Reasonable advice for HIGH mileage engines...

[grndslm]

I'm somehow attracted to cars that have anywhere from 150k to 300k miles.

Typically, 10w-30 is my cup of tea. I used to use Valvoline only, even Synpower only... but I have noticed that synthetic does seem to clean the dirt deposits around gaskets out fairly quickly.

Now, I'm after saving $$$, finding solutions to keep the oil inside my engine, and definitely not increasing wear to the motor. So... I'm wondering if 10w-30 dino is all that's needed for me. I'd say so, but I'm really looking for "simple advice that you'd tell your kids on your death bed", such as: (1) you want less VIIs, (2) it's all about the base stock, (3) it's all about PAO oil, (4) stick to dino only, (5) 5w-30 synthetic is thicker than all Xw-30 dinos, (6) if you are able to use synthetic without leaks, change filters at 3-5k miles & top off oil, then do complete oil change at 6-10k miles, (7) a quick fix for an engine which originally calls for 10w-30 starts leaking would be to add 10w-40 / 15w-40 / lucas / bars leaks [product # here]...

.... ETCETERA!!!

Where's the reasonable advice??

I'll admit that I don't truly understand how to find a good base stock, I don't TRULY understand how VIIs work, and I definitely don't know what PAO oil is, but I'd like to learn how to keep cheap cars running cheaply without overhauls and expensive work that is more than the cost of the vehicle.

Whole reason I've decided to finally register today is that my buddy's Suburban is leaking a good bit from the rear main seal. The bars leaks rear main seal stop leak has helped a bit, but I don't think it's completely stopped.

I also checked my Volvo when I heard the bearings were sounding a little DRY today, and a fresh quart I added just put it on the tip of the dipstick!! Last time I took it to Sears to do an oil change, and they said 5w-30 was all they offered in bulk. OK then... it leaked a bit, but I never let it get below the dipstick until recently. It's been a couple months since I last checked it, and I've been running it pretty hard for the past month or two, but at least I put that fresh quart of NexGen oil I got for free a while back (stopped the dry bearing sound within a few hundred feet, at least!), just to get me to another shop

to change my oil @ a Goodyear shop for $24 after tax because I had a coupon. I can't beat that price, but I'd at least have put in 10w-30 if I had done it myself.. which is what I wanted. They, too, only stock 5w-30. I think it's a conspiracy that shops only stock bulk oil in 5w-30 nowadays... but whatever. I watch the Goodyear LADY

take my filter off and compare it to the new filter. Both are Purolator filters, but the old one was maybe 60% the width of the new one. Apparently they were both threaded the same, but I find it strange that two different shops would have different recommended Purolator filters for my car. Very strange, and even tho Goodyear didn't do anything wrong (maybe Sears didn't do anything wrong, either, because multiple filters will work on my vehicle??).... but letting someone else change my oil, even for free labor and a quart of free windshield wiper fluid.. it just makes me a little nervous.

Soo... lesson learned, but how do I know I'm treating a high mileage engine properly or not??? Without paying folks for an oil analysis of my car, preferably. What are the "need to know" tips you'd tell your son or grandson in order to keeping his Volvo running to a million miles???

 

[friendly_jacek]

Welcome to BITOG.

10W30 is certainly appropriate in your climate.

As for the leaks, why not replacing the seals/gaskets?

In the meantime, one of the High Mileage oils wouldn't hurt.

 

[default]

Run a 10w40 high mileage oil, anything will do.

 

[nitehawk55]

You are actually hearing "dry bearing noise" in your engine ?.....amazing .

 

[spag1]

High mileage engines can be very fickle at times. I have had good luck running Quaker state defy in my worn out 302 V8 (1960 Ford pickup ) It didn't fix the leaks and burning completely, but it definitely stunted the consumption.

 

[spag1]

I bought my Durango with 115k miles on it and blew the motor up at 155k. I did everything right in terms of preventive maintenance, but turns out the previous owner didn't change the oil enough and eventually a ring had broke and clogged #5 crank main bearing oil galley which basically spun the bearing.

 

[spag1]

Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
You are actually hearing "dry bearing noise" in your engine ?.....amazing .

I heard what a dry bearing sounded like once in an engine. It made that sound for 3 seconds before it grenaded itself. But in an engine that's still functioning? Well not yet.

 

[PandaBear]

Usually, when my car reaches high mileage, the last thing I'm really that concerned about is small oil leaks. I would usually replace the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket, as well as exhaust gasket if they are leaking, but that's about it. I use every oil on sale and have no problem so far.

 

[grndslm]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
10W30 is certainly appropriate in your climate.
It most certainly is. But no shops actually stock 10w30 in bulk for some reason. Even during winter, 10w30 is more than acceptable. I think are 19 days of the year that it's below freezing here, and even those days are just for a couple hours in the morning.

It's my belief that cars here would get much better "wear protection" with 10w30 over 5w30... but what do I know? I've never cared to pay for an oil analysis when there are other people out there who have done more research than I ever knew was possible.

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
As for the leaks, why not replacing the seals/gaskets?
Pretty much because the cars I'm buying are so dirt cheap, that they're meant to be driven for a couple years and then sold at a slight profit.... I'm not one to grow attached to vehicles. I bought a '96 BMW Z3 for $1800 w/ slipping trans.. did a transmission flush and sold it a couple years later for $3000, even tho I could have gotten twice that had I put a little more into it. I have a knack for finding cheap cars, and they sell quickly, too. But I'm less interested into holding onto one and tearing the thing apart. This Volvo, in particular, doesn't show any visible leaks from the engine that I could see just a few months back. Mostly trans fluid from one cv joint and a bunch of power steering fluid. It was burning off a quart every couple thousand, which probably wasn't too bad for 278k miles... and it appears that some makes it past the oil filler cap gasket... but, I'm not too worried about it so long as it's showing on the dipstick most of the time!!!

Long story, short.... these cars I'm dealing with are in pretty much pristine condition other than the high mileage, but I'm just not so attached that I want to drive them and sell/trade them at a loss. As long as the car rolls, it's worth $1,000 all day, $1,800 on a good day. Paid $1,200 for this Volvo... so I'm pretty sure I'll be able to make my money back, even tho my friend put ITS FIRST DENT in the hood when backing up into me & my mom hit a curb, totally damaging the suspension on the right side. Loved this car until a couple women came a long.

Partly why I've given up caring for it... But the entire reason for this thread is not my Volvo... but for the next high mileage vehicle car I get. In general, is high mileage oil really worth it? When is 15w40 too much for a passenger vehicle?? Is 10w40 usually enough?? Is 10w30 better than 5w30 because of less VIIs? Why don't any shops use 10w30, even???

And other "reasonable suggestions" that I have exampled in the OP. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say synthetic isn't worth it for a high mileage vehicle, but if 5w30 synthetic is really thicker than 10w30 or 10w40 dino.. then I'm all ears!!!

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
In the meantime, one of the High Mileage oils wouldn't hurt.
Are there no negatives? Are there verified positives posted here in the form of an oil analysis?

Originally Posted By: default
Run a 10w40 high mileage oil, anything will do.
Anything will do??? What will it do?? ... ANYTHING??

Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
You are actually hearing "dry bearing noise" in your engine ?.....amazing .
I can't be for certain, but it sounded similar to a dry wheel bearing that I had pressed into a hub one time. I suggested to the machine shop that they pack it with grease, but they told me they can't add any grease to a sealed bearing. "Can't or won't?" Had to replace that wheel bearing on day 1. This "low oil" engine noise sounded very similar, but not bone dry. Maybe 10-20% of the volume in that dry wheel bearing... but I could hear it. I'd guesstimate that there were at least 2.5 quarts in the engine when I started to hear the whine, maybe a quarter mile from our destination -- Waffle House. Got out and immediately checked oil level. Off the charts!! Let the car cool somewhat for 20 min. or so, then drove it as slow as possible not even another quarter mile to my house. Cut car off. Added the fresh quart of oil. Dipstick had a couple millimeters of oil on the bottom. Had to check twice to make sure my eyes didn't deceive me. By the time I made it to the stop sign on my street, the noise was completely gone. Then drove straight to drop the friends off and get the oil change.

Originally Posted By: spag1
High mileage engines can be very fickle at times.
For sure. This one pretty much throws half a quart away almost immediately, which may be coming thru the oil filler cap gasket. It used to stay half a quart shy for a month or two at a time, at least.

Originally Posted By: spag1
I have had good luck running Quaker state defy in my worn out 302 V8 (1960 Ford pickup ) It didn't fix the leaks and burning completely, but it definitely stunted the consumption.
Quaker state is about the only brand I _don't_ trust, mostly because I know someone whose motor blew up on warranty, and when they tore it down, the inside looked like it was being lubricated with wax. Probly the owner's fault, but "Don't buy Quaker State!" is something that's kinda engrained into my brain now.

It's also hard for me to see the value in a semi-synthetic, as well. Just makes more sense to me to pick a side, if ya know what I mean.

Conventional or Synthetic. Which one do you really want??

 

[mongo161]

IMO...Easy Fix....if the shops that you do business with for the oil change don't carry 10w30, 40, why not bring your own oil????

IMO....Just watch to make sure that they put your oil in the sump....."Slight of Hand" is something to watch out for at the quick lube.....if they give you any grief....take your business elsewhere.

 

[Jay1981]

The best advice I can give you is "if you want it done right, do it yourself" If at all possible, change your own oil. If I were you, I would go with a high mileage oil such as Valvoline Maxlife and a 5 qt jug at walmart is reasonably priced ($17.xx) and is only about $2 more than VWB. I have had success with it slowing leaks on several vehicles. Use 10w30 or if its using a lot of oil maybe 10w40. Use a good filter, you may want to read up on them in the filter section. I think i'm going to switch to motorcraft filters on my vehicles which seem to be highly regarded on here. Other than that, check the oil level often.

 

[bmwtechguy]

Maxlife is a great oil. Has performance similar to a full syn and will help slow leaks and consumption. I like the 10W-40 for high mileage cars. Have used this oil successfully foe years.

 

[Ausfahrt]

I know that others will disagree with me but with high mileage cars in a southern climate you can't go wrong with Castrol GTX 20w-50. I've been using it for decades.

 

[Danh]

Given your investment in these cars I wouldn't overthink the oil choice too much. As others have noted, HM oils like MaxLife are inexpensive, readily available (even in 10w-30/40) and good and could help if you have oil consumption or leaks. They also seem to clean quite well.

One caution: as I have found, HM oils don't help leaks from RTV seals, which are pretty common. As a matter of fact, because most HM oils are synthetic blends, they may actually leak more through compromised RTV seals than a conventional oil. In that case, just use a good 10W-30 like Pennzoil or Mobil Super, which are $ 14-16 for 5 quarts at WalMart.

Given the miles these cars have, their limited future lifespan, uncertain history and cost, using a full synthetic seems like overkill.

 

[DrDusty86]

My advise..well what I do to with my car. It has over 6100 hours on it and 215k on the odo. I change the oil with RP synthetic between 5k-7k most of the time and redline it every time I take it out. STILL RUNS GREAT

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: bigdreama
I know that others will disagree with me but with high mileage cars in a southern climate you can't go wrong with Castrol GTX 20w-50. I've been using it for decades.


Nothing wrong with that, especially when racing, but IMHO, 15W40 would be better for street use.

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

cheap dino and filter is aaalllll you need 5W-30. if it loses more than a qt every 2K go to a cheap 40 or a HM oil

and a bottle of Regane in the fuel might pay itself back in better mpg, and PCV valves are cheap, fuel filters too if you can get under there

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: bigdreama
I know that others will disagree with me but with high mileage cars in a southern climate you can't go wrong with Castrol GTX 20w-50. I've been using it for decades.


^^That was going to be my suggestion as well. Drove my Olds Trofeo on GTX 20W50 till almost 300,000 miles. Ran like a dream,and never used or leaked a drop of oil. Sold it eventually to buy a 3000GT.