Redline Water Wetter....
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Im using it right now in the Jeep. I just have a dummy guage on mine, but I've heard from many sources that it DOES work.
A lot of race teams use it as a replacement for engine coolant, when antifreeze isnt allowed on the track. It cools better than straight water.
A lot of race teams use it as a replacement for engine coolant, when antifreeze isnt allowed on the track. It cools better than straight water.
If you run 50/50 antifreeze/water as most do, it will have a negligible effect. Works best when there is a ery high percentage of water in the coolant.
^^^+1 I've never used it. But, what I've read on this board says it's unnecessary. Regular cooling system maintenance with at least a 50% coolant concentration should be all you need.
i've used this product and it's works, my temp gauge get lower 5Deg C when idle and running 2000-3000rpm. before use this i contact RL for ask some question about this product.
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Surfactants (which WW is) enhance heat transfer. This doesn't necessarily mean your engine will be any cooler, but heat will transfer in and out of the coolant more readily.
If you're cruising on the highway, your engine temp is probably being regulated by the thermostat and WW won't make any difference. If you're in situations where your coolant is regularly above the thermostat temperature, then it may may a difference.
Beware, however, WW forms brown sludge in some kinds of coolant. It did in G-48 (BMW OE) for me, but not in a couple of other coolants my independent mechanic has used before I DIYed almost everything.
I had a Porsche which made tons of heat and saw some heavy use from time to time. I ran WW in 50/50 and thought it made a difference. In my other cars I figured "what's the harm". I stopped using it altogether after "the harm" showed itself in G-48.
If you're cruising on the highway, your engine temp is probably being regulated by the thermostat and WW won't make any difference. If you're in situations where your coolant is regularly above the thermostat temperature, then it may may a difference.
Beware, however, WW forms brown sludge in some kinds of coolant. It did in G-48 (BMW OE) for me, but not in a couple of other coolants my independent mechanic has used before I DIYed almost everything.
I had a Porsche which made tons of heat and saw some heavy use from time to time. I ran WW in 50/50 and thought it made a difference. In my other cars I figured "what's the harm". I stopped using it altogether after "the harm" showed itself in G-48.
I agree. I don't think much of WW. Antifreeze has similar surfacant additives anyway, plus WW has some inhibitors and while it may be compatible with other anti-freeze I don't like to run a cocktail of extra inhibitors. If you ran it with straight water it might cooler better, but WW inhibitor package is probably not that great.
If you are going to run straight water better to get a real inhibitor pack like Pencool 3000 or Cummins DCA4, inhibitor packs that are endorse by many OEs.
If you are going to run straight water better to get a real inhibitor pack like Pencool 3000 or Cummins DCA4, inhibitor packs that are endorse by many OEs.
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Surfactants (which WW is) enhance heat transfer. This doesn't necessarily mean your engine will be any cooler, but heat will transfer in and out of the coolant more readily.
If you're cruising on the highway, your engine temp is probably being regulated by the thermostat and WW won't make any difference. If you're in situations where your coolant is regularly above the thermostat temperature, then it may may a difference.
I currently run Motul Mocool (Redline equivilant) without any other coolant. It's summer here so I dont need to worry about freezing nor does my vehicle over heat and with 9 psi radiator cap raising boiling point enough.
I am going to disagree with the 2nd parragraph of the above quote.
Since heat transfer is increased, the same cooling effect is had by less water flow. This means that the thermostate does not have to open as far to keep the engine temp at it's predetermined setting. End result is that whilst cruising on the hwy the water pump does not have to pump as much water and this reserves power and increases economy.
I think the best way to check the following would be with a oil temp guage.
Motul however advertise that Mocool will reduce engine temps by up to 15 degrees C. If you think about it, the engine heats the water, the thermostate regulates the water temp, The temp gauge reads water temp.
If with pure water in the radiator the engine is 30 degrees C over the water temp as cool water enters the engine from the radiator and pure water can only absorb a certain amount of heat during its time in the motor before reaching the thermostate and temp sender. The hotter the motor gets the faster the water flows the less heat it will absorb.
Surfactants (which WW is) enhance heat transfer. This doesn't necessarily mean your engine will be any cooler, but heat will transfer in and out of the coolant more readily.
If you're cruising on the highway, your engine temp is probably being regulated by the thermostat and WW won't make any difference. If you're in situations where your coolant is regularly above the thermostat temperature, then it may may a difference.
I currently run Motul Mocool (Redline equivilant) without any other coolant. It's summer here so I dont need to worry about freezing nor does my vehicle over heat and with 9 psi radiator cap raising boiling point enough.
I am going to disagree with the 2nd parragraph of the above quote.
Since heat transfer is increased, the same cooling effect is had by less water flow. This means that the thermostate does not have to open as far to keep the engine temp at it's predetermined setting. End result is that whilst cruising on the hwy the water pump does not have to pump as much water and this reserves power and increases economy.
I think the best way to check the following would be with a oil temp guage.
Motul however advertise that Mocool will reduce engine temps by up to 15 degrees C. If you think about it, the engine heats the water, the thermostate regulates the water temp, The temp gauge reads water temp.
If with pure water in the radiator the engine is 30 degrees C over the water temp as cool water enters the engine from the radiator and pure water can only absorb a certain amount of heat during its time in the motor before reaching the thermostate and temp sender. The hotter the motor gets the faster the water flows the less heat it will absorb.
Originally Posted By: Joel_SHOEMARK
I am going to disagree with the 2nd parragraph of the above quote.
Since heat transfer is increased, the same cooling effect is had by less water flow. This means that the thermostate does not have to open as far to keep the engine temp at it's predetermined setting. End result is that whilst cruising on the hwy the water pump does not have to pump as much water and this reserves power and increases economy.
First, the discussion is about whether WW reduces temperatures, not whether it saves fuel. In that context your point doesn't disagree with anything I said - if the t-stat is operating to regulate engine temperature, the engine temperature is unchanged with or without extra surfactants.
Second, the water pump is pumping whether the t-stat is open or closed. I think that any difference in energy required to pump a given amount of water along the short path or the long path is inconsequential compared to ramming your vehicle through the air at 60mph+
I am going to disagree with the 2nd parragraph of the above quote.
Since heat transfer is increased, the same cooling effect is had by less water flow. This means that the thermostate does not have to open as far to keep the engine temp at it's predetermined setting. End result is that whilst cruising on the hwy the water pump does not have to pump as much water and this reserves power and increases economy.
First, the discussion is about whether WW reduces temperatures, not whether it saves fuel. In that context your point doesn't disagree with anything I said - if the t-stat is operating to regulate engine temperature, the engine temperature is unchanged with or without extra surfactants.
Second, the water pump is pumping whether the t-stat is open or closed. I think that any difference in energy required to pump a given amount of water along the short path or the long path is inconsequential compared to ramming your vehicle through the air at 60mph+
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
First, the discussion is about whether WW reduces temperatures, not whether it saves fuel. In that context your point doesn't disagree with anything I said - if the t-stat is operating to regulate engine temperature, the engine temperature is unchanged with or without extra surfactants.
Second, the water pump is pumping whether the t-stat is open or closed. I think that any difference in energy required to pump a given amount of water along the short path or the long path is inconsequential compared to ramming your vehicle through the air at 60mph+
I have owner and replaced water pumps on a Suzuki GTI, Toyota FJ40 and a Toyota Corrola. Only the Corrola with a 4K toyota motor had a small bypass hose. Both the others did not pump water when the t-state was closed as the water has no where to go.
If you get a small fan from a computer power supply and place it on a bench, you hear it spin up immediatly it stops flowing air.
As for how much power loss. I am unsure about the water pump but I can assure you removing the fan pulley from my FJ40 to fit a electric thermo fan and an electic water pump made a huge differance.
Radiators and the water inside is like a heat sink. Heat is generated when you make power, like taking of from a stop, accellerating for a minute or so. Once you are moving that heat that was gerenater causes the thermostate to open more, then the water moves to the radiator and them the thermo fan kicks in and hopfully by this time you are up and cruising and not needing the extra power.
Sorry if I am a bit old school with a direct drive fan.
First, the discussion is about whether WW reduces temperatures, not whether it saves fuel. In that context your point doesn't disagree with anything I said - if the t-stat is operating to regulate engine temperature, the engine temperature is unchanged with or without extra surfactants.
Second, the water pump is pumping whether the t-stat is open or closed. I think that any difference in energy required to pump a given amount of water along the short path or the long path is inconsequential compared to ramming your vehicle through the air at 60mph+
I have owner and replaced water pumps on a Suzuki GTI, Toyota FJ40 and a Toyota Corrola. Only the Corrola with a 4K toyota motor had a small bypass hose. Both the others did not pump water when the t-state was closed as the water has no where to go.
If you get a small fan from a computer power supply and place it on a bench, you hear it spin up immediatly it stops flowing air.
As for how much power loss. I am unsure about the water pump but I can assure you removing the fan pulley from my FJ40 to fit a electric thermo fan and an electic water pump made a huge differance.
Radiators and the water inside is like a heat sink. Heat is generated when you make power, like taking of from a stop, accellerating for a minute or so. Once you are moving that heat that was gerenater causes the thermostate to open more, then the water moves to the radiator and them the thermo fan kicks in and hopfully by this time you are up and cruising and not needing the extra power.
Sorry if I am a bit old school with a direct drive fan.
Originally Posted By: Joel_SHOEMARK
I have owner and replaced water pumps on a Suzuki GTI, Toyota FJ40 and a Toyota Corrola. Only the Corrola with a 4K toyota motor had a small bypass hose. Both the others did not pump water when the t-state was closed as the water has no where to go.
It circulates throughout the block and the heater. Maybe in Oz you don't use your heat a lot, but here if the water pump didn't move coolant unless the t-stat was open we'd be in a lot of trouble.
I have owner and replaced water pumps on a Suzuki GTI, Toyota FJ40 and a Toyota Corrola. Only the Corrola with a 4K toyota motor had a small bypass hose. Both the others did not pump water when the t-state was closed as the water has no where to go.
It circulates throughout the block and the heater. Maybe in Oz you don't use your heat a lot, but here if the water pump didn't move coolant unless the t-stat was open we'd be in a lot of trouble.
I use it where I live with no anti freeze. Works great. My work vehicles that hit the high desert where it gets below freezing, but seldom long hard freezes, I use it with 1 gallon anti freeze.
Originally Posted By: Joel_SHOEMARK
I have owner and replaced water pumps on a Suzuki GTI, Toyota FJ40 and a Toyota Corrola. Only the Corrola with a 4K toyota motor had a small bypass hose. Both the others did not pump water when the t-state was closed as the water has no where to go.
It has to recirculate, or the hot water will never get to the thermostat.
I have owner and replaced water pumps on a Suzuki GTI, Toyota FJ40 and a Toyota Corrola. Only the Corrola with a 4K toyota motor had a small bypass hose. Both the others did not pump water when the t-state was closed as the water has no where to go.
It has to recirculate, or the hot water will never get to the thermostat.
I did a more extensive test running WW in the orange Dexcool stuff in my Catera.
As a result before the test I noted coolant temps run up to as high as 209deg before the fans kick in and it would drop to around 200deg.
now I have been watching it and I notice the max temp for the given run is never above 204-205deg, thats about 4deg cooler.
I think it helps a little bit but doesnt make a huge difference.
As a result before the test I noted coolant temps run up to as high as 209deg before the fans kick in and it would drop to around 200deg.
now I have been watching it and I notice the max temp for the given run is never above 204-205deg, thats about 4deg cooler.
I think it helps a little bit but doesnt make a huge difference.
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