnetic particles.


I'm just unsure about the bypass. Has anyone actually opened up a spin-on oil filter they used on their trans? Did it actually collect crud or did it just bypass it all due to pressure?
 
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Am I barking up the right tree with this as far as cooling line pressures?

A4LD_Line_Pressure.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: natenkiki2004
Am I barking up the right tree with this as far as cooling line pressures?

A4LD_Line_Pressure.jpg



I don't know much about Ford transmissions but in the ones from Chrysler the line pressure is for the internal operation of the transmission, the cooling line if you will works at less than 25PSI worst case scenario, My believe is that in your case is the same, if you think about it a bit, 200PSI, 300+PSI will not be hold by a rubber hose with a clamp, so the filter will never go into bypass unless it is clogged by debris, JMHO.
 
You did great! my only concern is that it might get hit with something but looks to be protected by the bumper, you can use a P1 filter that traps more dirt, Do you have it connected before or after the cooler? before the cooler will filter better with lower flow loss plus if anything catastrophic happens the debris will be stopped at the filter and not lodged inside the cooler core. I lived in Pocatello for some time in the early '90s
 
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Thanks
smile.gif
It's pretty well protected by the bumper. Less than 1/2" hanging below the bumper lip. I also lowered and brought the bumper out a bit. If I ram something hard enough, it will probably break the cast housing but I can just cut hoses and hook it up without the filter.

I read about people hooking them up before the cooler but I didn't want to have to cut steel tubing and flare it for rubber hose. I have it connected between the rad tank cooler and the auxiliary cooler. After driving a few miles, the trans filter gets too hot to touch so it flows plenty fine.

Can't say I notice any miracles but certainly no downsides. No leaks and everythings good.

Since that picture, I also put some split loom around the hoses where they rub against metal. All in all, you can't even see it when looking at the front of the car. I'll have to get an "after" picture one of these days.


I haven't been down to Pocatello myself but I hear they don't get near the snow we do up north. It's just now melted, causing all kinds of flooding.
 
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