Red line oil working to reduce consumption

EEE

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I have another thread that shows when I started to use Redline oil (0w20) in my 2013 Accord, oil consumption was reduced significantly through the first 3000 miles. After 3000 miles, oil consumption comes up. I end up putting about half a quart in, between 3000 and 4000 miles.

What about the RL is helping reduce oil consumption initially and what happens to it after 3000 miles to start burning again? I assuming thinning out over time. Would like to find an oil with similar properties that is more readily available locally.
 
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even the best oils that start very thin tend to thin a bit more with fuel dilution, BUT not seeing your location i would suggest a higher viscosity. going to higher viscosity in my BOOSTED 2001 TT 1.8T cut consumption + i see more vacuum. true synthetic 10-30 is actually a 30W but acts like a 10-30, a characteristic of group IV + V oils. dont forget wear as higher viscosities are often recommended.
 

OVERKILL

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I have another thread that shows when I started to use Redline oil (0w20) in my 2013 Accord, oil consumption was reduced significantly through the first 3000 miles. After 3000 miles, oil consumption comes up. I end up putting about half a quart in, between 3000 and 4000 miles.

What about the RL is helping reduce oil consumption initially and what happens to it after 3000 miles to start burning again? I assuming thinning out over time. Would like to find an oil with similar properties that is more readily available locally.
Assuming this is the white bottle stuff, it starts significantly heavier than other 0w-20's, making it almost an xW-30.
 

EEE

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So for winter I likely don't want to use RL its xW-30. If x=0, then I guess no issues for the winter.
 
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the cold spec @ 40C aka 104F BUT oils that are not real synthetic group IV + V are thicker-less vicious under that spec as noted on a machinery lubrication article, check owners manual for temp ranges + usually no distinction is made between various groups of oils + group IV + V oils use or need little or no VII depending on grade, a redline 30W advertised as 10-30 prolly uses NONE, better as the oil ages
 

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So for winter I likely don't want to use RL its xW-30. If x=0, then I guess no issues for the winter.
Yeah, it'll be fine, CCS and MRV for a 0w-xx are measured at -35C and -40C respectively. Redline's white bottle oils just tend to be heavy for the grade, as I noted.
 
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the cold spec @ 40C aka 104F BUT oils that are not real synthetic group IV + V are thicker-less vicious under that spec as noted on a machinery lubrication article, check owners manual for temp ranges + usually no distinction is made between various groups of oils + group IV + V oils use or need little or no VII depending on grade, a redline 30W advertised as 10-30 prolly uses NONE, better as the oil ages
Vicious oils are hard on the internals if they are really vicious. Viscous oils are definitely better. Sorry, I couldn’t help myself. I think the group V components probably help clean the ring package and might help reduce oil consumption even if temporarily.
 
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I have another thread that shows when I started to use Redline oil (0w20) in my 2013 Accord, oil consumption was reduced significantly through the first 3000 miles. After 3000 miles, oil consumption comes up. I end up putting about half a quart in, between 3000 and 4000 miles.

What about the RL is helping reduce oil consumption initially and what happens to it after 3000 miles to start burning again? I assuming thinning out over time. Would like to find an oil with similar properties that is more readily available locally.
Do a flush with Liqui Moly Engine Flush Pro-Line, you'll find it at NAPA. Then drain it, fill it back up with a fresh filter and run it for a couple of days. It will clean up the rest of the crud. Then do a final drain and fill. I suggest you use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, Castrol EDGE 0W-40, or Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40. Your oil consumption issues should be a thing of the past by now. I run Red Line, but my concern with it is engine sequence testing. At least with AMSOIL, I believe Lubrizol does it for them and sends them the recipes and additives. Red Line does internal testing and at the track, mostly on BMWs. At least they fixed their oxidative thickening issue, that one was weird.

The reason why you see oil consumption with 0W-20 is due to wear. 0W-20 has improved a lot in API SP, especially if you get it with a few approvals and certifications like MB 229.71 and ACEA C5, however, in the years past it was kind of crap. So engines that speced it tended to have more pronounced wear. Coupled with fuel dilution and spotty maintenance... you see where I'm going with this. These days, if your vehicle specs 0W-20, then you better do your oil changes like clockwork, and if you qualify for severe maintenance, then you better follow that schedule. Or run 0W-40 and worry less about it. You may give up 1%~2% MPG (maybe), and it may take slightly longer for the oil to get up to temperature, but you also get better protection. And no, I'm not knocking 0W-20, as in API SP form it's really good. Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 is awesome as well.
 
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higher viscosity oils will get up to temp quicker...
I based my comment on pure intuition. Since I live in a warm climate, even in winter, I can't tell much of a difference between low and high viscosity as far as getting up to temperature. Since my statement was wrong, I apologize, I don't want to disseminate false information.
 

EEE

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Quick update on my oil burning. After switching to Redline oil, my car doesn't burn oil till I hit 3000 miles on the oil. Then it starts up again. I recently had the valve lash adjustment done. Part of this service is to replace the spark plug tube seals that get screwed onto the valve cover gasket. Since doing this service (about 1500.... total 5000 miles on my redline oil) my car hasn't burned a drop of oil.

Does it make sense to stop burning after this service? Either way, I'm pleased with this new development. I will keep an eye on it till the next oil change. I will switch back to the mobil1 oil to see how things go. I would prefer to use something that I can get locally.
 
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Quick update on my oil burning. After switching to Redline oil, my car doesn't burn oil till I hit 3000 miles on the oil. Then it starts up again. I recently had the valve lash adjustment done. Part of this service is to replace the spark plug tube seals that get screwed onto the valve cover gasket. Since doing this service (about 1500.... total 5000 miles on my redline oil) my car hasn't burned a drop of oil.

Does it make sense to stop burning after this service? Either way, I'm pleased with this new development. I will keep an eye on it till the next oil change. I will switch back to the mobil1 oil to see how things go. I would prefer to use something that I can get locally.
You think they may have replaced you PCV valve during this service?
 

EEE

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You think they may have replaced you PCV valve during this service?

I doubt it. Its not part of the service. But I had recently (10k miles ago) replaced it myself and it had made no difference to the oil consumption. This was before giving the Redline a try.

They had wanted to change my plugs (for an additional $200) which I declined since I had replaced them myself a few thousand miles ago.
 
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I doubt it. Its not part of the service. But I had recently (10k miles ago) replaced it myself and it had made no difference to the oil consumption. This was before giving the Redline a try.

They had wanted to change my plugs (for an additional $200) which I declined since I had replaced them myself a few thousand miles ago.
Sure they wanted to change your plugs for $200. About the same on my Corolla I'll be doing it myself this spring for $30 some dollars rather than the Stealership $200. Oh and new injectors for under $40 rather than the Stealership over $140.
 

EEE

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Sure they wanted to change your plugs for $200. About the same on my Corolla I'll be doing it myself this spring for $30 some dollars rather than the Stealership $200. Oh and new injectors for under $40 rather than the Stealership over $140.
If they work on the clock, I don't see how they can charge that much for the plugs. It took me 10 min to do. The math doesn't add up.
 
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