Refinishing very old wood garage doors

[JHZR2]

One of the garage buildings I own, which is probably 100 years old, has two tall garage doors. I don’t think they’re absolutely original, I think there was some sort of sliding doors there.

So figure they’re from likely sometime between 1926-1959 - the 40s or 50s, I’d guess.

Well the paint was long peeling, and at some point the prior owner slapped some paint on them and covered them with siding. They didn’t look bad like that, but I’d like to preserve them properly.

Some of the panels are failed.

The paint is either strongly adhered or flaking off.

I did replace the entire bottom row on the one door with a custom built panel set. The other door is better, minus the squares, but does have this:

I’m not really interested in replacing. The metal doors, while light, are all junk or industrial/ugly. Fiberglass is too fake, and another wood door will be lower quality. And everything is expensive for what it is.

I’d like to stabilize and get proper paint adhesion. And somehow fill in that corner. But more important is the paint.

I got out my festool stuff, wore a mask, and sanded everything with 60. The rest of the paint I’d say is pretty well stuck on.

I need to do something pretty water tight. The bottom level I made in the one door is already showing plywood panel failure.

So I need to seal, stabilize, replace some panels, form up things like this, with T88 and whatever else:

But to start, any recommendations on prepping the old wood to accept primer and paint?

 

[andyd]

Good idea to use a mask, because if it is older than the early 70s, exterior paint had white lead in it instead titanium dioxide. . Doors are probably Douglas fir or redwood. Pine or spruce wouldn't have lasted this long. Replace any panels with A/C fir or better yet marine plywood

 

[eljefino]

Yeah that "looks like" lead paint just the way it's falling off.

The doors themselves also look like a lost cause with rotten wood throughout, but I'm prepared to be proven wrong. Stab around with a utility knife looking for soft spots.

 

[JHZR2]

Yeah that "looks like" lead paint just the way it's falling off.

The doors themselves also look like a lost cause with rotten wood throughout, but I'm prepared to be proven wrong. Stab around with a utility knife looking for soft spots.

There’s no soft spots. They’re fine except for the ply panels. The one corner I showed is damaged, but it’s not soft or rotten, it was somehow broken. The bracket is bent a bit.

I’ve owned the building a few years now. I’ve looked at them a lot. I’ve also worked on the insides, like a few bent hinges, new springs, etc.

The lowest layer of the one door had some soft wood at the very bottom, which is why I built a replacement.

Good idea to use a mask, because if it is older than the early 70s, exterior paint had white lead in it instead titanium dioxide. . Doors are probably Douglas fir or redwood. Pine or spruce wouldn't have lasted this long. Replace any panels with A/C fir or better yet marine plywood

I’ll have to see where I can get that. Thanks!

A/C is just the grade or the sanding level, no?

 

[snarl]

Any home before 1978-79 may have lead paint.

 

[JHZR2]

Any home before 1978-79 may have lead paint.

No kidding. That’s far from the point of the discussion.

I assume it has lead paint, and use festool hepa equipment to work the surfaces, plus a mask, plus it’s outdoors.

I’m more concerned about prepping the bare wood, treating it well, and with the right products that will last…

 

[andyd]

There’s no soft spots. They’re fine except for the ply panels. The one corner I showed is damaged, but it’s not soft or rotten, it was somehow broken. The bracket is bent a bit.

I’ve owned the building a few years now. I’ve looked at them a lot. I’ve also worked on the insides, like a few bent hinges, new springs, etc.

The lowest layer of the one door had some soft wood at the very bottom, which is why I built a replacement.


I’ll have to see where I can get that. Thanks!

A/C is just the grade or the sanding level, no?

A/C was clear one side and other side with open knots. Best grade for land usage. Marine plywood is the best wood and glue. I would use small clear pieces of pressure treated SYP to repair doors down low. Galvanized steel brackets to hold stuff together if need be.

 

[JHZR2]

A/C was clear one side and other side with open knots. Best grade for land usage. Marine plywood is the best wood and glue. I would use small clear pieces of pressure treated SYP to repair doors down low. Galvanized steel brackets to hold stuff together if need be.

Thanks.

Clear one side and sanded is what I have. I do have some of that copper "pressure treat" chemical someplace I could put on before painting...

The issue with the door corner is that the spring loaded bracket is in place there. What approach would you take to remove wood and affix new? Cut out the entire corner and install new wood? Cut to a certain depth and place a cut to fit block in there to square it out?

 

[ecotourist]

I repaired a garage door in similar condition. The house was built between 1928 and 1930 and I supposed the door was original.

Strip the paint (assume it's lead based), sand and paint with modern high quality outdoor primer and paint.

My bottom row was rotten in places so I replaced it. None of my panels had failed.

It looked good afterwards. Better than modern stuff. Be sure to keep the original hardware and metal labels.

 

[billt460]

I skimmed through this. But he does show how he repaired a lot of the rotten wood he had. (His door was in much worse shape than yours is showing in the pictures you posted). He also replaced some of the glass with Plexiglass.

 

[Langanobob]

There is a product called Penetrol that is mainly used as an oil based paint additive. It’s also an excellent primer and sealer. Penetrol is what I’d use as a primer on your doors. Good on you for caring about them.

 

[JHZR2]

There is a product called Penetrol that is mainly used as an oil based paint additive. It’s also an excellent primer and sealer. Penetrol is what I’d use as a primer on your doors. Good on you for caring about them.

Ive seen penetrol recommended as an additive to oil paint. In the past I’ve also used oil primers cut with mineral spirits per recommendation from @demarpaint

Ive not heard of penetrol being used as a primer itself.

 

[demarpaint]

Ive seen penetrol recommended as an additive to oil paint. In the past I’ve also used oil primers cut with mineral spirits per recommendation from @demarpaint

Ive not heard of penetrol being used as a primer itself.

Some of the old timers did that. I used the product as a rust preventative and added it to oil paint to get it to flow better and level better, especially when the EPA started with the VOC laws and ruined oil base paints and primers. The problem with using Penetrol on wood as a primer, or a pre-primer primer is in certain regions where mold and mildew is a problem it can actually promote the growth of it.

 

[RhondaHonda]

I’d strip the paint on the handles and lock cylinder while you are doing all this, just to make them look cool. Neat project.

 

[JHZR2]

I’d strip the paint on the handles and lock cylinder while you are doing all this, just to make them look cool. Neat project.

I thought the same. Not sure what’s the best bet to do it without ruining the patina below. Mineral spirits rub? Paint thinner? Motor oil? Carb cleaner??

 

[RhondaHonda]

I thought the same. Not sure what’s the best bet to do it without ruining the patina below. Mineral spirits rub? Paint thinner? Motor oil? Carb cleaner??

No idea but I think it really makes the project.