Reasons you Prefer 10W30 Synthetic Oil ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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I use it in my 1997 Ram 1500 5.9 gas engine. It is what is preferred by the owners manual. Doesn't go below 0F where I live and it has a cast iron block and head, so thermal expansion and contractions are minimal. Also burns through less 10w30 than 5w30.
A 10w30 doesn't have to meet as cold of a temperature for pumpability. Therefore, it can be formulated with a higher initial base oil viscosity. This means less viscosity index improver (VII) polymer, making the oil more shear stable. It also means a better high temp, high shear (HTHS) dynamic viscosity relative to kinematic viscosity @ 100°C (KV100) and a better high temp, full shear (HTFS) rating. The Noack volatility will usually be lower as well.
I start thinking about a 5W-xx when the starting temperature gets below 10°F and a 0W-xx when it gets below -5°F, though a 10W-xx is rated as good to -14°F (-25°C) per SAE J300. Per cold cranking simulation (CCS) results for each grade...
0W-xx = 5W-xx = 10W-xx = 15W-xx = 20W-xx =
Pick the first number based on your climate. You don't want a 10w30 in -20°F weather. However, if it is warm enough where you live to run a 10w30, it can be beneficial for the reasons I mentioned above.
I start thinking about a 5W-xx when the starting temperature gets below 10°F and a 0W-xx when it gets below -5°F, though a 10W-xx is rated as good to -14°F (-25°C) per SAE J300. Per cold cranking simulation (CCS) results for each grade...
0W-xx = 5W-xx = 10W-xx = 15W-xx = 20W-xx =
Pick the first number based on your climate. You don't want a 10w30 in -20°F weather. However, if it is warm enough where you live to run a 10w30, it can be beneficial for the reasons I mentioned above.
10w-30 is definitely on its way out the door, but we've been saying that for 10+ years now. Some vehicles as late as the early 2000's still spec'd 10w30 (Chrysler 3.5l for example), so once these are all fully off the road I suspect demand to drop.
10w-30 is still a great oil for OPE, farm equipment, boats, etc. so it'll never truly go away.
10w-30 is still a great oil for OPE, farm equipment, boats, etc. so it'll never truly go away.
*For a modern vehicle that doesn't routinely see temps below 20 degrees F. such as in the South , Pacific NW , etc.) 10W30 is an option - however at what point does the formulation fall behind in areas such as timing chain protection found in newer 5W30 oils (i.e. D1/G3) ?
My 1988 Ford Escort specs 10w30 as the default oil grade, i'd use 10w30 but here in Spain it is pretty much non-existent except for a few motorcycle oils.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The problem is that usually, with the majors, they just reduce the base oil quality instead; make the product cheaper to formulate. Mobil is quite upfront about you being able to blend a 10w30 with no group III using just their EHC Group II/II+ products, along with a 5w30 (but you can't do dexos).
Example:
85% of the base oil blend is 5cSt EHC Group II+. Drop the HTHS to PCMO levels and you'd use less of the 120 I suspect.
I THINK I have some Yubase examples too, but with the lack of popularity of 10w30 and it being excluded from dexos, I suspect with the majors that it's kind of the opposite approach to the 0W-40's where they have to use better bases to keep the Noack down and meet the performance specs. They can get away with making the 10w30 pretty cheaply because it is basically obsolete for PCMO applications.
I used to run 5w30 in my older vehicles <2000's and they had a noisy cold start for the first seconds, with running 10w30 they were silent at startup now. Some of the noise was a brief piston slap in my GMs other was just a noisy valvetrain but all responded well.
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I ran it
My Grandma's push mower explicitly calls for 10w30 & to my surprise my brothers hypertough push mower calls for 10w30, I was surprised by the hypertough because of the Briggs & Stratton engine on it, most of the Briggs & Stratton mowers I've worked on call for 30w, I did an oil change on a Honda self propelled mower a couple of days ago that called for 10w30 as well, I used VP small engine oil SAE30/10w30 in all three, great results on all.
My 2012 Hyundai accent allowed it as one of the weights of oil I could use and the 1.6 l engine. It was all privy to the temperature. I settled on 5w30 Pennzoil synthetic for all year
The only reason I can think of for using 5W or10W is that's what I have a surplus of in left over topoff oil. Oh that and for those cold winter starts when you decide to mow the snow!
I used RGT 5w30 and Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30 back to back. The one thing I did notice is the startup noise on this engines, specifically what I believe is noise from the bucket lifters, are much quieter. Did UOA on the RGT everything looked good though. I wouldn't hesistate to use 10w30 in a pinch, got a deal on sale with rebate last year.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yeah, most of my OPE does too, I just run Mobil 1 0W-40 in all of it.
Yep, me too.
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The price.
Boy I hope you grabbed a few of those.
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