Recommended oil

[L_Tedder]

Hi,
I own a 2005 Mitsubishi lancer evolution. I have been running redline 5w30 for quite some time now. I am in the process of buying a bigger turbo. This particular turbo is journal bearing, and instead of using a brass or bronze bearing, they have used steel. So, the turbo has a steel bearing along with a steel shaft. This company composed a PDF in 2008 that includes recommended oils for use in their turbo. These oils include:
Valvoline VR1
Brad Penn 10w30
Amsoil dominator
Mobile 1 0w30 racing
Joe Gibbs xp7

I am somewhat partial to redline and I would rather not switch, I was just wondering if any of you guys saw any reason to be concerned.

Thanks for your time.

Logan

 

[A_Harman]

Redline is definitely better than Valvoline VR1 and Brad Penn 10w30.
I wouldn't worry.
I'd be more worried about running a steel shaft on a steel bearing. Why do they do that? Do they coat or case-harden the bearing?

 

[tudorart]

I think it's the perfect application for RL street oil but to match the competition you mentioned and over do it you can also do this (assuming you don have a cat converter):

RL race oil that you should change out every 3 months.
As an alternative for more detergents you can use their street version and add the ZDDP break in additive or straight up their motorcycle oil.

All of the above come in 10W30, just or just under 3.5cP HTHS and no viscosity improvers and should release the most beast.

 

[L_Tedder]

I don't really understand why they did it. I see no logical explanation. I know they only build ball bearing turbos now, if you send one of their journal bearing turbos in for repair, they will convert it over to a ball bearing. A friend of mine is practically giving me this turbo, so it's not a huge deal, I'm just trying to better understand!

 

[L_Tedder]

I did not realize rl had race oils and street oils.. I only drive the car at autocross Events (1-2monthly) and track days (1-2 per year)... I usually change the oil every 2-3k anyways

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: tudorart
As an alternative for more detergents you can use their street version and add the ZDDP break in additive.



That's an interesting idea. I've never thought of beefing up their street oil with their zddp additive. Their street oil has ~1200 ppm of Phosphorous, which is more than enough for my roller lifter moderate performance engines. Their race oils, such as 30WT, have 2200 ppm of Phosphorous. I wouldn't fortify their street oils to get over ~1400 ppm of Phos.

 

[L_Tedder]

So what I am gathering is that The 5w30 is plenty good for my application, but if I wanted I could dump 4oz of the rl break in additive to bump up the aw agents?

 

[A_Harman]

Yes.
Another thing: Is the turbo used? You said you were getting it from a friend for a good price.

 

[L_Tedder]

3k on the turbo. He ran brad penn 20w50, which is an oil the Turbo company recommends

 

[threeputtpar]

Since you are getting the turbo second hand, it probably doesn't have a warranty to worry about. Use whatever RL oil you have/want to buy and beat it like a rented mule!

RL's 0W-40 and 5W-40 are very stout oils, and I'd suggest one of them in the order I listed them.

 

[L_Tedder]

The car calls for 10/30. That is why I was sticking with the 30 weight range. Is their really a substantial difference in additives between the 5w30 and 0w40?

 

[Clevy]

Op.
Redline is fine so don't switch.
And don't add anything to it. Redline oils are already overkill with their additive package and it's balanced,so adding zddp to it will throw it out of balance and considering zddp is corrosive you need to add something to equalize.
Just leave it alone. Your fine with it just the way it is.