I got anthracite coal probably mined in Ohio or Pennsylvania from tractor supply years ago when they accidentally sent a pallet out here I save it for the really cold nights. Usually I burn wood, wood chips, wood chips with motor oil, trash and Petro logs which are logs that soaked for days or months in used motor oil.
Higher load is what will generate more heat, cruising on the highway isn't really a great way to raise oil temps as you have plenty of airflow and low overall engine load. It's a very gradual rise that hits equilibrium.
The tank I made was intended for drying waste vegetable oil it was a larger improved version of my original vacuum dryer but I never got to use the new one.
I don't have much of a way to increase load as it's just a little hybrid car and my wife won't let me put a trailer hitch on it.
Yep, I played around with this in my Outback with an oil temp read out and it quite surprising how much cruising around at 3000 rpm increased oil temps vs 1800 rpm at highway speeds. Rose from ~200f to ~220f in a couple minutes IIRC. I'm not sure how easy this is on a hybrid but if you can, just keep it near 3k in town if you drive it.
Acceleration, slowing down, then reaccelerating would pump those numbers up.
10w-30 is boarder line for me, as it does get that cold here in the winter.
Extra additives, less VII which I don't see how they'd do that or VII that are more shear resistant which are more expensive, probably sitting on the upper viscosity edge of what is a "20 weight oil".
Sounds like they’re being conservative, I’m not familiar with a hybrid that recommends a 15k oil change interval. Hybrid or none 15k is a stretch for any oil change interval
At 0F synthetic 10w30 your not anywhere near pump ability, add some gas to the oil and it’s even more pump able
Only the viscosity would have anything to do with fuel dilution.
Hyundai recommends 7,500 mi but to get that you're fighting fuel dilution. So you better be in a hot climate or do a fair bit of highway driving. Otherwise you're on the server oci of three thousand some odd miles.
Sure they can. Good VM and a good base stock (requiring less VII) can certainly do that. But fuel dilution is mixing a low-viscosity fluid into one with a higher viscosity. None will resist that any better than another in the short term. Good VM can resist permanent and temporary VM breakdown as well.
The best oil for staying in grade that's intended for use in an ICE will be straight 30 weight, straight 40 weight, ect.
A no-VM oil will not shear but it won’t be better at lowering viscosity due to fuel.
Yeah i figured say 7% fuel dilution will effect the viscosity of say 10w-30 an straight 30 the same.
Being a synthetic is irrelevant, it’s an oil with a 10W winter rating. How do you know it’s “anywhere near” the limit?
