Red Armor vs Walmart 2 cycle oil- or other alternative

Is Red Armor better than other oil? Not sure, but I know that every machine I've come across that has been running it looked extremely clean inside. Can't say the same for those running the silver bottle Stihl oil, or the no-name stuff from TSC. Equipment is expensive, piston and cylinder kits and labor are expensive. I'll keep running Red Armor, Amsoil, or Opti-2. Even with running an equipment repair side business, I don't go through that much of it.

I would also only run the VP racing or Echo canned fuel. With that said I haven't tried the Stihl or Husqvarna fuel, so can't comment on that and I don't know who makes it for them. I never had starting issues like in those videos when using Trufuel, but I did have several instances where my equipment wouldn't rev to full throttle.
 
VP racing is supposed to be pretty good.
Only thing I don't like about it is VP makes the exhaust smell a little bit like burnt plastic, were redarmor does not.
 
Sounds more like your OPE than the fuel.

Years ago, after making the switch, my concrete saw at the time, ran like crap. This was after using pump gas with oil. It ran rough, real rough, but then smoothed back out maybe one tank later.

I asked a local small engine mechanic about this, and he told me it was common. He theorized that the Trufuel was cleaning the system, and that is why the issue was common.

So, if your opinion is that Trufuel sucks, fine, but it might not be the fuel, it might be the reaction of your equipment from having nasty old fuel varnish being cleaned off by the superior Trufuel.

Since using Trufuel, 12 years ago, and 1000s of hours on construction equipment like concrete saws, gas powered pumps, and generators. I have had no fuel related issues at all, not 1.

Did not really keep track of my house OPE, but 2 trimmers, two chainsaws, and two Honda Carbed 4 wheelers, all start up 100% of the time with ease.

Most recently, I used my Husqvarna 14 inch chainsaw, which has sat on the shelf for two years unstarted. And it fired right up.
Trufuel is trash.
I'm down about 1,000rpm when using trufuel compared to mixing my own pump gas and redarmor at 40:1.
If I get trufuel for some reason I dump it in my riding lawnmower or dodge Dakota.
To me trufuel is for people who aren't smart enough to mix their own gas.
 
Score!
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Normal price is $9.48, but rung up at $4.98. Guess that was clearance price. Had to really look as the Christmas decorations have overtaken all of the lawn and garden stuff at the local Wally. It was tucked away on an endcap with some other fuel stuff, including the Ethanol Shield I got for $1.98 a bottle. I'm good for a while now.
 
Not to get too far off the topic, but with engineered fuels (canned pre-mix) I have had varying degrees of success with it running smooth in my machines when it first hit the market. Most of the difference seems to come down to age of product. Have used some Trufuel that worked great, and some that did not. The fuels that didn't were usually from Big Orange or Big Blue box stores where they show like 5000 cans in stock so you know some of that had to be sitting around for a while. Always had good results from VP, but finally gave up on all canned fuel as it is too expensive. Now, I use Red Armor or VP oil @~40-45:1 in 93 octane E0 (finally found a reliable source near me) with Ethanol Shield added for water absorption, oxidation reduction, corrosion inhibitors, and metal deactivators.
I will say that although I avoid Trufuel, I don't think it is all bad. I believe their problem is with poor quality control, and some batches just aren't great. Unfortunately that also makes me question other quality issues they might have.

FWIW, canned fuel is the only real way to get E0 fuel in my area. I don't use it in the machines I use a lot, but stuff that is only used occasionally I try to drain out before storage or leave canned fuel in it.
 
When I lived in California, I went to Truefuel and it made a huge positive difference in all of my 2 stroke equipment. What Chicanik is missing is that the different refining process used results in a slightly lower btu fuel with the resulting power loss. QC on the stuff is concerning though. Ive had great results with VP also. Far superior to the pump gas available. Now that I live in a free state with ethanol free available I use that. I am starting to see ethanol related carb issues here coming through the shop but they are different from the total destruction found in California fueled machines and even though we have ethanol, the fuel doesn't go rancid as fast as CA. Use a reputable oil with the correct ratings and enjoy.
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This is what I usually see here.
 
I have been using the original orange bottle Stihl oil for decades without issue. I read the raves about Red Armor so I tried it and I like it and this may sound silly but my sons use my stuff sometimes and the red color makes it easy to tell that it is two stroke gas and we avoided a potential mixup because of the red dye.

Also, when fueling up with E0 fuel, the pumps around here have a single shared hose so I put the first gallon in my truck and then meter out what I need for my dedicated two stroke can.
 
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Going to say the unpopular opinion (with evidence of the last 25+ years) that it doesn’t matter in saws specifically. Everyone hates Stihl oil but my dad and I have both used it for over 25 years now with no issues. Saws still run strong (some of the saws have been in service the same timeframe). I’ve ran other brands for short stints but ultimately go back to Stihl because my dad has a large stock of it to use up.
I use Stihl in the Stihl - but since buying a number of 120V and cordless electric saws - not using the gasser as much - no big deal to dump the can gas in the LT and get a fresh can for a specific job …
 
I just got a Shindaiwa 600SX chainsaw (same as Echo CS-620P) and also purchased a 6-pack (2.6 oz) Shindaiwa branded Red Armor oil. I was not aware of the JASO FD and ISO-L-EGD specs previously. However, running 50/1 EtOH free gas mix in the new saw. In my other Echo equipment (CS-345 saw and PB-230LN blower, both from 2002) I have been using Valvoline 2 stroke oil with EtOH free gas for several years and have not encountered any issues. Once the existing Valvoline stock is depleted, will start using JASO FD/ ISO-L-EGD oil mix exclusively in 2-stroke equipment.

Anyone using the Pennzoil Snowmobile 2 stroke oil? When I run out of my Red Armor, I will procure a quart. It meets the required specs.
 
I just got a Shindaiwa 600SX chainsaw (same as Echo CS-620P) and also purchased a 6-pack (2.6 oz) Shindaiwa branded Red Armor oil. I was not aware of the JASO FD and ISO-L-EGD specs previously. However, running 50/1 EtOH free gas mix in the new saw. In my other Echo equipment (CS-345 saw and PB-230LN blower, both from 2002) I have been using Valvoline 2 stroke oil with EtOH free gas for several years and have not encountered any issues. Once the existing Valvoline stock is depleted, will start using JASO FD/ ISO-L-EGD oil mix exclusively in 2-stroke equipment.

Anyone using the Pennzoil Snowmobile 2 stroke oil? When I run out of my Red Armor, I will procure a quart. It meets the required specs.
Technically the Pennzoil says “suitable for use”, not “meets or exceeds”. I’m sure it would be absolutely fine, but I’m not sure where it would leave you as far as warranty goes if you were to encounter a problem.
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Funny that he asks the www for opinion on the Penzzoil....but has already determined to buy it ;>/
 
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