Redline 10w-30 Q45 5046 miles
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My mistake -- I've been jumping around so many threads, I sometimes get mixed up about which idea is coming from where. . .
To be clear about what I'm getting at on the insols: RL is a relatively expensive oil (even compared to other good syns) that is advertised as being a long-drain product. I think I recall their promo stuff talking about 10k to 18k miles in normal street use, with intermediate filter changes. Now, assuming that your insols are building at a linear rate, you're going to be lucky to get to 7k miles on this oil before the insols reach unsafe levels. This may be OK for a garden variety cheap dino, but I would not be satisfied with this if I had paid $8 per quart for my oil. Sure, the absolute #s look about average, but since your oil claims not to be, I perceive a problem. But that's just me. And I think your TBN is going to beat the insols to the danger zone (or they may trip over each other racing to get there...).
Hope the M1 works for you. Have you considered trying the green stuff?
qship1996, you are still sucking dust and while you may have corrected some of the issues we discussed on the 144,646 test there are still some unresolved or residual effects from earlier.
Your vis is increased by oxidation from blowby and sandblasting the valve seals and rings.
NO lubricant including a group 5 base oil will clean and contain contamination without exhausting itself in the process.
Fix the dirt ingress and enjoy reduced wear.
Oil chemistry is not the issue here.
Your vis is increased by oxidation from blowby and sandblasting the valve seals and rings.
NO lubricant including a group 5 base oil will clean and contain contamination without exhausting itself in the process.
Fix the dirt ingress and enjoy reduced wear.
Oil chemistry is not the issue here.
I really want to like redline's engine oil, but it just doesn't cut it. In more reports than not it does not perform as well as Mobil 1, but yet there are always excuses. Sample must not have been drawn correctly, air filtration isn't right, oil was used in a car driven on fridays, etc.. I'm sorry but given the number of excuses, I would expect the people using Mobil 1 to be having the same issues with their samples.
I can't wait to here the excuse of this UOA when the Mobil 1 turns in better wear numbers. What will it be? The engine magically repaired itself? Redline finished cleaing after 50,000 miles and now Mobil 1 is benifiting?
Cary
I can't wait to here the excuse of this UOA when the Mobil 1 turns in better wear numbers. What will it be? The engine magically repaired itself? Redline finished cleaing after 50,000 miles and now Mobil 1 is benifiting?
Cary
Based on Terry's analysis I would recommend you try 2 things - irrespective of the oil you choose to use.
1. Auto-Rx to free up the rings, just in case they're stuck at all. Auto-Rx has worked WONDERS in my '89 Mazda MX-6 GT (2.2L turbo) for improved compression and turbo spool-up. In fact, even with the cleaning that the ARX did (in the first of two clean phases) the oil was not as dark as quickly as before. My poor engine must've had a LOT of blow-by!
2. Lube Control for oxidation control. Let the LC handle the oxidation and let the oil lubricate.
1. Auto-Rx to free up the rings, just in case they're stuck at all. Auto-Rx has worked WONDERS in my '89 Mazda MX-6 GT (2.2L turbo) for improved compression and turbo spool-up. In fact, even with the cleaning that the ARX did (in the first of two clean phases) the oil was not as dark as quickly as before. My poor engine must've had a LOT of blow-by!
2. Lube Control for oxidation control. Let the LC handle the oxidation and let the oil lubricate.
we will see what happens when the mobil 1 results are in!
I really have a hard time with having to use any additives with a top tier motor oil.as far as auto-rx,again with this cars frequent oil change intervals,and LIFETIME use of fully synthetic oils,i feel should not be necessary-it seems that on this board,it is regarded as the cure-all to any and every engine.this motor has always produced a very clean looking oil for the entire 5-6000 mile drain intervals.as far as sucking dust,the air filter was replaced with OEM at the start of this oci,and i cant find any air-leaks,nor could the techs at dealer.
I really have a hard time with having to use any additives with a top tier motor oil.as far as auto-rx,again with this cars frequent oil change intervals,and LIFETIME use of fully synthetic oils,i feel should not be necessary-it seems that on this board,it is regarded as the cure-all to any and every engine.this motor has always produced a very clean looking oil for the entire 5-6000 mile drain intervals.as far as sucking dust,the air filter was replaced with OEM at the start of this oci,and i cant find any air-leaks,nor could the techs at dealer.
I understand the resistance to that marketing paradigm that has been sold to folks using synthetics. Oil lubricates, Auto-RX cleans, ask either one to do the others primary job and the chemistry will be stressed. Regardless of brand.
The oil analysis results don't care what oil brand was used, the #'s speak the truth.
Cary, if he had been using M1 with the dirt ingress that has been there for a while ( 7ppm is average si for this engine in about 5000 miles) it would have stressed it too.
Guys try to move past the "brand" gig and look at what works in analysis.
qship, if its not a problem why not post the earlier raw data to show how the oil wear levels dropped using the current oil brand from the last run.
If a engine needs tuning, is fuel diluting, is ingesting dirt or has a chemical contamination issue from whatever source the oil is going to look like the culprit to the untrained eye.
Buying oil analysis without getting a proper interpretation is a waste of money.
Terryyour post raises more questions than answers for me!
7ppm of silicon for this engine universal average-my sample was 11ppm-not much higher to blame a dirt issue,especially when virgin samples of redline show elevated silicon numbers to begin with
auto rx cleans,oil lubricates? tons of posts here saying redline is cleaning! esters are natural cleaners and detergents,no?
the #s in this sample dont show me any serious dirt injestion,just average performance of this motor oil?
7ppm of silicon for this engine universal average-my sample was 11ppm-not much higher to blame a dirt issue,especially when virgin samples of redline show elevated silicon numbers to begin with
auto rx cleans,oil lubricates? tons of posts here saying redline is cleaning! esters are natural cleaners and detergents,no?
the #s in this sample dont show me any serious dirt injestion,just average performance of this motor oil?
previous{and only} other sample was done the interval before this one,it is posted on this board-yes this sample looks slightly better than the last one {also redline 10w-30}but this interval is also 30% fewer miles on sample and last sample had poor hygene sampling technique{ stored in dishwasher cleaned stainless steel coffee mug for 48 hours} Tbn sucked at 0.8,viscosity also thickened out of grade! this run of mobil 1 will be sampled at same mileage as current sample and we shall see!
We do and find RL doesn't perform well, period. People on this board want an oil that shows well in their vehicle.
In this sample Si is not high. Wear is fine though here, and pretty decent actually. What troubles me is the low TBN and high viscosity.
You shouldn't have to with a good synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil. What I like to do is use Auto-Rx every 15-20k miles and run a bottle of Redline Fuel System cleaner every 10k miles or so. That will keep your engine clean. No reason to doctor up a good oil IMO unless your really trying to EXTEND drains out to 15k + miles. Again, thats my opinion.
You can take this oil analysis paranoia to a ridiculous level if you let it. Look at how many people get 200+k miles out of their cars using cheap dino oil! So even my suggestions above are out their compared to most. And most likely something else is going to break in your car/truck that has ZERO to do with your oil!
my goal with this auto,since purchasing it,was to drive it 200-250,000 miles,keeping it running and looking near new by overmaintaining it{every fluid gets changed every 12 months period,oil every 90 days maximum} then dump it.this is the only way I can justify purchasing a 56,000 dollar vehicle.so far at 150,000 miles much $ has been spent in preventative maintenance and nil on repairs.car burns zero oil,and all i want to find an oil that will go 5-6500 miles per change to allow this to happen.
qship, how was this sample drawn?
quote:
Originally posted by buster:
Mensch, I'm really glad you said that. I was thinking you were a chemist.
thanks for the replys! as far as filters go,i want to keep a constant here and only change one thing at a time{the oil} and the filter I use is regarded as one of the best,specially made for the q45 & 300zxtwinturbo,no longer made,and has caused much uproar from owners due to it being superceeded by a run of the mill nissan part.as far as viscosity,the manufacturer recommends 30 weight oils only,no 40w-and I am trying to keep a constant for samples,same filter & weight of oil. this batch of mobil will tell much,i hope.
After all these months of comments and RedLine rhetoric one can come to the conclusion that regardless of the oil when One gets a poor UOA it is always the engine and something is not functioning properly somewhere. It is never the oil. In the case of redline, there is always a reason and it is never the oil. Terry, perhaps if you defended other oils in the same manner and said that there were engine issues as wll but it seems it only occurs with Redline. Has anyone every seen a poor UOA with redline where a problem did not exist in the engine, the oil just wore out or could not do the job??????????
As I stated above, I'm neither a RL user, nor am I planning on becoming one anytime soon. With that in mind, maybe this is just good oil. It's supposed to be a high-performance, long-life oil, so would it not be natural to suspect that indications of problems that arise before the oil should have worn our are caused by something else? I have not done a detailed screening of RL UOAs, but my impression is that the vast majority of them, good and bad, are done at shorter-than-recommended OCI.
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