Say, if you had water contamination in oil (from high alcohol fuels) wouldn't AM sample test OK (water separated out) vs the PM sample (with water suspended in oil)?
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Received my Oilyzer
- Thread starter Cup of Joe
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I did some more testing:
corolla 400 miles city only Pennzoil 10W30 #1# on hot engine after driving (tested #3 yesterday).
corolla 5000 miles city mostly 2009 summer Pennzoil 10W30 #6#
corolla 30000 miles T-IV ATF #4#
RAV4 30000 miles WS ATF #4#
I suspect the ATF numbers are meaningless, but I'm going through my used oil samples.
One thing I noticed is testing used oil from a container gives precise numbers, but testing oil from a dipstick gives a lot of variability.
corolla 400 miles city only Pennzoil 10W30 #1# on hot engine after driving (tested #3 yesterday).
corolla 5000 miles city mostly 2009 summer Pennzoil 10W30 #6#
corolla 30000 miles T-IV ATF #4#
RAV4 30000 miles WS ATF #4#
I suspect the ATF numbers are meaningless, but I'm going through my used oil samples.
One thing I noticed is testing used oil from a container gives precise numbers, but testing oil from a dipstick gives a lot of variability.
Cup of Joe
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Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Say, if you had water contamination in oil (from high alcohol fuels) wouldn't AM sample test OK (water separated out) vs the PM sample (with water suspended in oil)?
I have never used higher then 10% ethanol intentionally. From my personal experience water will not completely seperate from engine oil overnight. If you where speaking about my UOA specificly my M-F commute is 50 miles each way. More then enough time to evap any water and I would think fuel.
Say, if you had water contamination in oil (from high alcohol fuels) wouldn't AM sample test OK (water separated out) vs the PM sample (with water suspended in oil)?
I have never used higher then 10% ethanol intentionally. From my personal experience water will not completely seperate from engine oil overnight. If you where speaking about my UOA specificly my M-F commute is 50 miles each way. More then enough time to evap any water and I would think fuel.
Cup of Joe
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Per oilyzerman a range of #1-#3 is acceptable.
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Per oilyzerman a range of #1-#3 is acceptable.
You are right. I tested some more fresh oils and while LDEO reads #1 (I tried regular and synthetic samples, gr 2, 3, and 4), HDEO reads #3 (I tried Delo and marine 15W40). I guess Oilyzer senses more ash additives?
BTW, Oilyzer doesn't work on synthetic ATF and gear oils, they all tested #10 (mobil 1 and redline). I have no idea why.
Regular ATF and gear oils gave various readings between 1 and 5 (not always repeatable).
It would be nice if oilyzerman chimed in with some comments on ATF.
Per oilyzerman a range of #1-#3 is acceptable.
You are right. I tested some more fresh oils and while LDEO reads #1 (I tried regular and synthetic samples, gr 2, 3, and 4), HDEO reads #3 (I tried Delo and marine 15W40). I guess Oilyzer senses more ash additives?
BTW, Oilyzer doesn't work on synthetic ATF and gear oils, they all tested #10 (mobil 1 and redline). I have no idea why.
Regular ATF and gear oils gave various readings between 1 and 5 (not always repeatable).
It would be nice if oilyzerman chimed in with some comments on ATF.
Cup of Joe
Thread starter
Why are you testing ATF, gear oil and Diesel? It states only for gasoline engine oil.
I am using a sample of synlube as 1 of my controls. The VOA showed .8% soot from the PTFE and graphite. The oilyzer has always read that sample as I would except.
I am using a sample of synlube as 1 of my controls. The VOA showed .8% soot from the PTFE and graphite. The oilyzer has always read that sample as I would except.
In the end Tater&Noodles, do you think the Oilyzer is worth the money and a serious tool or just a gimmic? Hope I'm not asking you to stick your neck out to far.
Cup of Joe
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Its still to early to say. I have to work out whether I have a fuel issue in my DD and continue testing on other cars. Without a follow up UOA how can I really judge if the Oilyzer is accurate, some what accurate or complete [censored].
I still need to find time to pull my VW out and heat the oil up for a drain and UOA after taking some Oilyzer readings. My F150 is acquiring allot of hours not mileage so it maybe ready before to long as well. My wife has been driving it twice a day to transport food etc to care for her horse until I finish the fencing for it.
Cars that can still be tested the F150 and Grand caravan have Pennzoil HM 5w30 that was installed in Oct, the VW has Pennzoil 10w30 that has been in service for 2 years. The wifes Mazda has Amsoil XL with a couple thousand miles on it.
I still need to find time to pull my VW out and heat the oil up for a drain and UOA after taking some Oilyzer readings. My F150 is acquiring allot of hours not mileage so it maybe ready before to long as well. My wife has been driving it twice a day to transport food etc to care for her horse until I finish the fencing for it.
Cars that can still be tested the F150 and Grand caravan have Pennzoil HM 5w30 that was installed in Oct, the VW has Pennzoil 10w30 that has been in service for 2 years. The wifes Mazda has Amsoil XL with a couple thousand miles on it.
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Why are you testing ATF, gear oil and Diesel? It states only for gasoline engine oil.
Why not? It's my toy and I'm allowed to play.
Why are you testing ATF, gear oil and Diesel? It states only for gasoline engine oil.
Why not? It's my toy and I'm allowed to play.
OK, was just wondering. We'll just have to wait a little longer, no problem.
jcwit,
Based on my experience so far, it works (with some limitations).
I have been changing oil in my corolla every 6 months and 5000 miles (I happen to drive 10000 miles a year), just like Toyota recently requires, using quality dino or blend oils. I happened to save a few used oil samples and they all tested #6 of 10, showing that there was still some life left. This is in agreement with card blot tests and previous UOAs I did. Changing oil on #7 or even #8 (green turning on yellow) would be probably optimal in this application.
Now, limitations. Like the OP experienced, fuel dilution or unusual oil formulations confuse oilyzer. HDEO, oil additives, and MMO read all over the scale. Even Maxlife synthetic starts at #3.
I had a few weird, unexplained readings (probably contamination in the sensor). Now, I test a least twice and accept result if there is an agreement. Cleaning between tests is a must.
Bottom line. If you use a typical oil and there is no fuel dilution, this gismo works.
Based on my experience so far, it works (with some limitations).
I have been changing oil in my corolla every 6 months and 5000 miles (I happen to drive 10000 miles a year), just like Toyota recently requires, using quality dino or blend oils. I happened to save a few used oil samples and they all tested #6 of 10, showing that there was still some life left. This is in agreement with card blot tests and previous UOAs I did. Changing oil on #7 or even #8 (green turning on yellow) would be probably optimal in this application.
Now, limitations. Like the OP experienced, fuel dilution or unusual oil formulations confuse oilyzer. HDEO, oil additives, and MMO read all over the scale. Even Maxlife synthetic starts at #3.
I had a few weird, unexplained readings (probably contamination in the sensor). Now, I test a least twice and accept result if there is an agreement. Cleaning between tests is a must.
Bottom line. If you use a typical oil and there is no fuel dilution, this gismo works.
Thanks for the reply and review of the Oilzer. Guess I'll order one and try it out.
I finished testing with oilyzer all the used and fresh oil samples I accumulated in my garage and I have a lot, as expected from a long time BITOG geek.
After that experience I would say one has to test each sample at least 3 times, as on average 1/3 measurements is off (and usually a lot). It is usually the first (but not always) that is off. And I clean the sensor each time. I emailed oilyzer with question if this is normal or a defect in my unit.
One big surprise: I found one engine oil that cannot be tested by oilyzer: Q torque power synthetic 10W30. The results are variable and range from #4-#10 (fresh oil). There must be some special additive in it. No other engine oil does it, but gear oils and synthetic ATFs also do the same thing.
If Schaeffers oil is the same way, it would explain why OP’s results are all over the board.
After that experience I would say one has to test each sample at least 3 times, as on average 1/3 measurements is off (and usually a lot). It is usually the first (but not always) that is off. And I clean the sensor each time. I emailed oilyzer with question if this is normal or a defect in my unit.
One big surprise: I found one engine oil that cannot be tested by oilyzer: Q torque power synthetic 10W30. The results are variable and range from #4-#10 (fresh oil). There must be some special additive in it. No other engine oil does it, but gear oils and synthetic ATFs also do the same thing.
If Schaeffers oil is the same way, it would explain why OP’s results are all over the board.
I found a paper (somewhat old) on dielectric constant of lubricating oils:
http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA347479
The paper explains why oils with more ZDDP additive or more esters test higher on Oilyzer. That also explains the temperature dependence and why measurements should be taken before driving and not after (thermal hysteresis).
So, is Q torque power synthetic oil ester based?
While there are more questions than answers at this point, the results from the Oilyzer are intriguing.
http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA347479
The paper explains why oils with more ZDDP additive or more esters test higher on Oilyzer. That also explains the temperature dependence and why measurements should be taken before driving and not after (thermal hysteresis).
So, is Q torque power synthetic oil ester based?
While there are more questions than answers at this point, the results from the Oilyzer are intriguing.
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Yes I purchased it for the "cause" since it was getting hammered and no one had ever even seen one. Did you miss the part where I purchased a quart of synlube $32+5 for handling and then overnighted $$$ a sample yesterday?
I am going to sample behind the Oilyzer for comparison and to judge how effective the unit will be. The technology is sound and has been used in the field for at least 10 years now just at a much higher cost. I can already see that the user will be the most critical aspect of how effective the unit will be. I have found it definately needs to be thoroughly cleaned and allowed to dry before the next sample is taken.
Thanks for your efforts.
Yes I purchased it for the "cause" since it was getting hammered and no one had ever even seen one. Did you miss the part where I purchased a quart of synlube $32+5 for handling and then overnighted $$$ a sample yesterday?
I am going to sample behind the Oilyzer for comparison and to judge how effective the unit will be. The technology is sound and has been used in the field for at least 10 years now just at a much higher cost. I can already see that the user will be the most critical aspect of how effective the unit will be. I have found it definately needs to be thoroughly cleaned and allowed to dry before the next sample is taken.
Thanks for your efforts.
One note: make sure the oil sample is at room temperature when you test it or it will screw up the results.
I found that the bottle cap of your favorite beverage is an excellent way to get a sample and set it to the side to cool while you finish the oil change.
I found that the bottle cap of your favorite beverage is an excellent way to get a sample and set it to the side to cool while you finish the oil change.
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