Recommendation for diff & trans fluid & some questions

[SteveD2]

My car is 92 Eclipse, Manual, 190K.

In my owner manaul

For transmission it says

GL-4 or Higher (SAE 75-90 or 75-85)

For transfer = same as above

For diff

GL-5 or Higher
Above -10F SAE90, 85-90,80-90
From -30F to -10F 80, 80-90
Below -30F 75

The thing is I would like to just buy 1 type of oil (so it is less confusing to me).

1. What should I use?

I just put in Auto-Rx in the transmission. So, I will be done after 800 miles.

2. I saw a lot of people recommend Redline MT-90. But, since it is only GL-4, can I use that in my diff where GL-5 is specified. If not, what type (brand) of oil should I use?

3. With this many high miles, should I switch it to synthetic at all? Will I get leak?

4. I'm planning to change clutch in 2K-5K miles depending on if I can find reasonable mechanic. Will the good stuffs (transmission oil) I put in now be eventually flushed during clutch & slave cylinder repair?

I appreciate all your recommendation and will follow through it since most of you here knows a lot about car than I do.

I can do simple filter/spark plugs/alternator/starter/oil change, etc. Heck, I don't even know what GL means.

Other than that I just drive and live on the road.

 

[Mike242GT]

Larry:

I would think that Mobil 1 synthetic gear lubricant would be OK in both your transmission and diff. It's a GL-5 75W-90. If you don't want to go synthetic, Castrol Hypoy C gear oil, which is a GL-5 80W-90, has worked well for me in the past. Both of these are easy to find, as opposed to the Redline, although the Castrol might be a bit thick for your transmission app.

WRT your clutch issue, I think if it were my car, I'd have the clutch slave replaced (probably less than $100 for the part), flush the hydraulic system with clean fluid (my hydraulic clutch uses the same main reservoir as the braking system; I like Valvoline Syn Power), and adjust the clutch at the slave to ensure proper engagement. You might be able to go quite a bit further without spending the $$$ for a new clutch.

Unless your car is set up radically different from mine, there should be no need to drain the transmission when doing the clutch R&R.

 

[SteveD2]

Thank you Mike.

I think I will try the Mobil Syn.

For clutch, I think 2 shops I talked to, wanted me to save labor and thus recommended me for slave+clutch+everything in one shot.

My previous owner used a shop in Springfield Missouri (about 100 miles from me). The receipt shows everything for around $450 (after tax) back in 1998. I would call them this Monday and see if they can give me a reasonable price. Then, I would do the whole thing.

My clutch doesn't slip. But, the transmission/clutch was a tiny little bit hard to shift for the first 30 minutes in the morning (some hesitation on occasion putting into gear, not a whole lot), so, I was thinking about doing clutch+slave. I plan to keep the car till around 300K.

Of course, if the car shift better after fluid change (I think my transmission fluid was still OEM), then it will save me some $$$ for a decent car stereo.

Appreciate it, Mike.

[ February 21, 2004, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: Larry Oo ]

 

[Pantdino]

I don't know your car type at all, but from your description I doubt your clutch is in need of replacement. It's more likely your slave or master clutch cylinder is bad and not fully disengaging the clutch. (Actually it's more likely the master because a bad slave usually leaks externally. A bad master can leak internally as fluid leaks past the seal on the piston back into the reservoir side, so no fluid is seen on the outside.)

That's a bad thing because it's VERY hard on your synchros--in other words, it can ruin your gearbox--so get it fixed ASAP. And I personally wouldn't spring for a new clutch unless there's something unique about your car and the mechanic can explain convincingly why it needs it. A bad clutch slips.

 

[SteveD2]

Pantdino,

I switched my OEM gearbox fluid with 50/50 mix of Redline MT90 & MTL. The transmission doesn't grind at all now when warm.

When cold it still grinds a little. But, it is softer and also not much metal noise anymore. So, I think the whole thing is ok.

By the way, when you are talking about clutch master being bad, is there any other signs? I'm assuming if clutch master is leaking, I can probably see the clutch fluid getting low? Well, I haven't seen that. So, may be it's good? (Ok. I just reread your explanation. You are saying clutch fluid level in the reservoir stays the same?).

As far as the cost of changing clutch, I think, since they have the whole tyranny down, I might as well do all of them. My clutch was last changed at 150K ago. So, doesn't matter how good I drive, it must be getting worn. It slips just a little now.

I got quote from my mechanic for around $800 for the whole thing. About $250 for clutch kit. Then resurfacing for flywheel for about $90. Then about $385 for labor + taxes. Warranty is 12 months/ 12000 miles.

They are pretty good with warranty. Yesterday they did my water pump again (under warranty) after I took the car in for some noise. They changed Tbelt + pump 6 months / 8K miles ago. The bearing failed on it. They probably could have even told me something else and charge me all over again. But, they're good. So, all free.

I plan to do the whole thing as soon as I got some work taken care of (may be 3-5 weeks) and save up some $$$.

Might as well. My car is running so good and quiet after Auto-Rx. I'm only half done. Book value on my car is about $500. Still, a good car is a good car.

 

[ikarus1]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Larry Oo:


As far as the cost of changing clutch, I think, since they have the whole tyranny down, I might as well do all of them. My clutch was last changed at 150K ago. So, doesn't matter how good I drive, it must be getting worn. It slips just a little now.

I got quote from my mechanic for around $800 for the whole thing. About $250 for clutch kit. Then resurfacing for flywheel for about $90. Then about $385 for labor + taxes. Warranty is 12 months/ 12000 miles.

They are pretty good with warranty. Yesterday they did my water pump again (under warranty) after I took the car in for some noise. They changed Tbelt + pump 6 months / 8K miles ago. The bearing failed on it. They probably could have even told me something else and charge me all over again. But, they're good. So, all free.

I plan to do the whole thing as soon as I got some work taken care of (may be 3-5 weeks) and save up some $$$.

Might as well. My car is running so good and quiet after Auto-Rx. I'm only half done. Book value on my car is about $500. Still, a good car is a good car.

---

Ouch... cost me $50 for a new clutch on ebay, $75 for a new slave cyl,trans fluid, and some misc parts, $20 for two tools that I will re-use at some point and about 6 hours of my own labor due to never having changed a Mazda B2300 clutch before....

I guess I came out good huh?