Red Line 5W50 - 5939 Miles - 2011 M3 S65B40
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Crap you're right, I forgot! Been a while. Thank you
Also forgot to add, Rod bearings were done in the dead of winter of 2023/24. Few cold starts in negative and single digit temps. Not sure if the Aluminum and Copper numbers are concerning or not, or the Tin that OAI highlights.
Previous fill was at the dealership I bought it from, which was the factory Castrol TWS 10w60. Only had ~400 miles on it. So Titanium should be leftover from that.
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edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Proof that Redline 5W50 is what this engine needs, or any other shear stable 5W50 like HPL.
On the other hand, this poster has had arguably even better results with the BMW TPT 10W-60:
I tend to agree with you though. I will probably run this on my S54 once I change rod bearings.
Held its viscosity quite well for a wide-spread 5W-50 oil. Redline says viscosity at 100C is 21.0.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Yeah, I know that report. But looking strictly oil, he added 3qt of makeup oil. W60 is really not necessary for these engines; it is W50. But bcs. shearing, they use 10W60.On the other hand, this poster has had arguably even better results with the BMW TPT 10W-60:
I tend to agree with you though. I will probably run this on my S54 once I change rod bearings.
What is the makeup of Redline Oil in this report? In addition, it is better winter oil etc.
No makeup oil. I chose it for winter also since I daily my car in Chicago.
Surprised at the BMW 10w60 UOA above. From everything I read people said it sheared a lot, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Maybe because starting viscosity is higher? Will have to take another look at it...
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
10W60 starting viscosity will be higher. But it did shear because he added 3qt of oil.
Your Redline held much better. Part of the rod bearings issue is winter driving and cold starts. BMWs have large sumps and take some time to warm up to operating temperature. People don't have patience, and they push them cold. 5W50 is a better choice as it flows better. 10W is not a big deal in AZ, CA, etc. But in Chicago, it might be.
IMO, if this was my car, I would stick to that RL 5W50. This is an excellent OIL REPORT! UOA is the first and foremost oil report. It might show issues with the engine if you follow trends, but it is designed to see how oil performs. And to stay basically at 19cst, which is mid-W50, is excellent. W60 starts at 22cst. But in another report, even with 3qt, he is around your KV100. 10W60 was used because it shears very fast into W50, and if the engine does not use oil, in 10k OCI (let's say you follow the BMW recommendation), it will probably shear into thick W40.
So, did you pay for two tests on the same used oil?
If so, thanks for that! Helps us understand the variance and variables for each lab.
Too bad you didn't get the GC analysis but hey, the oil is in spec so no worries about fuel contamination.
Great choice on Redline 5w50.
I would get another sample next OCI to see about tin.
I am going to try both in my Z4M. I am running TPT 10W-60 now which seems to have a nicer package than the Castrol, but I will run both after rod bearings are done in February. Also considering Ravenol RSS 6.4 HTHS
with similar KV as Castrol.My second to last analysis (10W-60) they also did estimate for me for fuel. It’s not clear why, they didn’t ask. The next sample was GC.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Other option is HPL 10W50.I am going to try both in my Z4M. I am running TPT 10W-60 now which seems to have a nicer package than the Castrol, but I will run both after rod bearings are done in February. Also considering Ravenol RSS 6.4 HTHS
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Nice result! Thanks for sharing. Redline is the real deal. Look at that slug of moly!
Yes indeed I did pay for two UOA's of the same sample! You know, for science
Yes as another poster mentioned, I thought GC was included. I think it was on the last test I had done with them for a different oil/car. I'll call them tomorrow and see if they can add that, or why it's missing.
Happy to hear the comments about the oil choice. I think I'll be sticking with it (plus I have a qt leftover that I gotta use). Would've loved to try HPL, even though their 3 tiers of 5W50 confuse me, but I want to see how the RL trends. Especially for the tin/aluminum which was hopefully coming from the original updated 702/703 bearings that were changed out. Copper could be from the new BE's which are lead-copper.
You shouldn't be seeing copper from the new rod bearings at this point unless there is a problem, so I would just monitor it.Yes indeed I did pay for two UOA's of the same sample! You know, for science
Yes as another poster mentioned, I thought GC was included. I think it was on the last test I had done with them for a different oil/car. I'll call them tomorrow and see if they can add that, or why it's missing.
Happy to hear the comments about the oil choice. I think I'll be sticking with it (plus I have a qt leftover that I gotta use). Would've loved to try HPL, even though their 3 tiers of 5W50 confuse me, but I want to see how the RL trends. Especially for the tin/aluminum which was hopefully coming from the original updated 702/703 bearings that were changed out. Copper could be from the new BE's which are lead-copper.
BE actually does not seem to know what their own bearing overlay is made of. They claim BE V2 bearings are silver oxide coated but that doesn't seem to be something that Clevite offers (King does though). They say they are made of the Mahle F material which actually does have documentation and is a lead-tin-indium-alumina electroplated overlay on a cast bronze lead substrate. So, there is no copper in the overlay either way I think. If you see significant copper, the source is not the rod bearings or else you have worn through the overlay already which is a major red flag. I don't want to cause any alarm with only 7 ppm of copper, but the main bearings in these engines always worry me.
Yes that seems to be the new hot topic with these cars, the main bearings. I guess they're getting just old enough now where that's coming into play. I certainly hope not, but the amount of money I and others spend modding these, I can't say a new engine is exorbitantly expensive in comparison?
Anyway, will enjoy and monitor and see how things look. Thanks everyone for their insights, certainly helped put my mind at ease (mostly).
